Hupp, forgot to add you got 20 years on me and I had NO FUN taking apart the fuse system, plus 1 stuck and I fear most would have broken it trying to force it apart.
I used a heat gun and vibration from an engraver took break whiteys free!
I would not look forward to taking you're fuse system apart even if it came apart easy, but maybe you are a rubber band man?!
I'd not be a fan of jump feeding the fuel pump.
In an accident it could continue to run and literally "add fuel to the fire" just my 2 cents.

 

Thank you for the input , If it did cure my problem , I would put a safety switch that on impact would shut the fuel off. I guess I am looking for a simple fix,, but there may not be one.

 

Please visit that thread. Ignore the bull**** associated with the guy who ripped his dash apart. He was an idiot. Later down in the thread, someone explains how simple it is. Remove the cover and I think one bolt or screw.
The most annoying thing about the job is getting at the thing. It is probably easiest to lay a pillow across where the door closes on the bottom and lay across so that your head and arms can reach where you are working. No need to do the upside down thing on the driver's seat. That thread has pictures of things taken apart and is an awesome guide as to how to get to and diagnose this. Even if you were to try to bypass the distribution point, you would still want to run your switch through an unused fuse slot for safety reasons. So you would have to work down there anyway unless you did an inline fuse but all of that is not necessary. This is a not all that uncommon occurrence, especially with some of these cars having their fifth and 6th owners. Back in the day, it was usually a direct result of people tapping into that run for aftermarket stereos and such. One of those things no one had any idea about unless you already knew.
I have not driven my 95 very much in the last 10 years but I keep it moving at least every 2 weeks. I keep an older slow charger in there but do not use it much if I do not need to. I also took off the cover and inspected the back of the fuse box. I think it's F4 in mine but they are all in excellent condition. It's a one owner car.

It's unlikely that lower portion is melted to the upper. Usually the pin just melts all the plastic right around it and the wires either have the end burnt off or solder is heated up and it literally falls off. Depending on how bad it may not be, you may be able to touch it up with flux and solder or have someone do it for you if you are not as flexible as you once were. I say this because your dome light still works So it can't be completely trashed.

You have 30 years on me, and I'm sure have learned the virtues of patience. The other thing to look for is that the pin and the matching receptacle in the other half will make contact when the thing is put back together. The link talks about re springing The terminal which in this case is a fancy term for gently bending it back into shape in order to ensure contact.

You got this

 

I really want to fix it right, I am not in favor of cob jobs, As I am working out side , I will wait till it warms up a bit. I will find the thread you refer to so I can see. Thank you for your help.

 

Very good I will look also

 

Update, went back to make sure that I had power to the fuel pump. I did, so pulled the pump. Found the problem. See pic for what happened. The new pump had some kind of material, it looked like some kind of rubber when I put the new pump on last year and the car sat all summer in the Fl. heat. .For all the problems that gas with 10 % ethanol in it, it eats certain rubber. Looks like this is what happened to the bottom of the pump screen. Clogged it so it would not run. Wii order a new pump.

As you can see the pump inlet is clogged and pump screen.

 

While I am waiting for the new pump, I will use the old gas for cleaning future parts. The tank looks clean, but will clean just to make sure. I will put on a new fuel filter with the new pump also.

 

Well done Hupp!! Keep us posted
Hopefully you won't need to get into fuse system..........

 

Update, New fuel pump and fuel filter installed. With my hearing aids in, I herd the fuel pump running. Turned the key to the start, no start. Checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, good pressure. Engine will run when i spray fuel in the intake . So , the 1 thing I am missing is the fuel injectors not working. Where do I go from here?

 

I would think that the top of the injectors look similar to what your pump looked like. I have a set of noid lights that plug into the injector harness. I have a set because of the different plug configurations used by various manufacturers. I recommend that you purchase one noid light for your injector type and test each injector plug for injector pulse. The light will blink on and off if the computer is trying to fire the injector while cranking the engine.

You probably need four injectors and maybe a new fuel rail.