Hmmmff,

That fuel pump relay MUST have12 volts relative to chassis ground and in this case also one of the pins is ground, or. the fuel pump will never run. This circuit is hot 100% of the time so either the distribution from the low side of the IP batt fuse is damaged where it leads to fuel pump relay, or you are somehow not checking the right place on the fuel pump relay for the 12 volt.

If there is no voltage on the high side of the relay there can be no current flowing once the relay is tripped and completes the current path for the larger current to flow. Given that you have access 2 the back of the fuse panel inside, dig a Little deeper and figure out which terminals on the back correspond to the connections to the sockets for the fuel pump and relay. Replacing the BCM should have zero effect on whether or not there is 12 volts on the high side of the relay in the current path that feeds the fuel pump. Assuming I mentioned above, try measuring the upstream terminal relative to the ground terminals.

Upon further consideration, if that ground pin from the relay is no longer grounded, the relay can never be actuated because that is the ground that the BCM circuit closes in order to trigger the relay.
No ground, no relay, no relay no fuel pump.

For the fuel pump relay to not have 12 volts at it and the BCM to be bad all of a sudden at the exact same moment just doesn't make sense. You can even take a wire of sufficient gauge and jump the relay from the hot side to the low side just to see if the fuel pump runs. If it does, then you have isolated it to the BCM circuit closure not actually being closed either because the BCM is malfunctioning or because the ground for that circuit closure has been lifted. Please look for and find the 12 volts and which of the pins is ground in the process. Then you know which to jumper to run the fuel pump full time as a test. And inspect the back of the fuse panel very carefully in row f pins 2 3 4 and 5. There is a known melting issue with the pins that have the fuel pump coming off of them.

The reason I have supplied multiple PIN numbers is because the configuration changed slightly between 1st 2nd and 3rd generation S cars and I don't remember off the top of my head which is which but if you surf and search for it, you will find it.

 

Ok, trying to do the best I can with the little skill I have. I never tested voltage on the FB relay in the ipjb. I did swap the FP relay with the Blower relay (same part #) and the Blower worked fine with either relay. So, wiring. Can I just pull the PF relay and test V and ground? I read some thread somewhere where they jumped the FP relay to force it on which is what you're suggesting. It can't be that difficult. I'll try to figure this out, and do what you ask, thanks Derf.

 

Right on, sir. Just remember to use insulated wire and not a piece of bare copper that you would use to ground an outlet in your house. It's a good healthy current going through there and you will get likely get zapped. Also, remove the battery before you put jumper in place so you don't get zapped or accidentally short something else. Just remember oh, you did not want to connect the 12 volt terminal directly to the ground terminal because that makes a dead short. He want to find the 12 volt signal find the ground. The other two signals should be:

something greater than 0 for the terminal that is activating the switch. Probably 5 volts coming from the BCM. The 4th terminal will be more or less floating around zero but not stable as it is the terminal that the current associated with the 12 volts runs through (after the relay closes) on its way to the actual fuel pump you want the jumper between the 12 volt signal and the last terminal I just described.

 

OK......thanks, I'm taking my time on this so I get it right.....learning a lot about relays.....I may have a question or two, will keep you posted.

 

Wanted to let you know haven't been feeling so good right now and need a little break.....thanks for your patience.

 

Dude,

Health outranks even an old Saturn.

it's not a race.
We're not going anywhere

 

I agree with derf. Stay safe and hydrated. I'm taking a day off from house painting because it's too damned hot here. 90 frigging degrees and I'm red headed and fair skinned. I don't do well on hot, sunny days. This one sucks!

 

no the dome light does not work

 

Are you answering on his behalf?

 

[QUOTE=derf;64381]In layman's terms, the ignition switch senses the key, that sensing signal talks to the BCM to say yep that's the right key, the BCM communicates to the ECU a password so to speak. The password must match what the ecu is expecting. If all this works out, the injectors are uninhibited, meaning the default state with passlock activated is to inhibit operation of the injectors.

The fact that you have no fuel at the rail would indicate to me an issue with the fuel pump or the electrical circuit that runs it including the fuse or relay. If you did not hear any noise when you turn the key on, then the fuel pump is not priming. Then the question becomes why.

Normally I would agree with you that no spark plus no fuel at the injectors points to CKP. However if there is no fuel at the rail, there is something not right before you can lay blame on the ckp.

The fact that your gas gauge is wonky May point at an electrical issue at the connections to the fuel pump. If the sending unit and the fuel pump are on the same circuit, you may have lost a ground which is keeping the fuel pump from running and also messing up the voltage signal sent by the sending unit as the ground side of that circuit may be floating.

Does your dome light work inside the car? Serious question.[/QU