Saturn L Series Sedans & Wagons L100, L200, L300, LW200, and LW300

Replacing CV Axle in L200

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  #1  
Old 01-16-2016, 09:41 PM
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Default Replacing CV Axle in L200

2002 Saturn, L200 (L series), 2.2 liter engine, automatic transmission

While replacing the struts I noticed the inner boot on the passenger-side CV axle was completely torn.

So today I removed the CV "half shaft" axle on the passenger-side. Well, sort of... I couldn't loosen the damn hub nut. So when I removed the axle, the rotor and brake hub were still attached. In addition, the inner CV joint split apart, i.e. the inner CV joint did not pull out of the transmission.

Here are some pics:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ecztiiy15...uPLQjNNTa?dl=0

So now I have two problems:

1) Removing the hub nut. I think the best way is to stick the shaft in a big vice and use a impact wrench & socket 30 mm deep-well socket on the nut. Would you agree? If so, is it a right-hand thread (turn nut CCW to loosen)?

2) As mentioned above, when I pulled the shaft out, the inner CV joint sort of "split in half." So part of the inner CV joint is still stuck in the transmission. I don't know how to get it out of the transmission. When you simply pull on it, it doesn't come out. Feels like something is holding it in. How do I get it out of the transmission?
 
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Old 01-17-2016, 06:10 AM
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I'm not sure how to get the shaft out of the transmission, but on most cars I've ever done (Mopars) you just use a pry bar. Someone else will have to tell you on that car. As far as the nut goes, you should have gotten a deep well socket and a big *** breaker bar and done it first. I use a 4 foot long cheater pipe over my 1/2" drive breaker bar and have never had any trouble getting one loose. Now that you have it out, just do it the way you stated and it should be fine. And YES, it's a typical right hand thread.
 
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Old 01-17-2016, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Rubehayseed
I'm not sure how to get the shaft out of the transmission, but on most cars I've ever done (Mopars) you just use a pry bar. Someone else will have to tell you on that car. As far as the nut goes, you should have gotten a deep well socket and a big *** breaker bar and done it first. I use a 4 foot long cheater pipe over my 1/2" drive breaker bar and have never had any trouble getting one loose. Now that you have it out, just do it the way you stated and it should be fine. And YES, it's a typical right hand thread.
Thanks for the advice.

Yes, you're correct that I should have removed the nut first. But I had a couple problems:

1. I own a lot of sockets, but I don't have a 30 mm deep-well. The standard 30 mm socket I was using could not fit all the way over the nut, resulting in rounding of some of the corners. It looks like HB has a set of metric, deep-well impact sockets on sale this month for $25, and it includes a 30 mm. I'm going to buy the set.

2. I did manage to turn the nut a little, but the entire shaft turned along with it for some reason. I tried putting a pipe clamp on the shaft, but it didn't work.

So just pry the CV joint out of the transmission?
 
  #4  
Old 01-17-2016, 05:29 PM
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O.K., so I got the CV joint out of the transmission using a small pry bar. (Thanks for the help on this.) The new CV axle (Duralast 8450) did not come with the “stub” shaft that goes into the transmission.

This folder contains photos showing the old and new CV axle:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mux7bab62...LyASwEEPa?dl=0

How do I remove the old stub from the old inner CV joint? Press it out? Use a big hammer and punch? And how do I re-install it onto the new inner CV joint??

Sorry for the dumb questions, but I just want to make sure I do it right.
 
  #5  
Old 01-18-2016, 07:24 AM
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I have no idea about that stub. I'd double check where I got that shaft if I were you. I've NEVER had one come incomplete like that. If you got it at Autozone, then it needs no explanation to me. I worked for them for 5 years before getting fed up with their crappy parts and quality control.
 
  #6  
Old 01-18-2016, 11:12 AM
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Success!!!

I stuck the stub shaft in a vice, and then pounded the inner CV joint off of it using a ball-peen hammer. (Before sticking the stub shaft in the vice, I wrapped it with many layers of paper towels to protect the splines.)

After the CV joint separated from the stub shaft, I thoroughly cleaned the end of the stub shaft that goes into the CV joint. To do this, I sprayed carburetor cleaner down into splines, and then used a .22LR cleaning brush (w/ nylon bristles) to scrub them. Worked perfectly.

After the stub shaft was cleaned and dried, I put a copious amount of grease into the female splined end of new inner CV joint. I put the new CV axle in a vice and then pounded the stub shaft into the new CV joint using a ball-peen hammer.

Here are some pics:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pdcwtn9dd...hbCbe0t7a?dl=0
 
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Old 01-18-2016, 05:01 PM
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Nice job, man. Have you got it back together?
 
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Rubehayseed
Nice job, man. Have you got it back together?
Yep, it's all back together. But then disaster struck a couple hours ago.

So over the last couple of weekends I have been working on my Saturn in a very cold barn. (It's 10 °F here!) This includes new struts on both sides, new drive axle on passenger side, (almost) new front tires, oil change, added transmission fluid, etc.

I finally finished up this evening. My fingers and toes were so cold that I had to go in the house for a while before I could even drive it out of the barn.

So at 6 PM I started it up and parked it just outside the barn. With the engine still running, I went back into the barn to turn off my little fluorescent light. And that's when I noticed a puddle of motor oil on the floor.

I ran back to the car and quickly shut it off.

I couldn't understand why the car leaked so much oil. I know I replaced the oil drain plug. I know I tightened the oil filter. I then crawled under the car with a flashlight, and saw a 4 inch hole in the oil pan.

Here's a pic:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/74pbakgvzc...0Hole.JPG?dl=0

I am not exactly sure how this happened, but I must have accidentally put a jack stand under the oil pan when it was jacked up. Which is beyond stupid. I have jacked up cars hundreds of times over the past 30 years, and have never done this – I am always careful to place the jack stands under the frame. I still can't believe I did this.

At any rate, that doesn't matter now. I need to replace the oil pan. I tried googling how to replace the oil pan on an L200, but didn't find much.

Another concern is that I ran the engine for about 45 seconds. I am not sure how much oil is still in the engine. I am hoping there is still some oil in the lower part of the pan. (The hole is up high.)
 

Last edited by Ohio_Guy; 01-18-2016 at 07:30 PM.
  #9  
Old 01-19-2016, 08:11 AM
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I just saw your other post. Man, that really sucks! But, at least it's a pretty easy, straight forward job to replace the oil pan. Just make sure you get everything clean on the mating surface before you put the new one on. After scraping all of the silicone off, I'd use some brake parts cleaner and a shop rag to clean off any residue.
 
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