I need to go to the junk yard anyway. May be worth a shot.

 

Would be far better than you selling your car... Besides, if you sell it, how would you keep up with me on the tail of the dragon? We know Topanga won't do it...

 

The 4k would go to a cts silly

 

Anyway, we need to get your Redline fixed... You know you would regret selling it...

 

Think im gonna go to the junk yard in the morning.
Hopefully score some parts. If I can find a few ls4s, I can sell em for some extra cash then.
Maybe if the TB is messed up, that's why im not building boost.

 

That could be... Let me ask, did you check your boost control solenoid?

 

yep.
As you see, theres a vacuum leak.
I will double check it though.

 

umm, NO, we're not gonna let you throw the towel in.
Between you n bones, I have re-learned the meaning of perseverance (on a personal level). There is an explanation for your woes -- you are too close to it right now to see it and being pissed off doesn't help. Let us help you.

 

Guys, I've spent close to $200 just trying to fix this leak. I can live with the idle if it wasn't affecting my boost so bad.
Guess I'm checking my boost solenoid again. I just wanna boost. Starting to watch eBay for hpt as well.

 

Is there any way to monitor the position of the bypass valve or boost solenoid valve (other than what the PCM has told it to do?) It seems like it wouldn't throw a code if this was messed up, as it did not for bones for the boost solenoid.

So you get almost no boost even if you do what bones did and leave that line to the actuator at atmospheric pressure? And does doing so change your boost reading to be less negative?

Semi-educated guesses:
1) Bypass valve is physically stuck part of the way closed or the actuator is faulty. This would lead to the ability to build some boost, but the rest would be bleeding off since the plate being partially open would just recirc boost to the S/C. But wait -- it can only bleed off as designed if the boost solenoid valve is open at the same time. Which means in order for there to be a boost leak there, both the boost solenoid and the bypass valve/actuator would have to be acting up/malfunctioning. Once the boost solenoid goes, you don't know whether the bypass is functioning correctly other than it should stay closed completely like bones'. The only thing that would keep that bypass valve open is it's spring or the actuator telling it to -- but that's controlled by vacuum so if it's disconnected from the boost solenoid, it should be shut. So if it does not close completely with no vac applied from anywhere, I'd say it's defective or gummed up or malfunctioning, etc.

2) simpler explanation: The fuse for the boost solenoid is blown. There IS a fuse for it. It is a normally OPEN valve, so if the fuse goes, the boost solenoid is open 100% of the time. Thus any goofiness with the bypass valve not closing all the way WILL lead to immediate boost bleedoff.

Said the guy who learned how a supercharger worked last week

5) You have referred to the issue as a vac leak. However, it is strong vac at idle that holds the bypass plate open. If you had that severe a vacuum leak, the bypass valve would not stay open at idle and you'd be building boost at idle all things considered, no?