Hello. I recently changed my timing belt and my valve cover gaskets. I had help from a "mechanic"
I had to remove the intake manifold upper and lower to get the rear valve cover gasket. I put in new plugs and after putting it back together, we 1st had misfires all cylinders. The "mechanic" didn't listen to me and i ended up resetting the timing belt myself. When cold, after it comes down from high idle, it "surges" or hunts up and down. When it warms up, it idles just fine, and runs great.
Any ideas.

 

Oh, he also didn't listen to me and use my torque wrench to tighten upper and lower manifold. and jackass used gasket maker in addition to the intake gaskets!!! So much for him helping me!!

2007 saturn Vue 3.5 liter honda engine

 

Probably needs an idle relearn routine.

Torque values are just estimates. They're really not very important. And if you're not confident in your work, by all means smear permatex where the application does not call for it.

In all seriousness, some people who do the work do it the way they've always done it. The fact that the technology in the vehicles, gaskets, etc has advanced doesn't necessarily mean that they keep up with how to handle the newer-ish cars. Many things stay the same but many do not.

 

Found this out there, not sure it is correct but does hint at the need for an idle relearn to be performed. Also don't know if you pulled the threat of body in which case it would definitely need to be done.

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There is also an idle learn procedure that must be performed after timing belt replacement or PCM replacement.
Install a scan tool.
2. Diagnose and repair any DTCs before proceeding with this procedure. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle for the applicable DTC that set.
3. Ensure that all electrical loads and accessories are OFF.
4. Turn OFF the air conditioning.
5. Ensure that the vehicle is in PARK or NEUTRAL.
6. Turn ON the ignition.
7. Clear the DTC information with the scan tool.
8. Wait 5?Seconds and start the engine.
9. Operate the engine with no load at 3,000?RPM until the ECT reaches 90°C (194°F).
Important: If the engine cooling fan turns ON during the idle portion of this procedure, do not include the fan run time in the total idle time.

10. Let the engine idle with the THROTTLE CLOSED and the engine cooling fan OFF, for a total of 5 minutes.
11. The PCM has a new learned idle position.
12. The idle learn procedure is required when the following service procedures have been performed:
The throttle body assembly is replaced
The throttle valve is cleaned

 

Thanks, Derf, I'll try this. I had the whole upper and lower part of intake manifold off. Cleaned it really well. tried to be extra careful while doing so, so i don't believe I f'd anything up with maf(p) sensor.
I know the timing belt is spot on, 'cuz I had to redo it myself! Just glad nothing damaged. I had a heck of a time setting the cam timing on the left side (firewall). It wanted (did) jump due to compression? Even with spark plugs removed. Like I said, when she warms up, runs great
I don't know why I love this stupid SUV so much. Yes, I do, it's paid for!!!

The "mechanic" also "helped" me with the valve cover gaskets which he also put gasket material on! People I've talked to said this is a no no.
Do you think there would be any harm in torquing the bolts after the fact?
I was trying to help this "mechanic" out and hoping he would speed up my down time, but I should have just told him I was all set. I am pretty good at troubleshooting, because I ask questions!
I've been a control tech my whole life.

 

For the valve cover, if it's not leaking

I would either leave it alone until it starts leaking or
Pull it off, throw away the gasket, get a new one and clean the surfaces that mate --- the top edge of the head and the edge of the valve cover. Make sure not to gouge any metal out of either of the surfaces or you create a built-in leak that the gasket will never seal. I use a razor blade and take my freaking time. I never use a brand new razor blade because I tend to get a little too intense and would otherwise potentially cause damage but that's just me. I always wipe the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol during cleaning of the permatex as it seems to dissolve it just enough to be able to scrape underneath it and remove it. I'm assuming the valve cover gasket sits in a groove of the valve cover itself. Make sure you don't stretch it when you put it in or you will end up with extra at the end and that is definitely a problem. only push down when you are putting the gasket in place.

I then clean with isopropyl alcohol right before putting the two together.

Cannot stress the importance of not overtorquing the valve cover bolts. Use your torque wrench and tighten them in the factory stated order to get the cover on as flat as possible. Overtorquing is those bolts tends to deform the gasket and create leaks or make existing leaks worse. The only case for doing it is if they were not torqued up to spec in the first place.

The throttle position sensors on these cars today are so sensitive that when they are perturbed by cleaning or replacement, the computer does not know exactly where the throttle plate is for a given voltage from the sensor. So the relearn basically has you heat up the engine, then let the car sit and idle while I assume it collects data as to where the throttle plate is versus throttle position sensor voltage versus what the idle speed should be. Once it gets an average based on enough data, it should be fine.

Can timing slipping sounds scary for a new timing belt. Did he not install it correctly, as in he installed it one tooth off, or did it slip on its own? I'm a timing chain guy and have never messed with a timing belt, but it makes me wonder whether the equivalent of the cam timing gear sprockets might be worn or whatever serves as the tensioner May be failing.

Did you replace all of the timing related components or just the belt? I am not implying what else you might have wanted to replace. I'm opposing the question for the next forum member to pick up this thread and further delve into the details of this.

 

Did the relearn procedure... Seems a little better, but not too sure. Going to do it again tomorrow.
Yep, replaced water pump, idlers, tensioner. Bought the kit on eBay. To be honest, the stuff I took out looked pretty good (and better). Also put in new spark plugs. I didn't know the history of the car, so I wanted to start with timing belt before sinking any more money in her. Mileage just turned 210000. No slipping...The rear (firewall) cam was off a few teeth. He started on the wrong cam installing it, I think.
We started it up, took it for a ride and it ran well, I think, because we are in the boonies and the only test drive is on a state highway. I parked it, went out a couple hours later and she had trouble starting and idling. Put the code reader and got all cylinder's misfiring. So, I redid the timing belt myself while the "mechanic" was off to work.
I had a friend who had an older Hyundai that he religiously changed timing belt at the specified intervals and had 350000 miles on it! (Mostly highway miles, it was his commuter form NH to MA where we worked).

Now knowing that she technically will be good for another 50000(?) miles I can spend some money on her knowing it will be well spent. Or, as my neighbor said, maybe i should drive it till it dies! I'm a tinkerer, always have been.