I've never put any electronic add-on or mods to this car. But now I'm adding a remote starter. I need a power source that's safe. I know were the fuse box is but I want to make sure I've got a safe tap-in. Anyone ever tapped into a safe power source on these cars?

 

Hey folks,

Do remote starters play nice with the beloved PASSLOCK II systems on these vehicles?
I can't seem to remember a post about remote starters in a long time.

I'm throwing this out there to the forum because if your PASSLOCK theft deterrent system is still functioning properly at 140K, you're luckier than many.
The last thing you want to do is inadvertently create a fustercluck with PASSLOCK during the installation.

Bones may be able to help you (19bonestock88)

 

 

Oh I absolutely inherently ran into the PASSLOCK beast. There's a frustratingly re-learning procedure that takes 10 minutes and there's no way around it. Here's what I've learned:

1) The after-market ones that do work can be rather expensive.
2) Seems like there's a very secretive and lucrative industry built around it.
3) Not much out there in forums other than band-aid solutions and crazy by-passes, (may or may not work with side effects).

My 2007 ION 2 was the last of it's kind before Saturn shut down the doors on this model and the Saturn company died in 2009.The limited research I have come up with is based on my own confusion.These models used the earlier simple PASSLOCK system which uses a sensor in the cylinder lock housing. (Over time they will go bad). If one has start up issues that are PASSLOCK related, one should get the GM kit 23233195. It comes with the housing and the ignition switch, (they are paired). Price ranges from 94 to $120 from online dealerships. It is thus far an OEM part only.

I bought a bypass module, (Xpressit), it wasn't too expensive, ($24.00), and I know about the fuse box. But I think I'm going to use the direct under hood supply, (the one for jump-starts). I'll make my own fused line that way if I blow the fuse and the car wont start I'll just pop open the hood and replace it, (then I may have to go through the re-learn procedure all over again....UHG)!

 

If you are going to tap into the main battery feed, make you life easier and tap into the feed from the battery where it enters the IPJB (Instrument Panel Junction Box) inside the car. There may be a fuse slot assigned to nothing do that you can use a standard minifuse and connect from the bottom of the fuse terminal block. Identical in line fuse config on an individual circuit, easier to replace, and a cleaner install.

Be aware that the brains of Passlock lie within the BCM, so the system can fail at the ignition or the BCM or both.

Any stereo install place can probably handle this install. Which is why it is so lucrative. You can likely find the way around it on the net. Many explanations may be wrong so choose carefully.

 

Good Idea. When I get a chance to work on it I'll take a look at that again, (Instrument Panel Junction Box). I briefly thought about that but getting behind that junction box looked like one requires a little patience to tackle it. I was in a hurry so I didn't give it a second glance..Thanks!

 

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