L300 Rebuild
 

I just purchased an L300 with the 3.0 V6 24 valve motor and approximately 125,000 miles that appears to have a broken timing belt that resulted in some bent valves.

I am looking for insight from the community regarding the selection of one of two approaches:
1 - pull the cylinder heads (engine in place), rebuild the heads, replace the timing belt (and water pump), and run it; or
2: pull the engine and do a complete rebuild

My first inclination is to take approach 2 but depending on how robust the bottom end of these motors are I may find approach 1 a better choice.

Plans for car are to provide to my grand daughter for driving to work/school so probably not a lot annual miles.

Any thought would be greatly appreciated.

WICruiser

I doubt there is any damage to the short block however this engine is much easier to repair hanging on an engine stand. A lot less bending over and lifting parts. The engines come out pretty easily and you can set the compressor to the side and leave the a/c charged and in place. The starter is hidden in the back, much easier on a hoist than on stands.

Does that engine come out easier from the top or bottom, Andy? I'm not gonna get one, just curious. Engine/trans combo removal or separate and leave trans in the car?

Andy, thanks for the insight. I agree that working on the engine on a stand is much easier but pulling the engine has its own challenges.

Charlie, you asked the question I was going to follow-up with. If I pull the engine I was hoping to pull it from the top, leaving the transmission in place. I do have a lift but would not want it tied up for the entire time I am working on the engine because I chose to drop the engine/transmission sub frame out the bottom.

I have pulled powertrains out of these cars both ways. It depends on what you need. On an automatic car the engine alone can come out the top, then you can roll the chassis out of the shop. On my stick shift L200 I pulled both out the top together. I have dropped a v6 complete out the bottom on the cradle on one that I junked the body. Just remember that you have to be able to slide the engine away from the transmission far enough to get the flex plate out of the bell housing. There is enough room but you may have to pull the balancer and be careful with the air conditioning tubes that run right there inside the frame rails. The fuse box is pretty easy to disassemble and remove, it splits into three harnesses that will lay out of the way. The exhaust is a little painful on the v6 but as long as your car is not too rusty it’s not bad. There are bolts on the back side that are a pretty long reach from the passenger side. The starter and a couple bell housing bolts from the engine side into the transmission. Good luck and have fun. I have a 2001 v6 in the same situation but it has a good transmission so I saved it. I also have a running 2001 v6 so if you need hard parts let me know.

I'd go ahead and pull it from the top, providing your garage has enough head clearance. I'd suggest getting the chain as tight as you can and still get the lift hook connected. Shorter, tighter chain on the engine allows more you to pull and clear the grille and core support without watching the boom arm so closely against the ceiling of the garage.

Thank you all for your insight.

I will plan to pull from the top, leave the automatic transmission in place as I have plenty of overhead clearance in my garage.

Does anyone have experience regarding the lower end of these engines? I typically would be replacing rod and main bearings, piston rings, etc. while I am going this far but it seems that the heads/cam timing are the weak areas of these engines and leaving the short block alone may be a viable option for a vehicle that may only have another 50-75,000 miles of expected life.

I have not had a bottom end of this particular v6 apart. I have seen them with 200,000 miles with proper timing belt maintenance. I would suspect that the bottom will be in nice shape. I would inspect then decide, always reseal the engine every time. Buy Felpro or OEM gaskets any other brands will leak in short order. The crankcase breather system seems problematic on this engine, no pcv valve just a separator in the valley.

Good luck, these are nice cars.

Thanks, that is exactly the insight I was looking for.

You’re welcome.