Need some help and advice.
#2
03-26-2019, 10:04 PM
Are they defective/malfunctioning?
Are you seeking alternatives?
If so, what's the application?
Search Google for
1993 saturn sl1 fuel injector
and you will see what's out there.
Rockauto tends to sell quality stuff. Just stay away from the cheapest version available and you should be ok.
Are you seeking alternatives?
If so, what's the application?
Search Google for
1993 saturn sl1 fuel injector
and you will see what's out there.
Rockauto tends to sell quality stuff. Just stay away from the cheapest version available and you should be ok.
#4
04-02-2019, 07:22 AM
Apology
Erik13,
After looking at your pic of 4/1 and I re-reading your first few posts back from January, I have rediscovered the fact that you are trying to rally out your ride.
Apologies for not being more "into" providing detailed advice.
I lost track of your original goal and thought you were just a "parts-swapper because you can" type, with no goal other than to change things because they either look good, sound good, or are something to brag about.
Hence my generally unenthusiastic responses.
1) Don't know diddly about rally racing for starters.
I know S cars (stock) from 93 up (91=mutant, 92=try again) (minus the 3rd gen S cars which I can figure out the pre cat/Passlock II /BCM stuff if I need to.
That said, here's some stuff I found that should be of interest:
1) Perspective: Saturn Rally Car... - SaturnFans.com Forums
Rally vs RallyCross The really competitive folks tend to wreck/break/collide w something and damage their rides.
2) Power under the hood/Injectors
If it's a 93SL1 (SOHC), you're working with a joyous 85 HP and Throttle Body Injection (TBI) -- a single injector, Early DOHC's are 114 (?) HP and MPFI.
The stock PCM cannot be tuned (one dude supposedly figured out the assembly level code mask to talk to it, but he was an **** and never shared it with a soul.
Apparently, RallyCross can be run with your car config'd as your daily driver, though I'm sure some suspension mods and other things would help to keep you from putting grooves in the plastic and rolling the car.
Upshot: People seem to use the DOHC for these cars presumably because of the higher power and likely the lower gearing of the matching tranny.
When people want more throughput and more horsepower.
If you're in it purely for the fun, then go for it with what you have.
If you're a competitive dude, rebuild the engine with a 3rd gen block (supposedly stronger) and rebuild a 93 DOHC head and use a 93 intake manifold and valves -- the early DOHC valves were shaped in such a way that the compression was slightly higher. See the "Swap Guide" post in our technical section on the forum. It was written and augmented over the years by some of the earlier enthusiasts back when there was actually a tiny bit of aftermarket support. It is pretty much geared towards DOHC engines since people were trying to maximize power.
3) Turbo:
Visit Different Racing to see an example of an old SL2 built for straight line (drag) racing.
I know it's not a rally config; the point is so that you can see what seriously "inspired" people did to the early Saturns back in the day.
You can get away with much larger injectors via swap and a larger throttle body via swap on a DOHC, because you can make a custom fuel rail with it. I don't believe this can be said for an SL1 and its 1 injector.
You'll also notice that many of the parts (intercooler, turbo exhaust manifold, cams. etc) were "custom" pieces made for that car. Back then there were two or three members of the community fabricating their own turbo exhaust manifolds because, well, no one made one.
Today there are a few S car turbo kits out there if you look for them. They are old stock from the late 90's - early 2000's that no one ever bought.
As far as I know, besides a part out from a turboed Satty or junkyard find of the year, the kit is the only place you'll find one. Yes, you can have anything fabricated, but the cost and the re-do's getting the fit just right are somewhat prohibitive (unless you're rich).
As for kit quality, no clue.
Supposedly you can run up to 7psi boost on a stock Saturn setup, but it is unwise to do so on an older engine due to the existing wear and the stress the turbo puts on the internals
As for relevancy to rally car or rallycross -- my first impression is that you would not want the turbo kicking in and out while trying to drive windy paths. It would, however, be excellent for the straight line pulls.
4) Engine Management
You'll Also notice they use a programmable DIS module and a standalone engine management system since you can't hack the stock PCM -- this has always been a limitation.
5) Transmission Differential Pin ---WELD IT
These are known to punch holes in the transmission case when they break, whether it's wheel slip that suddenly grabs or some other nasty condition that has one front wheel gripping and the other not. I do not think the early S cars had traction control so that won't help you at all nor would it really be expected to as I think it is implemented via injector shutoff=power reduction. Plus you would want to try to drive a course with TRAC engaged anyway
As I mentioned, when it fails it almost always punches the case, leaving you with no dif pin and no transmission. I'm sure there are some MP3(?) manual Trannys in a warehouse somewhere but I wouldn't want to have to track one over something entirely preventable.
Even if not adding the turbo, if you're gonna put stress on it in any way besides straight line DD type miles, weld the pin. As there is already a roll cage in the vehicle, it is possible the previous owner already did. But ya gotta check.
6) Suspension stuff
If you want coilovers, I would suggest you get them fabricated to match the specs of the aftermarket ones OR find a semi-identical match from another vehicle and modify the mountings. You'll have to know the spring rate \in order to get it right, as well as the shock/strut compression rate. Stock front and rear struts are different. Never thought about the springs front vs back but a part number search will answer that question.
