How did you test for fire and fuel? Also I would disconnect the air temp sensor and check the wires. If there are three wires one should be 5 volts, one should be ground and one is signal return to the pcm.

 

Per Andy, ONE of the three wires should be 5 V. If TWO of the wires are 5V. then the 5V input is shorted to the response wire going to the ECM --which sees 5V and throws a code because that high a V is out of the defined normal range for that sensor.

Is this an IAT built into the ducting or an IAT that is integrated into a MAF that is inline with the intake ducting? Traditionally, an incorrect IAT reading will not skew the air/fuel mix too much at startup, as most Saturns key off the ECTS for operating temp measurements for the air/fuel mix at a given temperature.

I am thoroughly unfamiliar with the Honda V6 and how it uses the sensor info available to it. But if the V reading to the ECM is out o bounds high, that is the equivalent of almost zero resistance of the temp sensing element, which means WAY WAY HOT HOT HOT. If the ECM IS depending on this sensor reading and the rest of the MAF info, it is telling the ECM that the engine is really hot and the Air fuel mix will be set very lean to account for that. Possibly lean enough to not start a cold engine.

If your scanner can read live data, read the PID's for engine coolant temp and the IAT as the ECM sees it with key on, engine off. I suspect the IAT reading will be impossibly high---and in your situation, that can only really happen if the +5V supply is shorted to the ECM return wire.

 

Try a little starting fluid, just a little. I used sensor trickers on my Metro to get the car in closed loop quicker. With the air intake temp set to 100 degrees and the coolant temp sensors set to 200 degrees the car would not cold start. I also repaired a late 90s Chrysler v-8 product that had the coolant temp sensor fail in range, about 1/4 gauge, and it would not cold start without starting fluid.

 

Took the car to a mechanic. He says that the engine has jumped time. Is this a non interference engine? Will jumping time necessarily mean that the valves are bent or could it still be repairable. Haven't heard back from the mechanic as to his opinion

 

Interference.

If you've been cranking it, it's a mess as many of the valves will have been mashed if the timing chain/belt is still attached.
He prob found 0 compression across all the cylinders and since there is no sign of oil in the coolant, not a head gasket. If 0 compression across all cyls, at least one bent valve per cyl -- and that's enough (one too many)

Andy??

What's the actual explanation -- if there is one?

 

Honda 3.5 is a j35a3 engine used in the Saturn Vue from 2004 to 2007. It is a timing belt interference engine with a belt replacement due at 90,000 miles. Maybe the Vue wrecked when the engine quit while running down the road and the timing belt broke. Loss of power brakes can really upset some people if they are not prepared. The engine is probably as expensive to fix as a 3.0 used in the earlier Vue and the L series.

 

It'll probably cost your more to repair it than you can find a nice, used Saturn for on the internet. I see them all over the place for sale around Florida. Personally, I would't touch a Vue, but that's just my opinion. I like the S series and L series.

 

I think you are correct in assuming this engine is not worth repairing. I haven't heard a definitive answer from the mechanic yet but I am sure this will be the case. I was very interested in the theory that the belt broke while driving. This would explain a lot since I just couldn't come up with a reason why it was running during the wreck and then broke. The timing belt breaking and causing the accident would explain a lot. Frankly never consider that.

 

I am a professional mechanic and when I had my retail repair shop I was always busy. It was my job to educate my customers about their car’s repair needs. It is way more than oil changes and tire rotations. It is helping them understand future upcoming maintenance and the costs involved to have a reliable car. There are people that buy new cars every few years and never touch them and that is their plan.

Buying a used car with no repair history is truly a risk. You need to be willing to bring the maintenance up to date like it never happened. Almost all timing belt cars near 100,000 miles are a risk without proof of maintenance.

 

Ditto what Andy said. And it's getting harder and harder to find an engine WITHOUT a timing belt nowadays. Personally, I think that sucks. Bring back the timing CHAINS.