super stiff new clutch
so i just finished the engine swap for the 99 sc1. i put in a new clutch also figuring might at well and when i started it up it was so stiff i broke the clutch petal link. any clue what i did wrong?
Your right that nothing but the pedal moved—The rod bent. I tried hammering it straight, but then the cylinder wouldn't budge even when I put all my weight on it. The transmission side works fine. I ordered a new part, but it still doesn't make sense. I replaced that part about two years ago, and it sat for the past year. It was working fine to move the car to swap engines. I'll try the shifter tomorrow after work.
I am no transmission expert, but something is bound up or the hydraulics have failed and there is no hydraulic pressure to separate the pressure plate from the flywheel.
The alternative is of course something internal to the transmission like a throw out bearing being frozen, the fork being hung up and not being able to move the clutch plate, or any number of incorrectly or misaligned installed parts. When my slave cylinder failed on my S car, the clutch pedal still moved, but the piston on the slave wasn't extending far enough to separate the clutch from the flywheel. The result while it was still drivable was that I could not get it to switch between gears very easily and had to keep it pumping it to build up enough pressure to shift. When I got home and parked it, The next day I came out and started troubleshooting. I went to put the shifter in neutral and it was absolutely pinned in first gear. The clutch pedal travel was fine but it did nothing. It took both hands and a lot of leaning backwards to get the thing back in neutral.
Whatever you do, do not build up excessive crazy pressure in the hydraulics system. If the innards of the transmission will not move, if that pedal does move, the only relief for that pressure is the hydraulic system and if it does hold pressure, you will explode either the master or slave cylinder. And they simply don't exist anymore. Except on freshly crashed vehicles that enter junk yards.
The alternative is of course something internal to the transmission like a throw out bearing being frozen, the fork being hung up and not being able to move the clutch plate, or any number of incorrectly or misaligned installed parts. When my slave cylinder failed on my S car, the clutch pedal still moved, but the piston on the slave wasn't extending far enough to separate the clutch from the flywheel. The result while it was still drivable was that I could not get it to switch between gears very easily and had to keep it pumping it to build up enough pressure to shift. When I got home and parked it, The next day I came out and started troubleshooting. I went to put the shifter in neutral and it was absolutely pinned in first gear. The clutch pedal travel was fine but it did nothing. It took both hands and a lot of leaning backwards to get the thing back in neutral.
Whatever you do, do not build up excessive crazy pressure in the hydraulics system. If the innards of the transmission will not move, if that pedal does move, the only relief for that pressure is the hydraulic system and if it does hold pressure, you will explode either the master or slave cylinder. And they simply don't exist anymore. Except on freshly crashed vehicles that enter junk yards.
turns out it was the clutch cylinder, swap it out and that's now good. now I'm getting white smoke out the tailpipe. What's the head torque procedure. I got a digit manual I followed but I want to make sure I did it right.
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timmerz
Saturn S Series Sedan
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Jul 7, 2011 06:28 AM