I've always used AC/Delco LCA's in the front of my S cars. However, it seems that the stock is so old that the rubber bearings are already partially dried out before you ever install them. They still work wonderfully but only last half as long as they should.
Hopefully, the above makes up for my previously unenthusiastic response to your questions.
Derf
After looking at your pic of 4/1 and I re-reading your first few posts back from January, I have rediscovered the fact that you are trying to rally out your ride.
Apologies for not being more "into" providing detailed advice.
I lost track of your original goal and thought you were just a "parts-swapper because you can" type, with no goal other than to change things because they either look good, sound good, or are something to brag about.
Hence my generally unenthusiastic responses.
1) Don't know diddly about rally racing for starters.
I know S cars (stock) from 93 up (91=mutant, 92=try again) (minus the 3rd gen S cars which I can figure out the pre cat/Passlock II /BCM stuff if I need to.
That said, here's some stuff I found that should be of interest:
1) Perspective: Saturn Rally Car... - SaturnFans.com Forums
Rally vs RallyCross The really competitive folks tend to wreck/break/collide w something and damage their rides.
2) Power under the hood/Injectors
If it's a 93SL1 (SOHC), you're working with a joyous 85 HP and Throttle Body Injection (TBI) -- a single injector, Early DOHC's are 114 (?) HP and MPFI.
The stock PCM cannot be tuned (one dude supposedly figured out the assembly level code mask to talk to it, but he was an **** and never shared it with a soul.
Apparently, RallyCross can be run with your car config'd as your daily driver, though I'm sure some suspension mods and other things would help to keep you from putting grooves in the plastic and rolling the car.
Upshot: People seem to use the DOHC for these cars presumably because of the higher power and likely the lower gearing of the matching tranny.
When people want more throughput and more horsepower.
If you're in it purely for the fun, then go for it with what you have.
If you're a competitive dude, rebuild the engine with a 3rd gen block (supposedly stronger) and rebuild a 93 DOHC head and use a 93 intake manifold and valves -- the early DOHC valves were shaped in such a way that the compression was slightly higher. See the "Swap Guide" post in our technical section on the forum. It was written and augmented over the years by some of the earlier enthusiasts back when there was actually a tiny bit of aftermarket support. It is pretty much geared towards DOHC engines since people were trying to maximize power.
3) Turbo:
Visit Different Racing to see an example of an old SL2 built for straight line (drag) racing.
I know it's not a rally config; the point is so that you can see what seriously "inspired" people did to the early Saturns back in the day.
You can get away with much larger injectors via swap and a larger throttle body via swap on a DOHC, because you can make a custom fuel rail with it. I don't believe this can be said for an SL1 and its 1 injector.
You'll also notice that many of the parts (intercooler, turbo exhaust manifold, cams. etc) were "custom" pieces made for that car. Back then there were two or three members of the community fabricating their own turbo exhaust manifolds because, well, no one made one.
Today there are a few S car turbo kits out there if you look for them. They are old stock from the late 90's - early 2000's that no one ever bought.
As far as I know, besides a part out from a turboed Satty or junkyard find of the year, the kit is the only place you'll find one. Yes, you can have anything fabricated, but the cost and the re-do's getting the fit just right are somewhat prohibitive (unless you're rich).
As for kit quality, no clue.
Supposedly you can run up to 7psi boost on a stock Saturn setup, but it is unwise to do so on an older engine due to the existing wear and the stress the turbo puts on the internals
As for relevancy to rally car or rallycross -- my first impression is that you would not want the turbo kicking in and out while trying to drive windy paths. It would, however, be excellent for the straight line pulls.
4) Engine Management
You'll Also notice they use a programmable DIS module and a standalone engine management system since you can't hack the stock PCM -- this has always been a limitation.
5) Transmission Differential Pin ---WELD IT
These are known to punch holes in the transmission case when they break, whether it's wheel slip that suddenly grabs or some other nasty condition that has one front wheel gripping and the other not. I do not think the early S cars had traction control so that won't help you at all nor would it really be expected to as I think it is implemented via injector shutoff=power reduction. Plus you would want to try to drive a course with TRAC engaged anyway
As I mentioned, when it fails it almost always punches the case, leaving you with no dif pin and no transmission. I'm sure there are some MP3(?) manual Trannys in a warehouse somewhere but I wouldn't want to have to track one over something entirely preventable.
Even if not adding the turbo, if you're gonna put stress on it in any way besides straight line DD type miles, weld the pin. As there is already a roll cage in the vehicle, it is possible the previous owner already did. But ya gotta check.
6) Suspension stuff
If you want coilovers, I would suggest you get them fabricated to match the specs of the aftermarket ones OR find a semi-identical match from another vehicle and modify the mountings. You'll have to know the spring rate \in order to get it right, as well as the shock/strut compression rate. Stock front and rear struts are different. Never thought about the springs front vs back but a part number search will answer that question.
I've always used AC/Delco LCA's in the front of my S cars. However, it seems that the stock is so old that the rubber bearings are already partially dried out before you ever install them. They still work wonderfully but only last half as long as they should.
Hopefully, the above makes up for my previously unenthusiastic response to your questions.
Derf
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