Beginning to think about the full exhaust conversion for the Grand Marquis again. It's August already and I hope to get it done by the end of Fall. Just need to get the Crown Vic on the road before I do that. I've been soaking the exhaust manifold studs down with Liquid Wrench every 2 weeks since June; and will increase the frequency of soakings as I get closer to initiating that project. Just need to get the Stainless Works longtubes, O2 sensors, EGR valve and pipe (couldn't get it to budge when I swapped the intake manifold), and a Pypes X-pipe with the integrated cutouts. Everything else I have waiting in the basement; including a pair of gawdy '90s 4" Pacesetter resonated exhaust tips (I was young and gullable when I purchased them).

 

I didn’t know you could get pipes from Rock Auto, good to know. I hate rust!

 

The Rock Auto tailpipe is the stock replacement for the driver side. The larger pipe that it overlays is leftover 2.5" pipe from the Crown Vic project. I cut the passenger side off of the Grand Marquis last year and made the other side of the tailpipes with that 2.5" piping. At $37 for the Rock Auto tailpipe; I figured that it would be nearly the same cost if I went to my pick and pull in south Jersey or went a few miles over to the auto salvage (not pick and pull) in the next town. I would have taken advantage of buying the complete Stainless Works system, but even their chambered muffler (supposed to be the quieter of the two) is too loud for my taste. I like my quiet large case Dynomax mufflers. And the SW system is expensive; can't justify spending $3k+ for a complete exhaust; on a daily driver.

 

Where in South Jersey are you? Do you know if junkyard row in Philly still exists? Used to go there with a buddy as a teenager and college student when I was home. Sometimes had to yell over the airport noise but every stall and yard was different. Some were actually artistic in my estimation.

 

I live up in north Jersey. I just have to travel to south Jersey to the pick n pulls because they seem to keep the older models longer. There is an auto salvage a few miles from me that is convenient; as long as your vehicle isn't older than 15 years. I've been to Harry's in Allentown PA; which was a nice place to get parts. The one I frequent the most is Red & Black in Jamesburg, NJ (exit 8A on I-95). But lately, they have been crushing the '80s Panther platform Fords. Fortunately I have most of what I need for the Crown Vic; but I would like to get front and rear fenders as mine are rotting. And possibly cut the floor out of a '79 thru '88 Crown Vic or Grand Marquis to replace at least the rotted driver side floor in the Crown Vic.

 

I got the laptop situation sorted out. My new Lenovo is great; it even recognized the SDTI driver when I loaded the tuning software and driver. I played around with TunerPro and got it setup and working. But I'm still plagued with electrical woes. I have power to the interior lights, radio works, and with the KOEO, my gauges twitch a little and light up. So I know at least that my factory and Painless fuse boxes are working. I just hae no power anywhere else. No relays clicking, no fuel pump running, and I still can't bump the starter with the key. So I am going to dig into my EVTM some more and start testing wires coming off of the fusible links. Also going to test the in-line circuit breaker (small rusty box running off the starter solenoid) and start looking for a spare unit. I will work my way up to the ignition switch. Don't know what else to do at this point. I am convinced that this car wants to stay retired.

 

Make sure to check all of your grounds, Bones. It might be that you overlooked a critical one?

 

I just had a hell of a round with my sons 2013 F150. Seems there is a KNOWN electrical problem with fuse #27 and the fuel pump. The damned fuse on his was melted into the socket and when he removed it, part of it stayed in the socket. I managed to get it out, but research showed a fuse relocation fix for it. I spent 4 hours on this POS checking the fuel module, fuel pump and the wiring. I got the relocation kit at the local dealership and did the procedure. Took about 2 hours, but as soon as I was done, he turned the key, I heard the pump and then he started it. He's a happy camper and so am I. I didn't want to get into replacing the fuel pump on this bastard. I hate this truck because everything under the hood seems to have a sharp corner on it. Today was the first time I've worked on it without leaving blood on it somewhere. I guess it's because it was all top work at the front of the engine.

 

Thread jack! About your F150 fuel pump fuse, overload and a crappy fuse from the factory. The fuse burning in the holder is the warning of impending fuel pump failure. Some consider the fuse reassigning a permanent repair. I consider the fuse reassignment and a pump replacement the correct repair. The truck probably has over 100k miles on it and it has been run low on fuel several times. The fuel cools the pump and the 09 and newer F150s have a pulse width modulated pump with no return line. I have a Ford fleet so ask me how I know.

 

Thanks for your input, Andy. I told Philip NOT to cancel the order for the fuel pump, but he's just as hard headed as his mom. Derf has talked to her on the phone before and can verify what I said. It has ALMOST 100,000 miles on it. I don't know how low he lets it get before putting fuel in it, as I've tried my best to tell him since he got a license to NEVER let one get below 1/4 tank. Once again, he's much more like his mother than he is like me. I will show him your warning and let him know that you maintain a fleet of Fords and you know these things. Doubtful that he'll listen, though.