Saturn 3 Door Coupes SC1 and SC2

Crank but no start

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  #31  
Old 02-06-2020, 03:09 PM
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I'm returning the Cen-Tech scanner to Harbor Freight. Can you recommend a decent scanner that for sure links with this '02 SC?
 
  #32  
Old 02-06-2020, 10:13 PM
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Start with a good battery or you will be chasing your tail. Nothing should be expected to function properly without sufficient power. ECM BCM PCM TCM fuel pump......
The the controllers drive all the modules so if they are not powered properly nothing will work right in general. Actron makes inexpensive scanners. I have one from six or seven years ago that I use on my 97 SC2. You may want to look into something like OBD2 scan tech MX plus it is a Bluetooth dongle that goes on to the diag port and you run an app on your phone. If you get one get the MX plus as they provide enhanced manufacturer specific code support. Not for all vehicles and not for the older ones but in your Ford GM and something else I can't remember. I think it is obdlink. You can Google it. Purchase directly from their website to ensure warranty is valid
 
  #33  
Old 02-08-2020, 10:05 AM
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Installed new battery - no change. Purchased a different scanner from Northern Tool (Performance Tool, model W2977) same problem "link error". Called the factory but they're Mon-Fri so will have to wait. I've checked the wiring on the DLC (pins 2,4,5, no wire on 16) and they look fine. What's interesting with this scanner it starts off with VPW for a split half second and then walks slowly through the other protocols then a 'link error'. It blows right past VPW doesn't even try to link.

My neighbor does body work at GM dealership. There's a small chance he may be able to borrow a scanner overnight. I'll ask tomorrow Sunday. . .
 
  #34  
Old 02-09-2020, 09:44 AM
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Only the third generation S cars had bcms. I'm not sure if the diag port is output from there or if it comes from the PCM like it used to in the older s cars. I have schematics and will try to figure out what circuit the fuel pump and diag Port are on, respectively.

If you want to verify there is no fuel to the front of the vehicle crank the engine for 3 or 4 seconds, then cover the fuel rail Schrader valve with a rag and depress the center as you would to let air out of a bike tire. If there is fuel pressure it will soak the rag. If there isn't then there isn't.

Do most of the other electrical functions in the car work properly? Power windows, power door locks, radio dome light. How about the chime if you leave the key in the ignition with your lights on and open the door. Does that work? I am not being sarcastic. There are some particular oddities to s car wiring that are uncovered by asking strange combinations of questions

How many miles on the car?

Have you checked for spark? I know with no fuel vehicle will not run oh, but it is a key troubleshooting step.
 

Last edited by derf; 02-09-2020 at 09:52 AM.
  #35  
Old 02-09-2020, 10:10 AM
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If you own a Saturn S car after 1996, do not purchase Chilton manual 62300 expecting to find 3rd generation 2000 through 2002 wiring diagrams of any type at all even though the book is labeled through 2002. It has beautiful schematics up through 95. End of note.

I will do some digging for you

Please hold
 
  #36  
Old 02-09-2020, 10:36 AM
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OK there are some pertinent schematics at

https://www.justanswer.com/car/1chm1...t-putting.html

Do NOT follow the "online mechanic's directions -- he's inadvertently telling you to short something to ground

I'll post the schematics in here later today. Now you have something to look for.

Basically we want to test the fuel pump. I think there is a little button near the FP relay in the IPJB labeled "test". i think it shunts current straight to the pump as long as you hod it down.
Always seen it, never used it. Do some more reading while I clean house for a while.
.
 
  #37  
Old 02-11-2020, 10:52 AM
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Thanks Derf.....last night my neighbor used his scanner from work and we got a U1000 data com error, along with blower relay error and right front ABS which I know about. Checked voltage on the DLC pin 4 and 16 and got 13V - shouldn't it be 12V.

Considering the car has sat garaged for 7 months over a hot and humid summer, I'm thinking corroded connectors in the ECM and/or BCM and grounds. I know where the ECM is but can't find where the BCM is located. This seems the easiest next step what do you think? Anything I should be wary of when I pull, clean and replace the modules?

I did take a good look at OBD solutions blue tooth scanners and they're impressive, BUT, no direct tech support only through the Community and I see a lot of software issues so I'm putting that on hold for now and will use my neighbors.

As always, really appreciate the advice!
 
  #38  
Old 02-11-2020, 11:26 AM
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Just found this you tube on removing the BCM on an '02 SC nice.......

I'll try the ECM first and see what happens.

 
  #39  
Old 02-24-2020, 10:00 AM
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Apologies for not updating sooner but was away. Well, cleaned up all contacts in the ECM and all grounds under the hood. Did not do the BCM. My neighbor used his scanner again with the same U1000 error. His unit will not drill down to the module level and there's nothing else he can do. I have a ticket open with OBD Link MX+ folks to see if that unit will give module specific info. If so I'll order one and keep you posted.

As always, thanks!
Doug
 
  #40  
Old 02-24-2020, 07:12 PM
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Never answered any of these.........
Originally Posted by derf
Only the third generation S cars had bcms. .....

Does fuel come out of the Schrader valve on the fuel rail under the hood?

.........
​​Do the other electrical functions in the car work properly? Power windows, power door locks, radio dome light. ?

How about the chime if you leave the key in the ignition with your lights on and open the door. Does that work?

How many miles on the car?

Have you checked for spark? ..........
 


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