Saturn S Series Sedan SL, SL1, and SL2

Need tips for cv install.

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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 02:45 PM
  #11  
grcauto8453's Avatar
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You just need to pull it and replace it. Basic tools are needed. Here's the manual. I'd link to your if I knew what car you had.

https://charm.li/Saturn/

 
Old Apr 7, 2025 | 02:31 PM
  #12  
Rootmazur's Avatar
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Home >> Saturn >> 1995 >> Sedan L4-1.9L SOHC VIN 8 >> Repair and Diagnosis >> Transmission and Drivetrain >> Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints >> Axle Shaft Assembly >> Service and Repair >> Front Wheel Drive (FWD) >> Remove and Install

It appears you will have to separate the control arm ball joint stud and the tie rod ball joint stud from the knuckle. As some other users mentioned, separating these must be done carefully to avoid damaging the ball joint boots and seals. When replacing the control arms I used the scissors-type tool that Harbor freight sells (Lower Ball joint Separator) on the lower control arm ball joint, but even that tool wasn't perfect for the job, and pried on the boot seal a little bit. However, it did work. When the ball joint studs finally separate from the knuckle it sounds like a frickin' gunshot.

On another job, when I had to separate the tie rod ball joint, i simply used a hammer to shock the knuckle. However, there is a c-clamp type tool for that ball joint too, which looks something like this one on amazon
OEMTOOLS 27016 OEMTOOLS 27016
. However, I can't vouch as to whether that specific one will work for the tie rod ball joint on your Saturn.

There are also kits like this one Handor Ball Joint Separator, 5-in-1 Mechanic Tools, Pitman Arm Puller, Tie Rod End Removal Tool Set for Front End Service, Splitter Removal Kit
But usually, when you buy a kit like this, some of the included tools will be useless for your needs. I am linking this to show you what the tools look like.

The only tool I'm sure that works from first hand experience is the one from Harbor Freight (for the lower control arm ball joint). That was for my 97 SL1. Personally, i wouldn't try to shock the knuckle with a hammer on the control arm ball joint because it is very easy to miss the knuckle and damage something. Better of using the proper tool for the lower control arm ball joint. The knuckle at the tie rod ball joint is a lot easier to target with a hammer without damaging anything.
 

Last edited by Rootmazur; Apr 9, 2025 at 04:29 PM.
Old Apr 7, 2025 | 08:03 PM
  #13  
derf's Avatar
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Thank you for the advice.
I don't believe there is an upper ball joint in this suspension.

I have pounded the crap out of the knuckle with the ball joint partially separated. There is a magic angle so to speak between the post coming out of the ball joint and the hole in which it seats in the knuckle. I can't tell you what it is because mine always randomly fall out on the 37th mini sledge hit. I don't believe richpin uses anything but a crowbar pry them apart. I can vouch for the fact that a fork tool, unless used very very very very precisely, will tear the grease cups. If you are replacing control arms, then this doesn't matter, but if you are trying to reuse them it makes all the difference. Just keep your body and your swinging arm aligned with the target. The problem happens when you are swinging off to the side of where you are located or above or below.
 
Old Apr 7, 2025 | 10:11 PM
  #14  
Rootmazur's Avatar
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Originally Posted by derf
Thank you for the advice.
I don't believe there is an upper ball joint in this suspension....
You're right. These MacPhereson suspension only have a lower control arm. What I should have said instead of the "upper" ball joint is the "tie rod" ball joint. Using precise language is important!
 
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