sorry screamin' -- i mixed up your post details with those from verchild's ...my bad

1) You did not indicate that you've changed plug wires. I'd at minimum test the resistance --- replace any wires that are below 12,000 ohms.

2) What kind of plugs are you using? Stock NGK s are preferred. I would swap in a new set or at minimum check the gaps on those currently installed. Do not use platinum plugs -- they are not designed for use with the ignition system on the S car engines.

3) To check the DIS module operation -- remove all the plug wires from the coil packs --crank the engine. Sparks should appear alternately between the each pair of ignition coil towers.

4) Check the resistance across each coil pack -- should be 7, 000 to 10,000 ohms.

5) Trace the wiring back from the CPS connector to the PCM---ensure it is not damaged or intermittently grounding out on something.

6) I suppose it is possible that the DIS or one of the coils has an intermittent issue which none of these tests will reveal. If this is the case, I'd replace the other coil pack to ensure I have both coil packs in known good condition. If the problem persists, I'd then replace the DIS.

Hope this gives you some leads.....

 

it's ok, it happens

1) the plug wires were new when I bought the car, ACDelco replacements. I will check the resistance tomorrow tho.

2) I replaced the plugs that were in there (they were platinum, which are a waist of money IMO) to my favorite plugs...traditional copper NGKs gapped at .40. Best plug u can buy...again, IMO.

3) I did check the DIS the way u said but like u mentioned intermittent issues will not show up with this basic test.

4) I did test the coils like u said, I replaced one of them cuz it tested bad. I will replace the other coil now just in case even tho it did test good.

5) I have not gone to the extreme of checking all the wiring from the DIS to the PCM but I have looked at it and all the wires are still in the loom and the grounds seem good.

One thing I was thinking of is fuel pressure, what if the fuel pump is going bad, not getting the enough power.....

 

Sounds like a good path...

As for fuel pump....I have seen posts where people state that the car will cut out but when they take it to the dealer it can never be reproduced. Having checked everything else (we've discussed), they plead with the dealership to hook up a data logger. The data logger ends up capturing a momentary pressure dipcaused by the electrical fuel pump in the tank refusing to operate.

A) Have you done a fuel pressure test?

I suppose it's possible the fuel pressure is marginal to begin with, and therefore any dip stalls the car.

B) Has the fuel filter been changed recently? It maybe clogged. This would lead to an unintended pressure drop and would exacerbate the issue.

C) Assuming A& B are ruled out, the only way I've seen people positively ID the fuel pump as the culprit is by catching/observing the fuel pressure drop. I suppose you could hook a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve under the hood and feed it between the hood and windshield, leave it attached, and drive around that way, constantly monitoring the fuel pressure for the elusive dip.....

Food for thought......

Derf

 

I have not done a pressure test yet but I'm going to now, that is exactly what I planned on doing with driving around and such.

I'll keep u guys posted.

oh, and yes. the filter has been changed.

 

did a pressure test, passed with flying colors.

on the way home the car died at idle sitting at a red light, started right back up. as soon as I started moving the car was cutting in and out real bad for about 3 seconds. as soon as it started to run normal my SES light came on. as soon as I got home I pulled the code, it was code 19. I hadn't had that code yet. it's a 6X signal fault. since I have replaced my CPS and checked all the wires it's gotta be the ignition module.

 

sounds reasonable