Someone already put easy to see timing marks on the gears. It appears to be one tooth off when the crank is at tdc. They already got the parts, I'm just going for it. If it turns out it has valve damage, which I doubt as it hasn't made the horrible noises that go with that, I'll get heads at the junkyard and reseat the valves.
my impact claims 900 ft/lb and seems to be functioning properly. A youtube vid from one guy couldn't get the nut off with a 3/4 drive gun. So apparently I'm not the only one.
I will try the engine turning method and see what happens.

 

Advertised and real life are two separate things.
Just like gigabit per sec transfer rates from your router to your phone. With 802.11 AC, it's not physically possible when you account for different types of losses. 866 MB per sec is the max you will see in real life. But it's advertised as a gig per second.

The advertised breakaway torque is probably determined with a well lubricated rust-free bolt or not that has been mega tightened and determined to be say 600 or 800 ft lb although I don't know what you would measure it with to determine that. Obviously the equivalent of a torque wrench with a different design. My point is a lot of things are advertised based on theoretical and not real life stuff. If it is fused on by rust, you're going to have a hard time rotationally loosening it no matter what you use. I suppose you could heat it up but there are always risks with that.

Remember when you do the breaker bar on the ground that the weakest part of that setup is the joint holding the extension on to the breaker bar.

Take the fuse out of the fuel injectors circuit or pull all the wires to the plugs so you don't accidentally start the car in which case you will most certainly wish you hadn't

All you need to do is bump the starter. And make sure you use a 6 pt. That is one fastener on this vehicle you do not want to round the head off of

 

Used a 6 point. First choice every time. And the weakest point is the joint between the breaker handle and the square that joins the socket. I have broken more of these than sockets or extensions.
I had already removed all the coils and the plugs under them so I could set the enginge to tdc without pressure.
it hit a few times then I heard the bolt creak, after which it madeca lesser sound and then the engine started to turn over. Let the key go at that point. Bolt came out with hand turning at that point.

Btw, I am a retired motorcycle mechanic. Just not familiar with honda car engines. 😁
i do appreciate your your advice.

 

You need to get yourself some good tools.

 

So that didn't work. And it's not a fuel problem. Tomorrow I will do a compression test. Wish I'd started there. If it has compression I'll have to buy a spark tester that can do recessed plugs. None of my local part stores have one to loan. The test I did on the 2 coils was a cobbled iffy system so I can't be sure.

 

It's easy to check for spark. Remove a plug, reattach the plug wire, ground the plug and have someone crank the engine over. You should see a spark jump the gap on the plug. That spark needs to be a blue/white color. If it's red or orange, you should probably consider changing the coil or look for a bad ground connection.

 

It should be a valid indication of spark or lack thereof if you ground it directly to the block, but if you ground it to any other ground and the spark is weaker, I think that was what Rube was getting at. Ground should be ground should be ground and if you do it to anywhere besides the block and get a weaker spark, then you may have ground issues elsewhere.

 

That's why we're friends, derf. YOU get me! LOL

 

This is a different way of load testing ground circuits. If we have good connection to any of the grounds you should have good volts. A meter is a bit more accurate but we used to use a headlamp and you could see the difference in intensity on a bad ground. This was old school with cars before they had computers. Now even a little resistance can throw off modules so a meter is needed today.

 

Old school is better than this tech nonsense. Tried to do a compression test today but the tester the parts store gave me has damaged threads (teach me to inspect a tool first) so a good 45 minutes trying to get the lower adapter out of the hole and then gotta take the tool back. Went ahead and metered the coil connections. Full voltage on end and center wire. So its getting power. End wire to end wire was 8.05 - 8.07 on all of them.
why does it have 3 wires on each coil?
I'll do the old-school coil test tomorrow. I will test each one, one at a time since they are already out.
Any other suggestions?