AC stop leak in a can -- anyone used it?
#15
Derf,
I work on commercial A/C for a living so I have never used the stop leak. However, Being in this business for 35+ years I do have some experiance with auto A/C. Your leak very well could be in the evaporator but a leak can and very often will be in the compressor seal on a car this age. There is a seal (O ring) on the compressor shaft that will deteriorate over the years, usually from lack of use as the refrigerant oil keeps it soft. I have found that dye does not always appear when these seals leak.
Best to replace the compressor if you do find a leak in it.
I work on commercial A/C for a living so I have never used the stop leak. However, Being in this business for 35+ years I do have some experiance with auto A/C. Your leak very well could be in the evaporator but a leak can and very often will be in the compressor seal on a car this age. There is a seal (O ring) on the compressor shaft that will deteriorate over the years, usually from lack of use as the refrigerant oil keeps it soft. I have found that dye does not always appear when these seals leak.
Best to replace the compressor if you do find a leak in it.
#16
OK derf,
Just talked to a friend of mine who does auto A/C work. He stated (as you probably know) pulling the evap. to see if it is leaking is a very big job. If your evaporator is leaking you can tell by (depending on the amount and type of dye being used, UV is best but requires goggles and special light) you should be able to see samples of the dye in the condensation from the car or the actual end of the drain tube. UV will also be visible at the compressor shaft but other types are very difficult to see at the shaft. While he is not an advocate of the sealer he said if your compressor shaft is leaking the sealer may well seal the o rings and stop the leak, for how long he has no idea. He said, drain the system, do not draw a vacuum because if there is a leak you will draw atmosphere via the leak. add the "exact" amount of R134A required plus your sealer. Before checking the charge, run your A/C now and check the suction line for temperature. If it is very cold to the touch yet you are getting poor cooling you have issues with the "blend doors". Other wise, do the drain and refill with sealer then run the A/C for a while. It may seal the compressor for you.
Hope this helps.
Just talked to a friend of mine who does auto A/C work. He stated (as you probably know) pulling the evap. to see if it is leaking is a very big job. If your evaporator is leaking you can tell by (depending on the amount and type of dye being used, UV is best but requires goggles and special light) you should be able to see samples of the dye in the condensation from the car or the actual end of the drain tube. UV will also be visible at the compressor shaft but other types are very difficult to see at the shaft. While he is not an advocate of the sealer he said if your compressor shaft is leaking the sealer may well seal the o rings and stop the leak, for how long he has no idea. He said, drain the system, do not draw a vacuum because if there is a leak you will draw atmosphere via the leak. add the "exact" amount of R134A required plus your sealer. Before checking the charge, run your A/C now and check the suction line for temperature. If it is very cold to the touch yet you are getting poor cooling you have issues with the "blend doors". Other wise, do the drain and refill with sealer then run the A/C for a while. It may seal the compressor for you.
Hope this helps.
#17
C6,
Thank you for your wealth of info!! I have a UV light and goggles so I can check the drain tube area. I will also poke around the compressor a bit closer (even though the seal is internal).
I've actually made a point of running the AC in the winter on all my cars to keep all the rings from drying out but anything's possible.
I don't believe it to be a blend door issue as I always have gotten ice cool air once fully recharged.
I understand your point about not wanting to suck in air during a system evap, but I have found it very difficult in the last few years to get the system to accept any refrigerant when it's full of air. When some one evacs it first it goes nice and smooth -- and yes they are adding the oil.
Thanks again and I'll keep you all posted
Thank you for your wealth of info!! I have a UV light and goggles so I can check the drain tube area. I will also poke around the compressor a bit closer (even though the seal is internal).
I've actually made a point of running the AC in the winter on all my cars to keep all the rings from drying out but anything's possible.
I don't believe it to be a blend door issue as I always have gotten ice cool air once fully recharged.
I understand your point about not wanting to suck in air during a system evap, but I have found it very difficult in the last few years to get the system to accept any refrigerant when it's full of air. When some one evacs it first it goes nice and smooth -- and yes they are adding the oil.
Thanks again and I'll keep you all posted
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