Security light on
#2
You mean Security AND Service (wrench) I assume from your post in the other thread.
I'm going to guess that you removed the neg battery cable when replacing the fuel pump.
These cars are extremely sensitive to system voltage levels.
Your phenomenon has been reported before. Not really sure of the nitty gritty, but basically you need to investigate the battery cables and the battery terminal posts for corrosion, disintegration, looseness, and your battery must be held down by the tie down.
Cut the cable insulation back a few inches. If you find corrosion/evidence of acid erosion, replace the cable and check your battery for acid leakage at the terminal, though it could have been from an earlier battery. Once went to change out a dying battery and the terminal fell right off the battery when I went to loosen the terminal.
Make sure your battery posts are clean clean clean.
Make sure your cable connections are tight and clean. This includes the - neg battery cable ground to the car frame -- if it is not making good connection or is corroded, your moving the cable around while disconnecting/connecting could have been enough to affect the connection. Clean up that connection.
So battery terminal posts, cable terminals, cables themselves, and ground connection.
Let us know
I'm going to guess that you removed the neg battery cable when replacing the fuel pump.
These cars are extremely sensitive to system voltage levels.
Your phenomenon has been reported before. Not really sure of the nitty gritty, but basically you need to investigate the battery cables and the battery terminal posts for corrosion, disintegration, looseness, and your battery must be held down by the tie down.
Cut the cable insulation back a few inches. If you find corrosion/evidence of acid erosion, replace the cable and check your battery for acid leakage at the terminal, though it could have been from an earlier battery. Once went to change out a dying battery and the terminal fell right off the battery when I went to loosen the terminal.
Make sure your battery posts are clean clean clean.
Make sure your cable connections are tight and clean. This includes the - neg battery cable ground to the car frame -- if it is not making good connection or is corroded, your moving the cable around while disconnecting/connecting could have been enough to affect the connection. Clean up that connection.
So battery terminal posts, cable terminals, cables themselves, and ground connection.
Let us know
#3
Cables clean and tight, New battery . Found a you tube video on this, If the security light is blinking turn off and wait ten min. then turn on if light stays on and not blinking it will start.
#5
Tightened all connections and all seems fine, Start and drive ten to fifteen miles shut off set for five mins. and restarts fine . Have done this four times so far. Hoping it will stay running for a while. Again Thank you.
#8
could be. I have read on other sites where people tried changing out the entire column and the passlock system objected to the point that they had to put the original back in and change out the ignition switch.
Search the web for "saturn sl1 security light and Service light" or similar.
As for the interior light, I'm gonna guess your driver's door was not fully latched and the plunger that detects whether the door is closed was going in and back out.
Search the web for "saturn sl1 security light and Service light" or similar.
As for the interior light, I'm gonna guess your driver's door was not fully latched and the plunger that detects whether the door is closed was going in and back out.
#10
No.
You can have it "relearn" the expected responses it passes between modules if it gets confused.
You can "bypass" it, which is how people refer to supplying the system what it is looking for so it never thinks it is being stolen.
The biggest problem is that the security system is not a discrete module on these cars (S,L,Ion,Vues. Etc). It is merely programming inside the BCM. And when that begins to fail, you get into situations where the expected responses get "forgotten" and the system can no longer be relearned. So the car will not run. Ever. Which means replacement BCM. Which means $$.
You can have it "relearn" the expected responses it passes between modules if it gets confused.
You can "bypass" it, which is how people refer to supplying the system what it is looking for so it never thinks it is being stolen.
The biggest problem is that the security system is not a discrete module on these cars (S,L,Ion,Vues. Etc). It is merely programming inside the BCM. And when that begins to fail, you get into situations where the expected responses get "forgotten" and the system can no longer be relearned. So the car will not run. Ever. Which means replacement BCM. Which means $$.