No worries Derf, I appreciate any help I can get. I can't get to it until the weekend anyway. When I do I am planning on checking wire continuity between the crank position sensor and pcm and between the ignition module and pcm. If that all checks out I'll be stumped. My best guess would be a bad pcm if everything else checks out but I really hate guessplacing parts.

 

Trouble shooting is always a chore, Bill, but it could save you lots of money. Shotgunning parts can get quite expensive and still not correct the issue. As for your kids and you working on their cars, be straight up with them like I've done with my son. I told him if he doesn't learn, his car will be a piece of crap. He's grudgingly learned the basics, but still doesn't like to get his hands dirty. I'm getting broke down working on this damned house and he needs an oil change. I told him he'd have to do it himself or take it somewhere, I don't have the time.

 

I have all girls Rube. They are just not going to do their own work. The exception is my oldest...her first car was a manual transmission. One of the first thing I taught her to do was change a tire. She's in the Army, not afraid to get her hands dirty. I still do her oil changes when I can...just to spend time with her really. The other girls are hit and miss, I grilled them to keep up with the maintenance and they do to an extent. I will work on their cars as long as I'm able to just because I can and they are my kids but I can only do basic to moderate work and they know that. No engine swaps in my driveway....and ill generally only go as deep as the intake on an engine mechanically.

So on the car in question I checked continuity between the crank position sensor and the pcm connection and everything is good. Good continuity and still reading the correct resistance through the sensor from there. I still nStilton figure out a better way than pulling plugs to see if the injectors are firing. If I find out they are I am probably going to default to a bad pcm. And I think I did read somewhere that pcm on the 3rd gen sl1 did have problems.

 

Well thanks for all the help but the car is going to the shop. Not my idea, the daughters boyfriend is sending it to his uncle that is a real mechanic. I think I was on the verge of figuring it out but oh well....I wish him all the luck.
If and when he fixes it i will be sure to post here what it was in case it will help somebody one of these days..

Again....thanks!

 

Well here is something I was referring to in that older post. It has to do with the ignition control module ICM and associated wiring to the PCM. Unfortunately, this diagram is from first generation s cars. I know it has changed because you cannot use a first generation ignition module on a second or third gym Saturn S Series car. That being said, here is some troubleshooting info. If this person is a professional mechanic they should have access to the actual factory service manual or all data equivalent as to how to troubleshoot the ICM. They are probably about 200 bucks so they are not a throw money at it part. The issue can also be the wiring interconnecting it to the PCM. Well here you go and apologies for the mega delay.





Not too many reported cases of these ICM modules going bad. Emphasis on the reported cases part. I would search and see if you could find the model correct version of the picture I included above of the ICM schematic kiwi come here oops that was my cat she has now recorded forever on the forum.

So you would want an ICM diagram for a second generation S car.

Hope this helps you or whoever is receiving the vehicle. 99% of the time it is the crank position sensor or associated wiring.

 

I was reading your posts about the no spark issue, I own a 1999 Saturn SL1 and I'm having the same issues. Everything has power and voltage to them, PCM, ICM, Crank shaft position sensor, fuses are great, all have voltage, PCM wiring has good ohms but still no joy. I've checked all the grounds and they're all good. We've gone thru everything and we are just stumped. I'm going to go get a continuity tester next. Hoping you may have some insight because we just don't know what else to do at this point.
Thank you. Roni

 

Do you have fuel at the rail?
Do you have fuel in the cylinders after cranking?

It's the answer to both of those is yes, try the following test at night.

Remove and label all the plug wires at the coils.

Crank the engine and have someone look for an arc that goes between the two terminals of one, coil, and then two terminals of the other coil

If you do not see that or you see a week arc,

Unbolt the coil assembly from the block I'm sorry the transmission. It's mounted by two bolts. If you look at the coils, the top surface of each hole has a metallic insert. The coils are grounded through those bolts to the transmission case. Some people get a lot of corrosion where the bolt meets the coils or were the bolt goes into the transmission. Take them out and clean them up.

Let me know what you find

 

Had a Mobile mechanic come out, it's electrical. No power going to the coil packs. Grounds are good, the coil packs are brand new. He suggested putting the old ones back on and getting my money back. That leaves to get ahold of a electric technician.