They're fun little cars to drive and very economical. I just wish they weren't so low because when you have bad knees and a screwed up back, they're literally a PAIN to get in and out of.

 

Gentleman, My old reliable will not start. In the evening I drove it home, ran just fine with no sign of any problems, I shut it down. The next morning it just cranked and cranked but would not start. Battery reads 12.4 V, I hear the fuel pump come up to pressure and stop, but no start. I replaced both coils with new ones ... no start. What next?

 

Does it sound like it's spinning faster than normal? If so, perhaps the timing chain broke? IDK, I'm NOT a mechanic.

 

Check for spark at each plug and check for fuel at rail by covering the Schrader valve just to the right of the fuel rail with a rag and depressing the center.

 

Gentleman, thank you for your suggestions. The timing chain is fine. I do get a squirt of fuel from the Srader valve after the fuel pump stops. A friend will bring a pressure tester so I can quantify the output value. So far I have been unable to test for spark as it requires two people. I plan on doing this test soon. I have read in Haynes Repair Manual that faulty ignition switch cud be a problem. What is the probability of this occurrence? I am now totally immersed in tax preparation. Also the car is at a friends house 20 miles away so I have to plan my repair schedule. I will report in as I "peal this onion".
Luby

 

There are some classic failure modes for S cars which we will investigate. Let us know when you check spark on all four and can quantitate the fuel pressure since you have a gauge available.

 

Gentleman, I am not versed in using the forums and was unable to reply directly to my original question and your suggestions. I am replying to derf recomandation. This is for my 96 S2W that will not start.
I have checked fuel input pressure at fuel rail and it is 40 psi. I have checked for spark at the spark plug, at the end of spark plug wire, and between coil output terminals. No spark. I think the system is not getting ignition input signal. The ignition fuse is fine. At this point I do not know where to check next. Your input would be valuabley appreciated.

 

Likely a failed crank position sensor (CKP). Extremely common failure point on these cars.

When it fails, the PCM kills spark and kills the fuel injectors. I usually recommend to pull a plug after cranking to smell for gas and to see if the plug is wet. If the CKP has failed it will be dry.

Once located, Remove the two wire connector and test the resistance across the device. It should read between 700 to 900 ohms. It'll likely be out of range high in the thousands of ohms or will read infinite resistance as in open circuit.

Watch the following video by richpin06a.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...7fBT-7aqgiFTb6
I would recommend not removing the starter, as putting it back requires supporting the starter while locating and threading in a bolt completely blind that is difficult to do while on your back.

Instead, you MUST disconnect the battery to avoid accidentally crossing the battery voltage input to the starter to ground and getting zapped in the process.

That having been said, see
https://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=69687

For hands-on descriptions and useful tips. It is a pretty blind procedure itself so removing the air ducting from the top allows you to see what you are reaching for. But you replace it from the bottom.