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I installed the trans cooler yesterday; assembled and routed the cooler lines. I originally routed the trans cooler lines based off of what the Ranger had. I failed to realize that the Crown Vic radiator core support is a different shape and was never intended to be used for that purpose. The result is wonky hose routing. I will run it this way for now (if it doesn't leak); but I will bend up new lines and route them differently to clean it up.
I also just got done modifying/cutting the upper radiator hose to fit a temperature sender collar for the electric fan. I used this method on my '91 Ranger when I converted to an electric fan. I didn't like the idea of poking the supplies temp sender through the radiator fins. What I failed to realize is that the upper radiator port and the T-stat housing port are 2 different sizes. The hose tapers down to a smaller size before it gets to the T-stat housing. My temp sender collar is the same [larger] size as the upper radiator port. So I used a heat gun to heat up the hose and then pressed the collar into the hose while it was still hot. Took some effort, but it eventually went in. I will mock that side of the hose up on Tuesday and then see how much of the other side I have to cut to get the rest of the upper rad hose to line up with with the T-stat housing. I will get pictures of that when I finish up.
Also, I will mock up my home-made CAI (pvc pipe and joints connected to the throttle body on one end; and the MAF sensor on the other end) and see where I have to drill and tap the new ECT sensor location. Then I will hopefully have some wiring to do next weekend.
Now that I have looked at this a bit; I might be able to get the tubing bender in there and bend the hot line 45* toward the slot on the bottom of the radiator core support; where the return line is running through. That will make it a little cleaner.
And that's what I did this morning between meetings. Bent the tube towards the opening and routed the hose through it. Looks cleaner now; still going to reroute everything in the future.
And since the meeting was postponed for an hour; I messed with the upper radiator hose. Discovered the stock upper radiator hose won't fit a standard 351W T-stat housing. I guess Ford put a smaller T-stat housing port on the Crown Vics. I will check with the local stores to see if they have 1.5" coolant hose. If not them; Pegasus Racing.
And and; I started wiring the electric fan since the upper rad hose was a no go. I found a place for the Painless 70A fuse since I don't trust the 40A fuse the fan came with. Next weekend I will permanently wire up the fan power, ground, and signal wires. Then I will put up my custom CAI and relocate the ACT sensor. I can see a tiny light at the end of the tunnel now
Did a bit of wiring over the past 2 weeks. Wired up the starter with leftover 2AWG I had in the basement and 12AWG for the signal wire. Moved over to the electric fan and ran the signal wire and the temp probe; which I used the Flex-a-Lite temp switch/sender threaded into an inline collar in the upper radiator hose. Moved across to the alternator and sorted that out. Discovered that I will not be using any of the stock wiring as the Powermaster alternator has its own wiring. Just needed to solder the signal wire to the main harness. Oh, I have since heat-shrinked and rerouted the alternator charge cable. I may replace that with 2AWG at some point.
Last weekend I drained the oil and WD-40 mixture that was in there. Nearly 4 gallons came out because I had been spraying the cylinders and rotating the crank each month since I got the engine back. Currently looking for a piece of the AOD shift linkage. I am missing the rod that connects the shift lever on the AOD to the shift linkage body. I remember removing it; just dunno what happened afterwards. I dropped the exhaust in order to bolt the shift linkage to the frame; so I decided to install the electric cutouts to see what needs clearancing to make them fit. The driver side has the smallest of gaps between the cutout and the floor pan. The passenger side will not line up with the header collector with the cutout installed. So next weekend I will get the jack and a small piece of wood and create the clearance I need for that side; might do the other side as well. And if I have enough time; I will install the dipstick or at least route it accordingly; maybe paint it before final installation.
Starter solenoid isn't bothering me; it's the circuit breaker box attached to it. I discovered it's the power window breaker switch and I can't find a replacement anywhere. I will have to figure out some way to replace it. I see all that rust and wonder if it's working properly. I have 2 spare starter solenoids in the toolbox in case this one goes. During the last days of the original engine; it started blowing solenoids and didn't figure out why. Hopefully that problem is solved.
