THe following MAY be of help for testing the boost solenoid and looks like it takes less than 5 min.

 

That is a good video. I don't have those clips, so im gonna try blowing through it and see. That seems easier than trial and error drives.
Thanks man

 

I try.

 

Thank you, sir!
So, somewhat good news. Looks like I am getting 2 more wrecked Ions. Yes, I am buying them. But it takes money to make money, right? If I make the money off these 2 like I did the other one I have, ill be able to start phase 2 of my build. After the boost issue of course.

 

Let the trolling begin.
I pulled off the solenoid, I can blow through it, but its as easy as stated in the video.


I guess its time to do the bypass mod.

 

I can't believe you haven't tried the bypass mod yet... It's as simple as pulling off the hose and stomping the throttle while in gear...

 

Boost solenoid

Did you do the full testing with the battery to see if the thing closes or not? You didn't state the results of the battery test which is just as critical as the blow test.
I'm guessing it does not close.

The other test is to ensure you have V at the boost solenoid when NOT at idle. I'll guess it's 0V DC at idle and something non zero away from idle. If there is no current to command it closed, there will no boost.
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Bypass valve

Also -- maybe the spring in the bypass valve is wrecked/missing and the bypass valve is simply NEVER closing so there will also be no boost

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Intercooler pump failure

Went back and read that Theory of operation post. The PCM will disable boost if an intercooler pump failure is detected. We know that's an issue for you. Has it been rebuilt?

No intercooler pump no boost.

IAT2 too high, no boost.

what was your throttle body code by the way?

 

So how does the built up pressure get equalized when you pull up to a stop light and the car is at idle? And what's the upper boost limit controlled by/limited by if you take the PCM out of the equation? I think the answer is"something's gotta give. Gaskets? Valves? Rings? The SC because it is working 100% of the time?

It's great for diagnostic purposes, but IMHO, you're exceeding the pressure limit in a system designed to withstand a particular upper pressure limit. Is it ok to go a bit above -- probably. Is okay to indefinitely trap all that pressure (boost) with no straightforward way to bleed it off...don't think so.

Find another way to jack up the boost.

and that tire chirp while switching gears---the one that corresponds to sudden stresses being exerted on the internals of your engine....is that a long term thing you want to do to your engine?

you make the call.........

Bones -- not ripping on you --- ripping on the mod

 

From cobaltss.net

Some people on their Ion Redline tried a modification (http://saturnionredline.com/mods.htm) which is clearly written that it is not recommended. This modification is to remove the vacuum hose that enters the vacuum bypass solenoid and to plug it. The results is that the bypass valve (butterfly) stays ALWAYS closed. Even if it can result in a little higher boost (because you are sure that the PCM cannot control the bypass valve anymore), it's not the desired result. As written before, the main purpose of the bypass valve to keep opened when cruising so it avoids overheating the air entering the blower. It helps also for the gas mileage. It also release the pressure in the intake manifold when you shut off the throttle.

 

This is a pain to reply to from my phone, so if I miss anything, I apologize.


I did hours worth of research about the valve and the solenoid today. I agree that the bypass "mod" is good for testing, but not just to do. I did not use a battery because I don't have clamps like that. My dad might, but I didn't have time to drove the half hour to his place before work.
I did try blowing through it though, and it wasn't as smooth as it should be as per the video. It seemed like it was half opened or clogged. Now, the bypass valve itself, I have an extra one I tried, and no difference. So the solenoid is making sense.
I read that same post on cobaltss.net earlier today. A lot of good points were brought up. Also reading through, I think I might look into a manual boost controller. I didnt realize how cheap they are, and how much they could realm help.
Intercooler- I have not. My buddy and I have been on opposite schedules. Kinda makes me want to just learning how to do it myself. From what he said, they cost pennies to "rebuild". I haven't read though that a bad intercooler could kill boost. Yea, my iat2s are high, but not dangerous high.
I dont remember the throttle body code, but it was for the circuit being to high.