^^^^^^^^^^^^^I may end up doing that.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I was inspecting the fuel pump relay whilst pulling the other relays last night and found that my fuel pump relay was kinda cruddy. Then I remembered that I didn't change that out because I had already done so 12 years ago when the fuel pump went south. So I gave the connector and the relay a good blast of contact cleaner and let them dry overnight. I will apply the dielectric grease some time today and plug them back in. I noticed that on the connector end; one of the tabs that hold the terminals in place had broken off. I will hold that wire when I go to plug that back into the relay. If I have the time, I will power up the system and see what I got.. In the meanwhile, I will look for 25 amp relays and matching connectors to replace the fuel pump relay in case that connector becomes a problem.

 

Is that a different tablecloth on the kitchen table?

If those pins don't engage you will indeed have problems. Not unlike the connector you cleaned above. The receiving tabs seem to be not quite aligned which is not always a problem depending on how big the pins actually are.
So if the connector for the fuel pump relay is not secure, I would think it would eventually become a problem. But holding it on to see if the car starts is one thing, if you let go and installs then you know what you need to do

 

Yes, that is the early spring table cloth. These Dollar Store table cloths don't last too long; especially when I am working on them

Yah, the accessory relay had a broken pin and the terminal wire had broken off the connector. I ended up crimping on a new terminal and replacing that relay. I should pull that apart and take a look at it. I did steal some time last night to power up the Crown Vic and discovered the situation didn't change; still no fuel pump and no bumping the starter with the key. So I am thinking of disconnecting the A9P ecm and cracking it open to see if the capacitors for those circuits are not burned out. Even though it's a remanufactured unit; I may have burned it out when the ground connector came off of the battery. If this is not the case and the ecm is in good shape; I might send it out to be looked at anyways; as other components could be damaged. Beyond that, I have no idea what to do with this car. I have a friend who has a Banks ecm that he's willing to let go of for a decent price. I may look into that option as well.

 

So I am 2 weeks out from doing the full exhaust on my DD Grand Marquis. Kinda excited about that; even though I know the difficulty of pulling 17 year old hardware off of an engine. Hopefully I don't snap any exhaust manifold studs during the process. If I am successful, I would like to see if that results in a bump in mpg's; like I observed in past vehicles. Also, this will help clear my parent's basement of some unused car parts. I will do my best to get pics of the process.

 

Soak all nuts and bolts in amsoil mp (metal protector) for a few days. I can get you the hook up.
part of me still wants to say pb blaster. Since I still have a few cans I am still using it. Its also awesome.

 

I agree with Billy 100%. And if you don't have either product on hand, use what you DO have.

 

I've had others tell me that Kroil lays waste to everything else. I bought one can, it being obscenely expensive. I'm afraid to use it because it is so expensive and there will be less in the can.

Any opinions on it?

 

I used Liquid Wrench this time around. When I botched the exhaust and had to get different mufflers for the Crown Vic; I knew that I was going to use the rejected Dynomax Super Turbos on the Grand Marquis. That was mid-2020. Later that year when I worked from home for a month; I started soaking the exhaust manifold studs on the Grand Marquis every few weeks. I was doing that up until a month ago when we had some health issues. I just went out there and soaked the studs a few hours ago. I'm hoping the repeated soakings and heat cycles during this time will coax the studs off.

That was the method for my Malibu, the 390FE that came out of the F-350 and later went into my '53 F-250, the Crown Vic, and the Chevy C20 (Putter Project). All with various degrees of success. I used some industrial stuff that my Dad got from one of his jobs on the Malibu. Though I can't tell you how good that stuff was as those manifolds came off easy. Which made me suspicious that was not the original engine in that car (later confirmed when I changed the front crank seal). I used Kroil on the 390FE, the Crown Vic, and Putter Project. The 390FE was the hardest to get apart. That engine was 31 years old at the time and only had 30k on the odometer; so the bolts were rusted up some. That took 3 weekends to get apart. The Crown Vic and Putter Project were a little easier as they were daily drivers.

Since I still have not returned my Harbor Freight compressor that died last year; I will take the Explorer to work tomorrow and grab the spare DeWalt compressor we have in storage; and use that for this task. I'm hoping the small air ratchet will get the job done without breaking any studs. We'll see.....................

 

derf, I've used Kroil for years on a LOT of rusted nuts and bolts. My Dad and uncle swore by it because they were both pipefitters and used it on the job for decades. They both used it on their cars and other things and so have I. I don't know where you got that information that it lays waste to other things, but personally, I've never witnessed that at all. Just use it on the things that are rusted and don't get carried away with it.

 

Perhaps Derf meant that Kroil out performs other brands when he said it lays waste to other things? That's how I read it. Though, when I read that post again; it does sorta sound like "Sympathy for the Devil" LOL