So anyway, the correct group for the battery is a 75.
No idea what you have since you won't answer the question, post the picture, or seem to care.

I mentioned the inline fusible link above.
Also didn't seem to care or follow advice to check cable continuity and connections
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I'm out on this one......

Oh, check to make sure the serpentine belt is under proper tension and actually spinning the alternator pulley. Check belt tensioner for proper serpentine belt tension.

 

hey man! Thanks for replying. I didn’t get the chance to snap a pic of the battery, the car is not at my house and i didn’t have the time to get over there today. Battery pic is uploaded here. It’s charging on my kitchen table lol. Also wanted to upload this pic of my neg battery connection, i believe it’s oem but it looks like there is a plastic cover over the metal part, would that prevent a metal on metal connection? Going to try my best to check continuity or resistance not sure if that’s the same thing, on all wires from alternator to starter to battery; and look at the fusible link. Although I’ve never seen one and am not sure what I’m looking for. I also did replace the belt tensioner; i looked and the alternator was spinning but how do i know if it’s tight enough?

 

Here is the pic of the negative connection. Yes i know there is corrosion but that was from the old battery.

 

thank you all. It was a bad connection on the fusible link starter side

 

Nice work!

I got rid of the fusible link and ran a huge cable to a 100 amp marine fuse holder and fuse. This lowers the DC resistance to the battery. And I cleaned up the grounds in the engine bay. If you have a bad ground it can pop your alternator regulator. All the alternator rebuild parts are made off shore so I just go for junk yard alternators.

I also installed an LED volt meter on the dash, one time my alternator went out and the warning light did not go on so I took a ride on the back of the two truck. Wat h for headlights getting dim, that us another way to detect trouble before calling AAA.

 

The system was designed with a fusible link for a reason:

A fusible link is used instead of a fuse in situations where a circuit needs protection from very high current surges, often in automotive wiring harnesses, because a fusible link is designed to melt and break the circuit before the main wiring itself can overheat and potentially cause a fire, essentially acting as a "sacrificial" wire that is meant to fail before the larger wires do; whereas a standard fuse is typically used for smaller, more easily replaceable circuits with lower current needs

The primary purpose of a fusible link is to protect the surrounding wiring from damage by melting before the larger wires do,

A fuse is primarily designed to protect connected devices.

 

Can you draw that circuit out and explain to me the difference between the fusible link and the 100 amp fuse I am using between the battery and the alternator output?

 

"Older cars used a “Fusible Link” wire between the alternator and battery, because 100 amp fuses were expensive. A piece of wire with high temp insulation is cheap. A fusible link is nothing more than a wire that will burn and fail if too much current flows. They are pretty predictable and work okay, but modern fuses are more accurate. Most newer cars use an actual fuse. 80, 100, and 150 amp fuses are now readily available. When I updated my older car from a 60 amp to a newer 120 amp alternator, I installed a 150 amp mega fuse in place of the fusible link wire, and ran a larger #4 gauge wire to handle the increased current. I needed a bit more power for the dual electric cooling fans, larger fuel pump, 400 watt sound system, and fog lights.

You should always have some form of an over current protection device on the output of an alternator. If it ever blows, it means something went wrong. Replacing a fuse is a lot easier than repairing the clump of melted and shorted out wires if you don’t have a fuse or fusible link. With a short, all the wires will turn into a failing fusible link without something to limit the current."


Fusible links work but they are kind of primitive. And I don't like the thought of having a red hot wire and smoldering insulation right underneath an oil soaked block. And access to a fuse mounted by the fuse box us a lot easier than crawling under the car. I doubt any current surges will exceed 100 Amps with a 96 amp alternator.

The main purpose of the fusible link is to protect the alternator. If the alternator shorts out, bad things can happen if connected directly to the battery. Remember that the alternator output terminal always has voltage on it, even when the key is turned off.

The resistance of the wiring harness will prevent any surges from occurring. The only surges that occur I'm my car is when I turn on the headlamps. No AC compressor or sub wolfers are installed.

Another thing I do not like about the fusible links us that the terminals can get corroded over time, and the wire can get pretty crusty which will likely change its ampacity.

 

Oh, and this>
"Fusable links have been known to catch fire before they stop making a connection, thats why they are no longer used. If I'm not mistaken there was a demonstration on the HAMB showing one catching fire. I'm trying to find it. Go with the breaker or fuse."

 

Edited to properly describe fusible link behavior

. For the most part, no one cares about the "accuracy" of a fusible link. They are there to protect against the effects of currents that are above what they should be, There are rules of thumb for sizing fusible links relative to the gauge of the cable in use.

This discusses what might happen if there is no fusible link and no current limiting device installed. Yet somehow is prefaced with replacing a fuse being easier, even though the rest of this describes the situation where nothing is present. Totally irrelevant.

​​​​ The alternator is connected to the front of the engine and run by the serpentine belt. Why would the charging cable be run underneath the block? More importantly, why would the block be soaked in oil if you properly maintain your vehicle?. Safety beats easy access 110% of the time.

Please learn how automotive electrical systems work and where large current spikes can be generated.

No.
The main purpose of the fusible link in this application is to avoid high currents above the design limitations of the car's electrical system that would otherwise likely damage both the battery and the control electronics like the ECU etc. It is designed to burn out more quickly than a fuse in order to prevent the current spike from reaching other circuits farther down the line.

Sure, the alternator output terminal has voltage on it even with the key off. However, in that situation, the amount of current flowing is zero. It sits at battery voltage. The main issue is that you have to be careful not to short it to ground, as it is directly connected to the positive terminal of the battery. Unless you like sparks and damaging stuff.

No
This is exactly why the fusible link is installed. I can apply any current I want through the cable leading to the battery at any voltage I want. If the resistance is constant, then the current is proportional to the voltage at which I'm applying the current. V = IR.
At currents higher than the design limit for a specific wire, the additional current generates heat which will, if high enough, melt the insulation and the conductor inside of it. The fusible link acts as a thinner sacrificial section of wire that will melt long before the actual cable will.Circuit resistance in this case is static. Under normal operation, the current is essentially static and within design limitations of the circuit. Current spikes above the design specifications see the same resistance in the circuit and will not be perturbed by any particular resistance. The resistance will experience whatever current is put across it as long as the total load on the circuit can accept it. And that is the crux of the matter. It can.
No.
It may affect the resistance.
​​​​​​What is ampacity? Not familiar with that term. If you are referring to, under static conditions, the change in current across two different resistances, at the same voltage, with the crusty one being a higher resistance, then yes, technically that's true.
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Electronics in general are not the easiest thing to understand for most people. The more you ask and try to understand, the more you learn and the faster you learn it.