Engine is going back in: connected the upper engine to transmission bolts, reinstalled the PS pump, A/C compressor, and belt tensioner.

Any tips on best method to install the torque converter bolts? They are a pain to get to and the last thing I want to do is drop one into the torque converter area such that I need to remove the engine just to get it out.

Once I get the torque converter bolts installed I can move on to the starter and alternator so that I can install the accessory belt, the the right side engine mount (needing to have the mount removed to install the belt is a real pain). Then I can lift the vehicle to install the lower engine to transmission mounting bolts. I may install the rear exhaust manifold prior to lifting so that I can install the exhaust system while it is up in the air but fortunately with the lift multiple trips up and down is not a major undertaking.

 

Engine installation is complete and engine runs, vehicle drives, etc. The brake rotors have a lot of rust to wear off and may need to be replaced but the vehicle does drive and stop okay. I need to check the fluids again after everything cools back down, the initial coolant fill level dropped significantly (low coolant warning) when the thermostat opened but once refilled it seems to be holding steady.

 

Good you saved another one!

 

A/C is not cooling. Initially I thought it was working, just not well so I checked and the charge pressure was low and I added R134 to bring the pressure back into range. Now it doesn't seem to be cooling at all. I am fairly sure the compressor turns on. Is there something that I am missing or may have messed up when I added charge?

 

What are the high and low side readings with the
Engine on, AC off
Engine on AC compressor clutch engaged.

much easier if someone operates the controls while you watch under the hood

 

I borrowed a gauge set from the auto parts store and it appears the compressor is not working:
A/C off - low side 20 psi, high side 25 psi
A/C on - low side 15 psi, high side 25 psi

So even though I have confirmed that the clutch is turning on and off when the A/C button is pushed it appears the compressor is not building any pressure.

I suspect that means the compressor is shot and I am not planning to replace it due to the cost but if there is something else that I can try I would greatly appreciate it.

 

With that low of a reading I doubt the compressor is turning on.
The system is low on refrigerant. With A/C off, both low and high side should read at least 75 PSI.
With a properly charged system when the compressor is on your readings should be around 35-40 low side and around 200-250 high side.

 

As a follow up. You should check closely for a leak.

 

Okay, thanks - I was wondering if the compressor was actually turning on although I believe the clutch is engaging (at least it was visually when I looked - but that was not when I was checking pressures).

I will add refrigerant and recheck the pressures while also checking for leaks.

 

Okay, I added refrigerant that brought the low side up to 50 psi with the compressor off ((high side the same - ~50 psi), and when I turn on the A/C the low drops to around 35 psi and the high rises to around 100 psi. I think that is about as high as I can get the low side with my refrigerant can (the gauge on the can is up to the yellow area - I suppose I could go further into the red area but not sure).

I tried cycling the A/C on-off a few times to see if the system pressures changed and they seemed pretty consistent. It takes a few seconds once the A/C button is turned on for the compressor to kick in and change the pressure readings.

I didn't identify any leaks and was pretty surprised how little refrigerant it took to get the pressure up to what it is now.

This vehicle sat for some time after the original engine failure before the engine replacement (the compressor was not disconnected, just removed from the engine and set aside) so it is possible the compressor vanes are stuck from sitting but I suspect that is being optimistic.