, doesn't seem to affect operation or performance. If I unplug it at the ignition switch, will that trigger something else? I don't need the security part. Thanks for info---

 

Derf--Can you please tell me how to go about doing this --You can "bypass" it, which is how people refer to supplying the system what it is looking for so it never thinks it is being stolen ---Thanks, Harv

 

What you mean is you don't want the security part. Unfortunately you are stuck with it thanks to the genius design of GM. I am sure you disconnected it at the ignition and found out exactly why you need it to work.

Year and model of your vehicle?

 

You can "bypass" it, which is how people refer to supplying the system what it is looking for so it never thinks it is being stolen I
I copied that line from your reply--I'm not good with forums, may get stuff in wrong places!
I havn't unplugged anything as yet waiting for your reply,which sounds as if it'll screw somthing up? If I can bypass it by supplying info to it, could you please explain the procedure?It's still starting and running normally, but I know that light is there for a reason, and I want to anticipate any problems.Usually comes on about a minute after I start up. Thanks in advance for your help---Harv

 

Sorry, crazy busy at work.

Also did more thinking.

The one thing that will hose you is if security activates for real and keeps you from starting the car.

If the light comes on a full minute after you start the car, and the car runs fine, leave it be. Here's why.

3rd gen Saturn s cars were the first s cars to have BCMs and Passlock II. The BCM has the Passlock II embedded in it. You can't remove it.

The BCM also controls almost all of the equipment in the cabin, plus exterior lights. It controls the dash too.

My guess is that this is a BCM issue.

If the light comes on but does not stall out the car, then some of the BCM programming is corrupted. If security were truly activated, the fuel injectors would get shut off and you would stall. As long as you don't have other strange things going on with lights staying on or the dashboard lighting up like a Christmas tree after you have started the car, I wouldn't worry about it for now.

In this case there is nothing to bypass because security isn't really being tripped. The car sees everything it expects to see and starts properly so that part of the system is not in need of bypass

 

I'm of the same opinion as derf. Don't eff with it as long as it isn't keeping you from driving the car. In the meantime, you have a chance to look for another BCM in case that one DOES take a dump.

 

Derf---Thanks a lot for your reply, I've been driving it and it starts great as usual and as you say maybe a short minute, but comes on afer the engine's running.When it first showed up a few weeks ago, it was intermitent and took much longer to appear
.The ignition switch is pretty sloppy and I had to take the lock cylinder out some time ago and file the edge down so it would lock properly. Key comes out easily when it's running, no efects.
I have the lower switch cover off, thought about soldering in a resistor as someone described, but now I'll leave it alone, probably screw something else up. It's got 250,000 K on it and I think the planned obsolescence is kicking in. Just changed all the idlers and tightner pulley, next is the waterpump, dry bearing.
Thanks again for your help, I'm an old fart and a fair amount of puttering time without worrying about that four letter word--work, but I know all about it!! Harv

 

Not changing my advice on what to do but filing the cylinder will change the alignment between the key and the sensor in the cylinder but that detects whether the key is there or not.

While parked going nowhere, remove the key while it is running before the light comes on and see if the light comes on immediately. Leave the key out and let it idle....and idle. With the garage door open.

If that is your issue..... Passlock no longer sees key.... You will have found your cause. The important part to figure out, if it is the cause, is if the car will shut down on you.

Being old and retired, I'm sure the combination has led to you having all kinds of extraneous shayt hanging off that key ring. If so, that is what is likely pulling the key out of alignment following the filing of the cylinder.

Stuff like that didn't matter back in the good old days with carburetors, manual chokes, and vacuum operated accessories.

All of this Hi-Tech stuff with today's cars can really cross up extremely knowledgeable people like you.... And my brother-in-law....... They can fix anything in a car that is not controlled by a computer.

Not saying you don't understand computers or anything like that. Just that it is often so weak suit of those from the carburetor era. They hide computer-controlled **** everywhere. Some of it is physical combined with programming in a module where ones and zeros and digital comparisons written by some 22-year-old decide whether your car keeps running or not, or even starts.

Ok enough of that.

If you leave the key out and the car stalls, then my advice will change.

 

Hi,Derf-- Seems like I'm using up a lot of your valuable time, but I'm enjoying the conversations.
Filing the edge of the lock cylinder was done on the advice of someone on this forum ,and did help allowing it to turn and lock properly. I don't have anything on the key but the remote button,and tried it with my spare key with nothing on it. Also with the key out, it doesn't seem to do anything but control the ignition switch,both keys seem well worn, I tried to get a new one made last winter,but their cutter wouldn't hold it properly. I'll try leaving it out longer as you suggest..
You're probably right and it's in the BCM, probably not find a spare one of those!.
I've done all the usual cleaning, battery terminals, grounds etc
.The main reason I have the SW-2 is that it was readily available when my '06 CR-V was stolen last year, and set up for towing behind my old motorhome.I'm in SW BC ,Canada, and towed it to Yuma,AZ & back last winter, no problem. Also We had a similar '98 sw-2 for about 3 years and towed it a lot in Canada, US and Mexico so I knew it was a good tow car.
I didn't intend to peck out a novel, but you sound like an interesting guy,and thanks for the help.

 

No problem. Stick around and chip in. If nothing else, post n reply in the off topic section. We need some new blood around here. With your many years of mechanical experience, I'm sure you have wisdom to share.

Should you ever decide to get another key cut, get it cut at a GM dealership from the VIN. If you already tried that, have them pass the info to an automotive locksmith. It will cost a.bit more but you'll have a key. I think you have to order the blank from GM due to the resistor in the key.

As I mentioned, please stick around.

We take playful jabs at each other, but it's all for fun.