I’ve tried just about everything I know how. 2001 SL1. Battery was originally replaced about a month or two ago. For context i also replaced the valve cover gasket as it was leaking. Then the starter went bad and i put a starter in. Then my alternator went bad, i put in a new one today and it worked for a minute then stopped charging. There was a large oil leak and i have no clue where it’s from. Looked like under the PS pump but not fluid colored, looks like oil…. But what do i do with the alternator? I’m guessing some sort of fuse i read between alternator? I checked main fuses all fine.

 

Get charging system load tested for free at autozone or similar

If you can't drive that far without killing the battery, take the battery and the alternator out of the vehicle and take them to be tested.

It is not uncommon for batteries to be functional but close to DOA. If it has issues, they usually show in the first 3 to 6 months.

My guess is there is either a poor connection at the end of the alternator feed or a poor connection at the battery. Corrosion, looseness, etc.

What voltage was the battery being charged at by the new alternator before it stopped charging?

It is possible that your battery developed a bad cell and put excessive strain on the old alternator as well as the new alternator. That's part of what you will find out when you get your battery load tested.

Also make sure to check the inline fusible link in the positive cable between the alternator and the battery. Since the new alternator supposedly charged the battery for 3 minutes, it implies that the fusible link was intact after the first alternator failed. Yo will want to know if it is still intact as a part of your troubleshooting.

 

i had taken the car to AutoZone earlier today to be tested, the car charging system failed, but the ignition and battery system passed (this was before i replaced the replacement alternator. (I changed it twice)) the connections from the alternator to the connectors or wires look good. It was almost 14 Volts it was 13.8 for a minute or two so I’m wondering if some sort of fuse was blown and if so why it would be And how to avoid it

 

Issue = AutoZone reman alternators. Should be 14.4 V. Sounds like a bad diode on arrival and who knows what when hooked up. Ot alternator running full tilt but can't last

Why did you change the alternator twice? Did you get a dud?
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Why did you not include 50% of the background info at the start?
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What make and size/group size battery is in there?
Buy a NEW alternator from somewhere other than Adv/AtoZ

 

that’s where i was confused, i changed the alternator once and it ended up being bad and not working either my thought process was that it was a bad alternator. But the one that is in the car now works, and i had it tested. So i am not sure if the alternator is the issue? I also cannot find any new alternators the ones I’ve seen are all reman

 

"The one that is in the car now works and I had it tested."
Did you not say it only charged for 3 minutes and then stopped charging? Same alternator?

If the alternator tests good, the battery tests good, and you have pulled the fuse and tested it out of the vehicle, That would seemingly leave the fusible link mentioned above and or a bad cable or connection.

Check all positive cables that lead from the alternator to the battery and fuse box. If the cable's path also runs to the starter, check all branches of the cable. I don't remember how that is configured.

Check for continuity between all of the terminals of that cable with a DVM. Resistance should be not quite zero but close. Have someone else wiggling the cables around especially near the ends to ensure there are no partial breaks in the cable which would show as an increase in resistance.

Do the same for the negative cable coming off the battery that bolts to the frame. Make sure the connections are clean and tight at the battery, and make sure the negative terminal connection at the other end to the body is clean metal on metal, meaning no corrosion on either surface and no paint.

You did not answer the battery size question.
If you don't know what group / BCI The battery is, take a picture of the model and brand sticker and we will figure it out for you.

 

might be a dumb question but is there a specific fuse for the alternator or charging system? I checked on the back of both fuse boxes but wasn’t sure. I’ll send a pic of battery later tn when I’m home. For the battery terminal neg side how do i test for resistance? I’m a parts changer lol idk how to really diagnose

 

Is the battery/charging light on the dash lit?

 

no it’s not i charged the battery up when it was tested and i can drive it for a little bit, but when the battery gets low it comes on. However with the charged up battery it doesn’t, but the battery isn’t getting charged from alternator

 

The fuse is incorporated into the short wire between the alternator output terminal and the starter.