Airconditioning Issue
#11
04-18-2015, 12:04 PM
$1800? Really?
If I was closer I would say buy the parts off rock auto.
Buy me a 6-pack and some control arm bushings for my redline and I would do the work for you.
That would probably cost less than $800 for everything. If I went and looked, probably even cheaper than that.
That is utterly insane. For that price you can buy a car with working normal a/c, get a clutch done, a timing chain done. GEEZ
If I was closer I would say buy the parts off rock auto.
Buy me a 6-pack and some control arm bushings for my redline and I would do the work for you.
That would probably cost less than $800 for everything. If I went and looked, probably even cheaper than that.
That is utterly insane. For that price you can buy a car with working normal a/c, get a clutch done, a timing chain done. GEEZ
#12
04-18-2015, 11:09 PM
If a mechanic quotes me $1800 to fix the A/C on my vehicle, I start going with the windows down, lol... I can buy whole cars for way less that work fine... Hell, I paid $2500 for my hopped up Redline...
#13
04-19-2015, 04:02 AM
It is not going to hurt you at this point in time then, to go by Walmart (to pick just one out let and there are certainly others) and buy two cans of R134 and a gauge for a total price of about $30.00 and it will allow you to install refrigerant in the high side port by following the instructions that comes with the gauge.
As the A/C works as you say, sort of and here in Arizona where it already has been over 90 degrees a few days so far this month, a working A/C is a must.
I am sorry to those who are better than I am at A/C diagnostics, but frankly that is all I use to work on my A/C units with and I have yet to have a problem doing so.
I convert from Freon to R134 on older units by doing little more than installing R134 and I keep my newer ones working by verifying that the high side pressure is in the green zone of the $10.00 gauge.
As you have made a decision that says it works o.k. as it is?
A better grade of o.k., can be done by using the cheap gauge and a can of R134. A compressor that is worn out completely will not work at all,
One that is or might be tired? Can work better if the quantity of refrigerant is correct.
I am constantly being told by refrigeration experts that what I do can not be done, and I repeatedly ignore them and do it.
And when I finish the VINTAGE air install on my Javelin I will fill it that way, and when I finish assembling my Hornet A/C which will be and is a mix of Chevrolet, AMC dealer install vintage 1977 parts and vintage air adapters, I will fit it also the same way after I install the correct amount of oil in the GM R4 "muffin" compressor. The point? If it works for $18.00 vs $1800.00 you have beat the system.
And you really have to screw up to hurt it that way.
As the A/C works as you say, sort of and here in Arizona where it already has been over 90 degrees a few days so far this month, a working A/C is a must.
I am sorry to those who are better than I am at A/C diagnostics, but frankly that is all I use to work on my A/C units with and I have yet to have a problem doing so.
I convert from Freon to R134 on older units by doing little more than installing R134 and I keep my newer ones working by verifying that the high side pressure is in the green zone of the $10.00 gauge.
As you have made a decision that says it works o.k. as it is?
A better grade of o.k., can be done by using the cheap gauge and a can of R134. A compressor that is worn out completely will not work at all,
One that is or might be tired? Can work better if the quantity of refrigerant is correct.
I am constantly being told by refrigeration experts that what I do can not be done, and I repeatedly ignore them and do it.
And when I finish the VINTAGE air install on my Javelin I will fill it that way, and when I finish assembling my Hornet A/C which will be and is a mix of Chevrolet, AMC dealer install vintage 1977 parts and vintage air adapters, I will fit it also the same way after I install the correct amount of oil in the GM R4 "muffin" compressor. The point? If it works for $18.00 vs $1800.00 you have beat the system.
And you really have to screw up to hurt it that way.
#14
04-20-2015, 01:23 AM
Well, it's not gonna cool right with those pressures at idle, but clearly higher pressures are being generated under load at higher rpms. So while not completely dead, your compressor IS capable of enough compression given a chance.
200 ish over 35 is about right.
Replacing the dryer after opening the system is good practice which few follow.
If ding in the condenser coil mattered as a restriction, I'd think you'd see higher pressures indicative of the equivalent of a partial blockage.
I think I'd start by having the thermal expansion valve (TXV) replaced, as it may not be allowing sufficient refrigerant into the evaporator to cool the air at idle/car not moving situations.
He's quoting everything else to make sure that , not matter what the issue actually was, he's covered the bases, repaired your AC, and made a tidy profit in doing so.
Go find another mechanic who's not after your wallet.
200 ish over 35 is about right.
Replacing the dryer after opening the system is good practice which few follow.
If ding in the condenser coil mattered as a restriction, I'd think you'd see higher pressures indicative of the equivalent of a partial blockage.
I think I'd start by having the thermal expansion valve (TXV) replaced, as it may not be allowing sufficient refrigerant into the evaporator to cool the air at idle/car not moving situations.
He's quoting everything else to make sure that , not matter what the issue actually was, he's covered the bases, repaired your AC, and made a tidy profit in doing so.
Go find another mechanic who's not after your wallet.
