😀👍😂
I keep that pump and the green o-ring on the shelf.

 

Speaking of pumps; I had an issue with my OEM Tools oil pump priming tool that I initially used. You can see in the pic below, the tool has a shiny end (not supposed to be that way). That is the end going into the drill chuck; which is round. That is a problem when your oil pump spins counter-clockwise. Despite catching it loosening up (drill would be spinning, but the tool would stop spinning) and repeatedly retightening the chuck; the tool still managed to ream itself out a bit. I only happened to notice after seeing small metal bits on the aluminum disc that goes over the distributor well opening. When I stopped and removed the tool from the drill, the chuck was full of metal bits. I hope none of that found its way into the oil pump cavity.

The other pic is the Comp Cams oil pump priming tool. You can barely see with my poorly shot pic, that the end that goes into the drill chuck is squared-off a bit. This should prevent the galling that was present on the other tool; very annoyed. So, if any of you are rebuilding your Ford Windsors (or any engine), don't get the OEM Tools primer; or at least make sure the tool you're getting is squared off.

 

So much for the top middle VC bolt not leaking. Noticed a wiff of burning oil on my way to work today [Merc has a sheet metal screw in the front tire ]. Sure enough when I pop the hood, I see some oil on the lower corner of the valve cover flange. I will retighten the valve cover bolts on that side and see what comes of it. The Explorer still runs like a champ though; so I can't complain.

 

Feeling a bit manic today. I found this pic of the rear end build for the Crown Vic. Gutted and cleaned it outside; painted it with POR15 and blue DuPont caliper paint in the basement; assembled it and attempted to carry it out of the basement. Gutted; it was light enough to carry; fully loaded, it was too much and I had to gut it again and assemble it under the car. Don't know what changed, but I couldn't get the teeth aligned like I had it in the basement. Ended up towing the car across town to a Sunoco station where a mechanic who raced Fox bodies was working at the time. He set it up and my Mom was on her way. Unfortunately it didn't take long for all of that to get oiled down by the original engine.

 

I got a little time yesterday with the Crown Vic. I discovered that the repaired fusible link wasn't passing power. That one had the fusible link right behind the ring terminal fitting. I was able to work with the nub of wire going to it; but I may have broken the fuse when I crimped the terminal on. I got delayed by dinner, so I couldn't test the new fusible link. I have a meeting shortly, but right afterwards I am going out to test the other fusible links. Asking my fellow Panther owners on another forum to see if they know the amperage of those fusible links. I don't want to assume they're the same as the 30A circuit breaker that shares the same power feed.

 

I'm an idioso! I thought my Message Center was broken on the Explorer. I would change the oil and attempt to reset the computer. A few minutes after firing it up, it tells me to change the oil. Very annoying as I couldn't see any other information other than that. Discovered that I only did half of the procedure and in the incorrect sequence to boot. Owners manual isn't as good as YouTube in explaining this. Properly reset the Message Center and the Change Oil light is no longer on.

As a bonus, I learned that I needed to train the tires when I changed them out. Which is a procedure in and of itself. So I will fire up the new compressor and do that in hopes that I can get that message off as well. Gone are the days when all one would do is do a tune-up and slap the summer/winter tires on and be on their way. Now you have to confer with the computer about everything that you do to that car :-/

 

The more I work on newer cars and trucks the more I like my 84 GMC pickup. Not one computer!

 

That was unsuccessful. I tried the tire train procedure and failed 3x; I think because the pen I used to depress the schrader valve kept slipping; and the resulting difference in pressure being released, I guess messed with the computer. The third time I tried, I failed at the front left tire (it's the 1st tire to train) after being successful the other times. I started getting that Hulk smash feeling and had to walk away and do something else.

After that, I was going to mess with the Crown Vic, but I still felt like smashing something, and with all the electrical trouble that car is giving me, I decided to wait a day and do some cleaning in the house. I'm going to also look for a small punch with a flat-top that will fit the tire valve a bit better than the pen. Hopefully today is a more progressive day.

 

I got a tiny bit of time with the CV yesterday evening whilst checking everything in the backyard. I forgot that I had the charger on the battery all weekend. I connected the battery cables and checked to see what other systems are working. The HVAC system works; the headlights and emergency flashers work (not the parking lights as I need to change the switch and plug out); and the horn works. So basically everything has power with the key on but the relays and starter solenoid. So I am going to switch out the ignition switch for starters (pun intended) and move down from there.

 

I discovered a problem earlier this afternoon; which hopefully is THE problem. I got a Standard Products ignition lock cylinder and an ignition module from RockAuto figuring I would start with replacing those items. I pulled the lock cylinder out of the steering column and the electrical connector fell off of it in pieces. I'm hoping that is the problem; even though, the car was starting up just fine before I parked it. My problem now is when I went to install the replacement, it goes in partially and binds up before it goes in all the way. This is with the keyed part of the cylinder lock matched up with the keyed part of the steering column. I put the electrical connector back on the original cylinder and compared that to the Standard Products cylinder and noticed slight differences. I gave them to my Dad and with his machinist eyes, saw many small differences. So I am going to order another ignition lock cylinder from Autozone (they're still open) and hope that it might be a manufacturing defect. I will also look in LMR and see if the fox bodies use the same lock cylinder. The Crown Vic is fighting; but I will win........