Nothing. But I'm going back over there so I will double check it.

Edit.the light only comes on when all the dash lights come on as it first gets power. After that it stays off. Car won't even try to start. Just cranks over and over.

 

I'm thinking we can rule out the security system as being a soul culprit of keeping the engine from running / starting. If it was part of this problem, the security light would turn on and stay on to indicate the security system has been triggered.

No I have to go research that other code. Have you tried clearing and rereading the codes at any point? Reread the codes, write them down, then clear them. The next time you do get the car to start, please read the codes while the service engine light is on and the vehicle is drivable

 

Was the check engine / service engine soon light illuminated when the vehicle was last being driven?

 

Yes and still is. It was still on after the codes were cleared. I haven't found the turn it of setting on the code reader I am using.

 

If it is on, codes are still present. Do you have a code scanner or a code reader? A code reader will only read codes. It cannot clear them. If your device has a clear code option, but then it is a code scanner.

There are some codes that are going to immediately set again depending on the circumstances. If you read them right now, which ones that show up? You need a code scanner to fully diagnose and clear diagnostic codes

 

Will have what is advertised as a reader/scanner tool on friday. Says it can do anything I need including turning off the check engine. Will touch base after.

 

Tool is delayed in the postal service. Had a thought and tested 2 of the coils. The first and second on the front from the passenger side. No spark from either. I am figuring none of them are working as it doesn't try to fire up. My thought is that they are not getting the signal to discharge or no power. Have to find my multimeter and do some testing.

 

After speaking to the owners they mentioned a slight water leak. It's coming from behind the timing cover. Opened the front top cover to find the belt is cracked and worn. Got a full kit water pump idler tensioner etc. Figured if I go in I'll just do it all qhile I'm after the camshaft sensor.
I just snapped the end off of a 1/2 inch extension using an 8 ft pipe to extend my breaker bar handle and still can't get the nut off the crankahaft pully. I tried an impact gun first. Is there some trick to it or am I just unlucky?

 

Many people put a six point deep socket over the bolt, then hook up a breaker bar, angle the handle towards the ground, and place the and on the ground so that when you crank the engine very very very briefly, the ground holds the breakup bar in place while the engine rotates clockwise. The bar can't go anywhere so the rotational force of the engine loosens the bolt.

I don't do this.

I just have a honking powerful cordless impact gun.

Respect the limit of your tools. If they can't stand up to what you are doing, either you are asking too much or you need higher quality tools.

That bolt has probably at least 200 ft lb of torque on it.

 

If your timing belt is cracked, The engine may be out of time and there may be valve damage. I think you want to do a compression test before you sync all that money and time into the other parts.

And never assume the other coils have no spark just because two of them don't. The only diagnostic information you should use is the information you capture.