I am also planning to replace the spark plugs in the replacement engine prior to installation (they appear to be original). The original plugs were the triple electrode type, is there any experience with standard single tip platinum plugs in these engines? Just curious before I decide what to buy (parts store lists a wide variety of sigle or triple electrode options).

 

Most Saturn's run best on factory OEM plugs which I can almost guarantee you are not triple electrode 4 an L car.

People spend thousands of dollars trying to find a better plug for the Saturn S-Series vehicles. Clean old copper NGK every 36,000 miles. Why bother? Are you going to get an extra point seven five horsepower? Whatever. It's all smoke and mirrors

 

I'm in total agreement with derf. Run the factory OEM plugs for best service and you can't go wrong.

 

I understand the use of OEM plugs, the question remains were those the triple electrode version? I now have two engines, both which what appear to be OEM plugs, both triple electrode which appears to me to indicate that indeed these were the original OEM version but I am seeking some confirmation that I am not justifying my determination on a 2 for 2 anomaly. Typically I would have agreed with Derf that the triple electrode would not be an OEM plug but the 2 for 2 sample size I have says otherwise.

 

I am curious as to the brand of plug that you have.

 

After a circuitous journey across the internet, including GM's website with the owner's manual which gives the gap but apparently not the plug, I have determined with reasonable certainty that the OEM plug is a Bosch BSH FLR9LTE. (3.0L V6 2005)

Lo and behold, it looks as though they have multiple grounds and although I cannot see a third one oh, I believe it is behind the center electrode in the picture below.



RockAuto 2005 Saturn L series sedan OEM plug

Considering the origin of the engine is Opel, I am not surprised it is a Bosch.

They are $14.50 at AutoZone a piece.
$6.59 RockAuto. 10 pack is around $63.
$11.48 at Amazon or $40 for a 10 pack

Personally I have curbed my Amazon purchasing in today's economic climate to support pretty much any other business besides Amazon. It will survive the pandemic. Others may not.

I have been loyal to RockAuto as long as I have known about them which goes back to the 90s or early 2000s. I have found one and only one factual error on their website about any part I have ever looked up for any car in that amount of time

Their shipping sucks cost-wise but you get a magnet with a classic car on it so it's all worth it. Just make sure you buy a bunch of stuff that drives the dollar value of your order up and that doesn't come from different warehouses.

Enjoy

 

Yes, in fact both engines had Bosch/GM plugs with the triple electrode. I have used Rock Auto for several items over recent years but you are correct that you need to pay attention to the shipping.

I am in process of changing the timing belt and finding it a real challenge to get the timing correct on all the cams. The cam locking tool I borrowed from O'Reilly's would not engage the cams correctly because of the front cover bosses between each set of cams so that is not helping the overall process. In hind sight I should have marked the cams and crank for the correct position with the crank 60 degrees BTDC so that I could play with the belt and cams without the potential to have cams jumping and putting valves in jeopardy. Actually, now that I have things close I may park the crank at 60 BTDC and see if I can manipulate the cams/belt to get the timing correct.

I also decided to pull the oil filter while the engine was on the stand only to find the cover so tight that I broke the base trying to get it loose. I figured that would not be a problem as I have the original engine only to find that base was also broken. It seems this is a weak part of the design and wonder if anyone offers a spin on filter conversion kit for these engines. It seems like a conversion kit cost would be similar to a new base and avoid this failure point in the future.

 

First off I hope you are replacing the pulleys as well.
If so, what year is the engine you are working on,
The pulleys were changed slightly in mid year 2002.
Lastly get the correct tool kit to do this job.
It will locate the crank at TDC and hold the cams in place to route the belt.
Some cheap tool kits are available on Amazon for less than $100,
Also work from right to left (CCW)as you position the belt and cams

 

The car is a 2005 (last year for the L300) and yes I am replacing the pulleys as well. I bought the Gates timing belt kit that includes all of the pulleys, the belt and the bracket that retains the middle and spring loaded pulleys.

I think I have the timing correct now but in my constant state of paranoia I will probably check the timing two or three more times before I install the cover. Rotating the engine by hand using a ratchet produces a lot more "bounce" in the spring loaded idler than I would have expected but at least it is a spring loaded idler rather than a fixed idler.

 

I replaced the oil filter housing and spark plugs (Bosch/GM triple electrode version). Getting ready to install the engine back into the chassis and start the reassembly process.

I picked up new radiator hoses and accessory drive belt to install as part of the reassembly.