This clown has an exhaust leak and the cat con is probably starting to come apart on him. Pisses me off when people come here asking for help and never reply.

 

I had replied several times, and have an update as to what happened with the car.

After continuing to drive it with the knocking, the driver side rear brake drum started rapidly leaking break fluid; which would require the brake drum to be replaced. At about the same time, the car started having fits where it would have a greatly increased loss of acceleration and a check engine code.
Infamous Code P0301.

The loss of power and check engine light both happen at the same time, when increasing the load on the engine (up hill, or accelerating quickly).
My mechanic ran a compression test on each cylinder, and sure enough cylinder #1 has a significantly lower pressure than the remaining 3 cylinders, which are working fine. That first cylinder was always the noisy one before.

With that verdict, unless somehow my mechanic and I are off-base and this is some easy fix, I'm finally selling the car as I do not have money to continue to put into it; nor to repair the engine for potentially another part to need replacing in the following months. I will be posted here in the forums hoping maybe someone can get some value out of it.

Thanks for the help previously, I did really appreciate it. I am not enough of a car person to keep up with all of the specifics asked about nor can I repair this engine or replace it myself.

 

Didn't mean to sound so rude, Jon. I apologize as I never saw any of your replies. You mechanic is wrong in telling you that you need to replace the brake drum. A simple wheel cylinder replacement and brake shoes will take care of your brake issue. Of course, I always replace wheel cylinders and shoes in pairs. The drum can be cleaned. As far as the low compression on # 1, it's a common problem on the 1.9 engines. It's usually a blown intake manifold gasket and NOT a problem with valve train or rings. I see you have a lot of miles on this engine, but if you really like the car and want to keep it, you can do the repairs yourself for less than two hundred bucks. If I lived close to where you are, I'd buy it from you and fix it and drive it another 200,000. Good luck with the sale if you don't fix it. I think it'll go pretty quickly.

 

Thanks, Charlie. No hard feelings.

As for fixing it for $200... $200 and how much time? and tools needed so that I could perform the needed repairs? I don't have a garage I can use as a shop, and it's currently below freezing outside. I'm not skilled in car repair at all (but ask me to make a new web forum like this and I can do it in an hour). How realistic is fixing both problems (P0301 and brake leaking/pad replacement) for $200 really? (honestly asking, I have no idea). I haven't really had idling problems ever, which seem to be the reasons most people on youtube replace the intake manifold gasket.

 

Wheel cylinders and rear shoes cost me under $50 last time I owned an S series, and they could be changed with basic hand tools, in an hour or two...

The Intake gasket also doesn't cost much, but I've never done one of those, never had that issue, but I'm sure a set of basic tools(and a chiton repair manual) will get you through that repair...

 

Neither repair is that difficult, Jon. It's just a matter of being patient and taking your time. You'll also need some newspaper to put under each wheel as it WILL leak and stain your garage floor or driveway. I'd get some brake fluid and brake parts cleaner too. A Haynes manual can help you with these two simple jobs.

 

-Comments based on page one, I did not see nor read page 2-
O.K., my turn. I really can not make a value judgement from the audio. Sorry. Something is there. Lets assume for the moment your mechanics is right and it is a lifter. Assuming for the moment a temporary fix may or may not be beneficial I would try using a heavier weight oil such as a 10W40 or depending how cold it gets, if it is above freezing a 20W50 and see if that will get the lifter to shut up. It has been known to do that in the past. It can buy you time on what is at this point a questionable engine in an old car.
If you can get a replacement motor for the car and it is both economically feasible to spend upwards of $1500.oo to get one and get it in, there are some wonderful "STICKIES" some where at the top of the the threads for Saturn "s" series car that explain differences in engines and what fits what. A copy of that and a replacement engine to your mechanic might get it fixed with out causing you some heart burn.
Me, I do my own work. I can not suggest doing an engine change to some one who pretty much says he is not qualified to do one nor in the position to.
But if you can't do it, you gotta pay for it.

 

Hi, thanks for your reply. Can someone please explain how using a non-standard oil is a recommendation here? The standard is 5W-30 for my model.

I did some internet search to learn about the difference.
It is winter for me right now, and has been when the car was acting up (late fall). Why would a 10w40 be better in winter with an engine in this condition? That paragraph above makes me think it would do the opposite for me.

 

If it is winter = snow, ice, cold..etc, then 5W30 is prob best. For Winter.

Unc is a strong advocate of often using the heaviest weight oils that the viscosity vs temp charts indicate will provide appropriate lubrication -- in this case maximum lubrication-- at the temperatures the car will see.

I believe he is advocating a higher viscosity oil to better lubricate the lifter and thereby lessen the wear / unit time AND make it quieter when running.

I THINK Unc actually runs 20W50 in his SC1 ---but he lives in AZ or NM where it is nasty hot and he does not have to worry about colder temperatures and the viscosity increasing.
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Unc-- I filled in what I thought you would have filled in based on previous similar discussions. NOT trying to speak FOR you, only pass along your previously expressed sentiments.