My Redline
#221
06-14-2015, 08:21 PM
Hey, I found some tuning info earlier today on a ranger forum... The guy is building a M90 supercharged 4.0 OHV, and if his calculations are right, he will have by far the highest powered one in the Ranger community..
Originally Posted by jd4242;RangerPowerSports
As pointed out you can judge boost levels, its rpms..also typically a m90 anything over 6 lbs needs a cooler and around 9psi on m112..
I ran a gm m90 that has been cnc ported/polished with a single 1" incooler from zzzperformace..with a 2.7 pulley and stock 6" crank i was making around 10 psi on my other built motor.i then put it on a stock motor to fit the hood and firewall adjustments and it made 12 psi,same pulleys..my after charger and cooler temps peaked around 140ish..my tuner wanted to keep it under 160 to be efficient and make good hp numbers. .i roughly mad about 11 hp per pound of boost..that is about typical (10-14 hp per pound) for any roots sc with iat under 160*..keep that number in back of your mind because whatever you make NA you can use that equation. .
I know will be running a larger crank pulley and same 2.7 charger pulley but with a MUCH MUCH different motor..i also have added a 2nd 1" cooler so now have 2" of ic..i plan to get around 15 psi with that setup and maintain my iat under 160*..by pulley math im about at the max rpms of that blower but its efficiency graph has changed because of work done to it but still has a max rpms..
I ran a gm m90 that has been cnc ported/polished with a single 1" incooler from zzzperformace..with a 2.7 pulley and stock 6" crank i was making around 10 psi on my other built motor.i then put it on a stock motor to fit the hood and firewall adjustments and it made 12 psi,same pulleys..my after charger and cooler temps peaked around 140ish..my tuner wanted to keep it under 160 to be efficient and make good hp numbers. .i roughly mad about 11 hp per pound of boost..that is about typical (10-14 hp per pound) for any roots sc with iat under 160*..keep that number in back of your mind because whatever you make NA you can use that equation. .
I know will be running a larger crank pulley and same 2.7 charger pulley but with a MUCH MUCH different motor..i also have added a 2nd 1" cooler so now have 2" of ic..i plan to get around 15 psi with that setup and maintain my iat under 160*..by pulley math im about at the max rpms of that blower but its efficiency graph has changed because of work done to it but still has a max rpms..
#222
06-14-2015, 10:51 PM
from lets dwelve into the boost solenoid - Page 2 - Saturn ION RedLine Forums , post #20 I posted earlier.
Supposedly straight out of the Saturn FSM.
Guess I didn't read i all the way through and digest it, nor remember your intercooler woes were not solved.
It probably looks at the diff in the IATs and if there is none or it is too small a diff, it assumes intercooler is hosed, and inhibits boostification.
Your boost solenoid may also be an issue. Gotta do the battery test or you won't know if it is moving when commanded to do so--or if it's closing all the way (blow while battery attached)
Supposedly straight out of the Saturn FSM.
Guess I didn't read i all the way through and digest it, nor remember your intercooler woes were not solved.
It probably looks at the diff in the IATs and if there is none or it is too small a diff, it assumes intercooler is hosed, and inhibits boostification.
Your boost solenoid may also be an issue. Gotta do the battery test or you won't know if it is moving when commanded to do so--or if it's closing all the way (blow while battery attached)
#223
06-15-2015, 01:10 AM
Intercooler rebuilt tonight.
IAT2s didn't see over 115, and were as low as 93.
Almost had a heart attack when I saw some knock retard 1&2...Then realized redlines/cobalts don't follow those parameters. Just 3.
My a/c stopped working. Leaking all over the place. Only checked it because my buddy pointed out it was leaking.
Saw 10psi of boost tonight, too. WOOHOO! Almost there!
Need to figure out where the a/c is leaking from. Hopefully don't have to replace it, because I really don't feel like it...not that I even use it.
Maybe soon this crap will come together.
IAT2s didn't see over 115, and were as low as 93.
Almost had a heart attack when I saw some knock retard 1&2...Then realized redlines/cobalts don't follow those parameters. Just 3.
My a/c stopped working. Leaking all over the place. Only checked it because my buddy pointed out it was leaking.
Saw 10psi of boost tonight, too. WOOHOO! Almost there!
Need to figure out where the a/c is leaking from. Hopefully don't have to replace it, because I really don't feel like it...not that I even use it.
Maybe soon this crap will come together.
#224
06-15-2015, 09:35 AM
Welcome back to Boostland!
Interested to know how your buddy knew it was leaking unless he was going by air temp in the car.
Before you do anything else, take the valve covers off the high and low ports and put some spit in the valve and watch for bubbles. (Spit conserves water) The schraeder valves sometimes leak. Actually they are more prone to leak AFTER you use them (for measurements) if they've not been exercised before as they get "gunked up internally" and when you use them they don't always seal correctly afterward. Then you have to go out and either loan a tool or buy a schraeder valve repair tool which lets you replace the core of the valve--or have a shop do it.
After that of course comes dye+refrig in a can+ UV light. That dye stains skin for DAYS. I will guess o rings at compressor because I'm feeling optimistic this morning (with all that boost n all.).
Interested to know how your buddy knew it was leaking unless he was going by air temp in the car.
Before you do anything else, take the valve covers off the high and low ports and put some spit in the valve and watch for bubbles. (Spit conserves water) The schraeder valves sometimes leak. Actually they are more prone to leak AFTER you use them (for measurements) if they've not been exercised before as they get "gunked up internally" and when you use them they don't always seal correctly afterward. Then you have to go out and either loan a tool or buy a schraeder valve repair tool which lets you replace the core of the valve--or have a shop do it.
After that of course comes dye+refrig in a can+ UV light. That dye stains skin for DAYS. I will guess o rings at compressor because I'm feeling optimistic this morning (with all that boost n all.).
#227
06-16-2015, 10:21 AM
Of course not -- it was tuned w a dead intercooler and therefore the boost disabled.
Now that boost is enabled, have you tried swapping the throttlebody or is the swapped one on there now?
Now that boost is enabled, have you tried swapping the throttlebody or is the swapped one on there now?
#229
06-19-2015, 01:55 PM
A/C out. Pretty sure I cracked it bottoming out.
Blower is leaking oil now.
New solenoid, still no boost. Just more consistent negative numbers.
Im done. Car is being moved to the backyard. I am sick of looking at it.
Blower is leaking oil now.
New solenoid, still no boost. Just more consistent negative numbers.
Im done. Car is being moved to the backyard. I am sick of looking at it.
#230
06-19-2015, 04:31 PM
You proved it all worked!
The blower oil leak prob means a bad seal or possibly bearing which would probably be a boost leak too if it is not a sealed bearing.
what are your iat1 and 2s? As discussed before, the PCM may be shutting off the boost for protective reasons.
Sorry buddy, you don't get to throw in the towel just yet.
You seem to constantly be 1 step away from success; the challenge just keeps moving around.
Take a break
Don't move the car
_______________________
I am committed to assisting you in restoring full boost to your RL.
I am learning as fast as I can about the computer logic and theory of operation
I will continue to do so until it functions as designed.
Don't care if I stay up half the night every night to do it. Hell it's after 3AM right now....
Let me know when you're ready to work on it again.....
Last edited by derf; 06-20-2015 at 02:17 AM.