Finally broke down and ordered the thing.

Getting the crate off of 42 ft delivery truck with a liftgate was still interesting. 7 ft by 4 ft on a pallet designed to be grabbed on the sides. Can't fit through the door with the long dimension crosswise. Had to put it diagonally with 3 ft hanging out over the lift gate, then as it came down, rotate it to keep from hitting the back lip of the truck. Then corralled with a floor jack on one side to be able to remove an additional pallet that had been added to stabilize the whole thing.

Got crate open, crowbar slid to the edge of the crate long ways, engaged the roller handle for moving it, turned it perpendicular to the crate, very slowly pulled it so that the edge in thecrate was right about to come out. Went to get something for it to land on when it unceremoniously dumped itself out of the crate onto my garage floor. No damage on either side.

Need to fill the hydraulics and do a little shimming. While doing the swimming I'm going to just have them be long aluminum plates that are wide enough for the wheels to roll on since my garage floor surface now has that texture to it. The level is not horrendously bad, I just don't want to have to think about something 4 ft in the air leaning too much

Bendpak MD6-XP midrise scissors lift

 

Yes, it's crooked on the floor.

Yes, I'll be taking care of that.

 

Awesome looking piece of equipment, derf. With you being so meticulous, I'm sure that sum beech will be perfectly level wherever you place it. How high is the lift on it? How much does it weigh?

 

Congratulations, I use my lift all the time.

 

We had a similar situation a couple months ago. We took delivery of 1.75 ton lead enclosure that was on a similarly sized pallet. In our case, one corner of the enclosure broke through the pallet and tilted the load. Took 1/2 hour to get it off of the truck (with 2 pallet jacks). Another 2 hours to figure out how to get it off of the pallet. Only solution I could think of was renting a gantry and using our 3 ton chainfall. But my Director hearing of the dilemma wanted to do the more destructive route (safely though). The solution was cutting the middle section of the pallet out so we can get a pallet jack under there with a couple 4x4s to lift/support the lead enclosure. Then we cut the sides off and stacked 2x4s under the casters. Then did a series of lifts and taking away layers of 2x4s until the lead enclosure was on the floor. Nobody at my job had a Sawz-All; so I brought mine from home. My Director was having all the fun with the Sawz-All. On a normal day, he is stuck in the office doing paperwork; so this was a good escape/task/therapy for him.

 

The crate came in at 1050 lb so a little bit under a thousand. It has three stops with the highest one being 42 or 48 in not counting the pads on the ends of the flippers that I have an attached yet. I have to remeasure with the aluminum underneath. Pretty sure all of my cars will make it to the top lock except the escape, which is always a pain in the *** no matter what the situation. I can push the lift further in and have the roof of the car skip past a structural beam and guarantee It goes to the highest stop, except for the escape because it has no trunk it's all flat on top.

Max load is 6,000 lb also known as 2.5 Saturn coupes

 

Can you back the Escape into the garage and make it work? Do you really need it up all the way?

I have decided to move my hoist about 30” closer to the door. I installed the hoist with a 24” bench attached to the side of the old garage. 16 years later I had the shop built over the hoist. I lost 8” to the inside of the new wall then I installed 48” commercial shelving using one for a bench. Now it is a pain to pull engines with the cherry picker, and I made the shop 24” longer than the slab. So it is time to move the hoist!

Just make sure that you work on your cars with the garage door closed. Your neighbor Karen will rat you out to the homeowners association.

 

Thank you for the information about your experiences. I have the ability to move a vehicle about 3 ft further forward and thus the lift 3 ft further forward in order for the entire vehicle to be past The beam in the garage. However, it puts the front of the vehicle into a nook that exists only on one side of the garage because of where the laundry room is. So it is extra deep on one side but I get trapped back there and can't get to my toolbox Plus I lose access to the front left of the vehicle. I'm trying to optimize the spot so that I don't have to worry about it changing level when I move it but it can be done.

Based on where I am locating it, I will need to have the garage door down to use everything but the first stop, as the open door is at a level about 7 in below the bottom of the beam. Not every job requires it to be all the way up and some are made easier by having it be lower like brake work. I just like to keep my options open.

My HOA rules state you may not work on your vehicle in the driveway. Can't have non-running vehicle in the driveway or on property I believe for more than 72 hours. No violation there.
My HOA rules say you cannot attach anything to the structure without architectural approval. My lift is portable and therefore not attached to the structure.
My HOA rules say you cannot operate a business out of your house that involves frequent additional traffic that would result in people having to park illegally to access your business. There is no parking on any township road as the roads are wide enough for two cars to drive on and that's it.
$150 fine if you are caught parking vehicles on the grass unless for good reason such as asphalt sealing.