brakes drag after 20 minutes of stop n go.

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  #51  
Old 03-11-2013, 10:23 AM
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Bit anyways, traded it in for a 2011 Ford edge with 24k miles. Found a good deal on it for 19k. And looks about 95% new. So I'm pleased.
 
  #52  
Old 03-11-2013, 01:27 PM
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The Edge IS a nice looking vehicle. I don't think you'll get the mileage out of it that your Saturn was giving you, though. Keep us posted on how it does. My wife likes the way they look and I'd gladly give up this Equinox for the right deal on one.
 
  #53  
Old 03-12-2013, 10:13 AM
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Yup, the vue did treat me good for 5 years. Only break down I had was the torque converter at 77(. Under warranty. Only self repair jobs were due to tracing the drag. Which was 1 brake line, booster valve, Brake master due to leaking and battery. So it did treat me good.
 
  #54  
Old 03-12-2013, 10:14 AM
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This edge does look really good and the power of 289hp is incredible. Never had so much power so it's fun driving.
 
  #55  
Old 02-04-2018, 12:21 PM
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Default Brake drag problem

I know this is an old thread but the problem persists. I posted on another thread that there are two likely problems if brake drag develops in the Theta platform cars ‘10 or older. One is the brake hoses get squeezed by rusty brackets and the other is tha the master cylinder goes bad and leaks into the brake booster. The the booster malfunctions and both need to be replaced. So here’s what I’ve learned. If your brakes seize intermittently it’s probably the brake lines (hoses) problem. If it’s constant it’s probably the master cylinder/booster problem. Okay, assuming you find that problem and fix it, problem two can, but not always rear it’s disgusting head. Sometimes the new brake booster/master cylinder combo, even if they are ACDELCO both, can be slightly out of adjustment which will result in, BINGO, the same siezing problem. This is what sends people off the deep end. I had to remove the new master cylinder and screw on the pushrod inside the booster. Now, I compared the new and old adjustment of the push rod and they were the same. Yet, I had to turn the rod in about three turns. You have to clamp the base of the rod and turn the insert in with a socket. This cured my problem including the Stabiltrak/traction Control lights. This whoordeal took me over a week to figure out and since my original problem was the hoses, it kind of aggravates me that GM hasn’t owned up to this issue. I don’t even care if they waited till my (or your) car went out of warranty before contacting us because it still would have been better to pay than to go crazy chasing the problem. Hope this post helps. I didn’t explain some technical stuff but I wanted to focus on clearing up the confusion.
 
  #56  
Old 02-04-2018, 11:11 PM
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Awesome info for some pissed off people. Thank t.
 
  #57  
Old 03-26-2019, 03:36 PM
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Default excellent write up does this apply to non ABS models

As my title asks, does this apply to non ABS models?

Originally Posted by jcj5072
I know this is an old thread but the problem persists. I posted on another thread that there are two likely problems if brake drag develops in the Theta platform cars ‘10 or older. One is the brake hoses get squeezed by rusty brackets and the other is tha the master cylinder goes bad and leaks into the brake booster. The the booster malfunctions and both need to be replaced. So here’s what I’ve learned. If your brakes seize intermittently it’s probably the brake lines (hoses) problem. If it’s constant it’s probably the master cylinder/booster problem. Okay, assuming you find that problem and fix it, problem two can, but not always rear it’s disgusting head. Sometimes the new brake booster/master cylinder combo, even if they are ACDELCO both, can be slightly out of adjustment which will result in, BINGO, the same siezing problem. This is what sends people off the deep end. I had to remove the new master cylinder and screw on the pushrod inside the booster. Now, I compared the new and old adjustment of the push rod and they were the same. Yet, I had to turn the rod in about three turns. You have to clamp the base of the rod and turn the insert in with a socket. This cured my problem including the Stabiltrak/traction Control lights. This whoordeal took me over a week to figure out and since my original problem was the hoses, it kind of aggravates me that GM hasn’t owned up to this issue. I don’t even care if they waited till my (or your) car went out of warranty before contacting us because it still would have been better to pay than to go crazy chasing the problem. Hope this post helps. I didn’t explain some technical stuff but I wanted to focus on clearing up the confusion.
 
  #58  
Old 03-26-2019, 10:24 PM
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If the problem is in your case due to the constricted brake lines or a bad master cylinder, abs is irrelevant in my opinion. Same goes for adjusting the rod on the booster.

The other poster seemed to think it was a faulty abs. This is also possible.

Basically, as I understand it, brake fluid is pushed out to the calipers but the fluid cannot/does not flow back towards the master cylinder when the brake pedal is released so the pads stay pinned to the rotors and drag. The question is why.u
 
  #59  
Old 04-01-2019, 02:32 PM
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Smile brake dragging

Originally Posted by simcoewaters
As my title asks, does this apply to non ABS models?
Hi, I hope this is timely, but I would have to say yes. All the parts that become a problem function the same way with or without the ABS unit. I want to reiterate that in my case it was the brake hoses that choked off return flow of fluid from the wheels to the system. The metal brackets that support the hose rust on the inner face where you cannot see but it is enough to close off the inside of the hose which really is only a little bit bigger than the inside of a ballpoint pen. The hoses are quite cheap (under 15) on Rockauto but changing them does need a decent amount of work because the system needs to be bled for air after the change. I have an '07 that was not garage kept.


Jeff
 
  #60  
Old 04-04-2019, 01:19 PM
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Default reply was timely

Thanks Jeff. I am working on my sons Saturn Ion 2004 2.2L. Investigation found the rear of the brake reservoir to be very low. I topped this up and located one of the two lines that run from the dynamic brake proportioner to the master cylinder was leaking. These two lines running from either end of the proportioner showed lots of rust and run together to the master cylinder located below the reservoir. An initial search for an image of a M/C for a Saturn revealed images of M/C's with four brake lines. I am remedying the broken lines before I tackle the brake drag issue. The previous posts should be very helpful. P.S. I will post images of the saturn Ions layout in the appropriate thread if I can locate it. Thanks again to all contributors.
 


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