2003 Saturn Ion - Alternator/Charging issue
#11
Seems to me that they're probably not being properly tested by the places selling them. They need to be load tested, same as a battery. Just hooking it up to a volt meter and checking the output voltage isn't a good way to test them. I used to test them under load for at least two minutes. That gave it time to operate properly. Best to test them while still on the car, if at all possible to get it to the parts store and HOPE you find someone that actually knows what the hell they're doing. I NEVER recommend a re-manufactured electrical component. New is ALWAYS the best route to go, especially if you plan on keeping and driving the car yourself.
#12
Per Rube,
The cost of a NEW quality alternator is usually only about $30 more (for an S car anyway)
However, super cheap new usually = crap. It's only that cheap because the parts inside are low quality and will not last very long.
But sometimes you don't have a choice.
When it comes down to it, a reman anything is only as good as the quality of parts used and the knowledge imparted during reassembly.
Anyone can rebuild an ACDeclo alternator -- it's a question of using quality replacement parts and are they assembling it properly.........
The cost of a NEW quality alternator is usually only about $30 more (for an S car anyway)
However, super cheap new usually = crap. It's only that cheap because the parts inside are low quality and will not last very long.
But sometimes you don't have a choice.
When it comes down to it, a reman anything is only as good as the quality of parts used and the knowledge imparted during reassembly.
Anyone can rebuild an ACDeclo alternator -- it's a question of using quality replacement parts and are they assembling it properly.........
#13
So for both of you it ended up being the alternator and not the ECM? Im am having this problem with my daughters 2003 Ion, battery light intermittently coming on replaced the battery, the alternator is also not that old I replaced it about 7 or 8 months ago. My mechanic has the car now and states its charging intermittently, I just dont want to buy a new alternator if its a ECM, I just spent $150 pm a battery and $64 on a tow. Thanks for any advice!
#14
Yes. In my case I had 3 or 4 "rebuilt" alternators from autozone/o'reilly that were new off the shelf. All of them tested OK on the bench. In the car they would not charge. I put in a $150 new Napa/OEM-ish alternator and it has been working fine ever since. The guy at the auto electric place that I finally took it to says he's seen this many times where the junk from the discount stores just don't work with this silly on/off computer-controlled alternator system in Saturns and some of the same vintage Chevy's.
Most places will take it back for a full refund if that doesn't work for you. Same for the ECM. I got one from across the country that didn't fix it and I was able to get a full refund of $150 for that ECM.
Most places will take it back for a full refund if that doesn't work for you. Same for the ECM. I got one from across the country that didn't fix it and I was able to get a full refund of $150 for that ECM.
#15
Yes. In my case I had 3 or 4 "rebuilt" alternators from autozone/o'reilly that were new off the shelf. All of them tested OK on the bench. In the car they would not charge. I put in a $150 new Napa/OEM-ish alternator and it has been working fine ever since. The guy at the auto electric place that I finally took it to says he's seen this many times where the junk from the discount stores just don't work with this silly on/off computer-controlled alternator system in Saturns and some of the same vintage Chevy's.
Most places will take it back for a full refund if that doesn't work for you. Same for the ECM. I got one from across the country that didn't fix it and I was able to get a full refund of $150 for that ECM.
Most places will take it back for a full refund if that doesn't work for you. Same for the ECM. I got one from across the country that didn't fix it and I was able to get a full refund of $150 for that ECM.
#16
Suffice it to say that you usually get what you pay for. Definition of reman is that all defective parts are replaced to make a functional final product.
I'd be willing to bet that the module that detects the ECM signal was flaky on those alternators when they came in for rebuild. If it bench tests good then it ships. How are they bench testing it is the question. Minimum parts cost / rebuild equals maximum profit.
Either that or they are fixing it with the absolute dirt cheapest parts available, knowing full well that it will last less than a year.
I remember someone posted that they have replaced their starter from AutoZone 5 * in 5 years but that it didn't cost them anything extra because each had a lifetime warranty. I asked if he needed to lean on the warranty 5 *, was it really that good a part.
I'd be willing to bet that the module that detects the ECM signal was flaky on those alternators when they came in for rebuild. If it bench tests good then it ships. How are they bench testing it is the question. Minimum parts cost / rebuild equals maximum profit.
Either that or they are fixing it with the absolute dirt cheapest parts available, knowing full well that it will last less than a year.
I remember someone posted that they have replaced their starter from AutoZone 5 * in 5 years but that it didn't cost them anything extra because each had a lifetime warranty. I asked if he needed to lean on the warranty 5 *, was it really that good a part.
#17
I ordered an OEM radiator today from the Ford dealer for a 2006 truck. I don’t like the aftermarket radiators for our Diesel Ford trucks. I have had transmission cooler hoses and radiator hoses come off due to incorrect barbs on the fittings. We keep our trucks almost forever and the OEM parts last and fit like they should. With what my time and truck and crew down time costs buying OEM parts are cost effective.
Shop for deals but use quality parts.
Shop for deals but use quality parts.
#18
Alternator from Advance didnt work, brand new out of the box! Had to get another alternator somewhere else, but it did fix the problem. Last alternator wasnt even a year old!
#19
I recently ran into that situation with my neighbors 2000 F-250 with a diesel engine. I noticed he was charging his batteries every couple of days and offered to check the alternator. It was putting out 12.3 volts. I told him it was no good. His wife came home with a "Duralast Gold" from the Zone. I swapped them out and checked it. Output was 13.2. I called their tech line and dude said it was no good. The one I took off had come from NAPA in Canada. I called the local NAPA and lady there said as long as they could verify it was NAPA, they'd swap it for a new one. We did that, I put THAT one on and it's cranking 14.9 V. He's happy, I'm happy my fishing ride is fixed and he got his money back on the junky Zone alternator. These chain store alternators are pretty much pieces of crap out of the box. If something happens to my Kia, I will buy a genuine Kia alternator. I'm not taking any chances with electrical parts from any of the chain stores anymore. It's gotten way out of hand.
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