I just did this job today, here are all the tools I used:

sockets:
13mm for alternator B+ cable connector nut (12mm on the new alternator strangely)
12mm alternator upper bolt
12mm alternator bracket bolt
14mm alternator lower bolt

10mm for air box removal
10mm for air tube
8mm for hose clamps
8mm for unhooking battery terminals


15mm for passenger motor mount to engine block bolts

18mm for the motor mount through hole bolt
18mm deep socket for front motor mount through-hole nut + 3 extensions and a U-joint to easily get to the nut

19mm or a 3/4" socket + bolt + nut + 2 sturdy washers for compressing alternator and alternator mount bushings!
This is a must have, those bushings will make installing the new alternator impossible. See it in action here: A stubby wrench was very useful for this step as well (depends on the bolt you use)


Other tools:

14mm wrench to push the belt tensioner pulley (I had to lock together a second wrench for extra leverage, that thing is hard to move!). I would consider getting or renting a belt tensioner tool on a second go around

a small bolt, screwdriver or Allen key for the tensioner pulley. The tensioner has a hole to place a bolt or screwdriver in to keep it pulled back and give you access to the alternator bolts. You'll see it when you push the tensioner back - this saves you having to remove the tensioner pulley.

a really small socket extension, you only got a few inches to work with sometimes so having an extra tiny extension was really useful


Loctite 243 or Permatex surface insensitive medium blue threadlocker for motor mount bolts

a dab of silicone dielectric grease around alternator plug and connector boots

can of air duster

floor jack with a piece of wood on it to fit under engine oil pan when lifting engine up

mechanics mirror for checking tight spots a bit easier

good light!

I also used a 12-1/2 x 18-3/4 in. foam 'Kneeling Pad' over the side of the engine compartment to make leaning into the workspace much more comfortable.

a few pairs of pliers, short and long to help unhook cables

torque wrench for final torquing all the bolts.

24" strongarm/breaker bar. Must have, these guys are your best friends!

disposable gloves

patience


Overall it was quite a cramped fit, but using this gentleman's method here of taking off the front motor mount bolt (which lets you move the engine higher) made the job quite a bit easier to do I found. The extra space makes it easy to take the alternator out. I removed the passenger side through-hole bolt and mount to engine block bolts since I was replacing the mount on mine as well, not sure if that is easier than removing the frame bolts like he does. I also didn't take off my tensioner pulley, I found there was enough space with it pulled back and held in place by the allen key. I also had a clip with wires extending down to the AC attached on the back of my old alternator which complicated unhooking it from the vehicle as I hadn't expected it to be there; just be careful before you go yanking anything too much.

The biggest issue I had was those darn bushings on the alternator bracket AND my new alternator, it made installing the new alternator impossible. I tried moving the bracket bushings with a hammer but it wouldn't budge. I was stumped but that video I linked saved the day, the socket and bolt/washer trick mentioned worked like butter. It was honestly stupid how easy it moved those bushings, lol. The right tool makes all the difference!

Take your time, have patience and good luck! It's not the most difficult repair in the world, just the access is a mess which complicates everything.