Attempt #2:

PCM Connector J2 BLACK

Viewed with latch on RIGHT:

Row A on RIGHT'
Row B on LEFT
Pins numbered 1-12 TOP to BOTTOM
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A1=SES Telltale BRN/WHT
(Should be able to read DCV off this (w r t pcm ground) to count what the bulb flashing would be)

A2=SPEED OUT 5000 PPM DKGRN/WHT
no clue about the 5000 or PPM but I assume the signal is proportional to vehicle speed

A8= TPS INPUT DKBLU
(for testing purposes)

A9= VSS HI YEL
A10= VSS LOW PPL

B5= TPS FEED 5V GRA
(testing)

Nothing else handy for you on that connector
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PCM Connector J1 BLUE

NOTE NOTE NOTE >>>>>>>>>> View connector with latch on the LEFT<<<

Row D on RIGHT
Row C on LEFT
Pins numbered 1-16 from >>>>BOTTOM TO TOP<<<<<<

C12= Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) FEED YEL
C3 = CTS GND BLK

D3=TPS GND BLK

D9=O2 Sensor PPL
D10=O2 Sensor GND TAN

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So you now can trace from the PCM connectors outward.

You are probably wondering why I gave you the info for the CTS and O2 sensor.
It's because these two sensors must be operating correctly or the air/fuel mix on this engine goes to crap.

Especially the CTS. THere will be 2 on your engine.
One is a single wire and drove the dash gauge.
The other is a two wire device screwed into the head that should be solid brass (2nd design). 1st design was resin tipped and all failed. Also check the squeeze connector for it for signs of corrosion. I can't believe it has survived this long.
If you replace one, replace both. GM/AC Delco parts ONLY. No Joke. Really. Trust me.

The CTS changes resistance w temp. When it goes bad, it usually fails open circuit (resistance = infinite). This is interpreted by the PCM as the coolant always being at -35 degrees. A/F mix is way rich. Adjustments are attempted based on O2 readings but car runs way rich regardless of engine temp.

If the previous owner cut the CTS leads, that's prob half your problem.
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There is only one O2 sensor on the OBDI's, right off the manifold. Of course it serves the purpose of trying to fine tune the A/F ratio in real time. If this sensor is dead or non-existent, I believe in OBDI it throws a code AND commands a constant failsafe mixture adjustment (I will guess rich). So although you don't give a crap about emissions, you kinda need it in there to keep the A/F mix right.

These 2 sensors are the most important sensors on a Saturn s car and account for probably 80% of driveability issues. Especially the CTS.

GM Parts. AC Delco. No substitutions. You substitute, I close book with pinouts and wire colors.

Well that was a mouthful.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm not much of an electronics guy so I need to figure out what to do with what you just told me. Give me some time and I will try to come back with more intelligent questions. Right now what comes to mind is how do I verify the sensors are good? All three are present, O2 at the manifold, CTS(s) at the rear of the head and on a pipe to radiator.

I don't think these are the issues because it acts consistently hot, cold, under load or WOT. The symptom acts and sounds like a rev limiter.

Any idea where I would look for the potential pigtail for the VSS? I've found a couple of connectors that are not connected to anything but they are up near the top of the engine and not long enough to have made it to a wheel hub.

I opened the box on the buggy this weekend to see what kind of brains were in it. These pictures are what I found. Any thoughts?