97 SL2 Won't crank, won't start, no lights, nothing...
#1
97 SL2 Won't crank, won't start, no lights, nothing...
Howdy all, you guys have helped me many times but I always found the answer in past posts. This time, no Luck. I have a 97 SL2 standard with 250k miles that will not start. When I turn the key, I get no lights, no radio, no fuel pump noise, nothing. The battery is good, just replaced 6 months ago. I drove to work with no issues, came back out after work and got nothing. While waiting for my wife I fiddled with the key and everything came on for about 5 seconds, but then died. Does anyone have any ideas on where to start chasing the gremlin? I love this car
Thanks in advance for any ideas ya'll may have.
Thanks in advance for any ideas ya'll may have.
#2
Check battery terminals for tightness and corrosion. Ensure acid has not compromised the positive cable. Also ensure you have a clean solid ground to the frame by the battery.
there are other possibilities to explore if the above efforts are not fruitful. By your description of how it failed I suspect a cell in the battery may have gone bad.....but check into the above simple stuff first. If no luck pull the battery and get it load tested at autozone or similar.
there are other possibilities to explore if the above efforts are not fruitful. By your description of how it failed I suspect a cell in the battery may have gone bad.....but check into the above simple stuff first. If no luck pull the battery and get it load tested at autozone or similar.
#3
Sounds more like a switch problem to me since you can wiggle it and get something to happen. But, I'm NOT a mechanic and have never claimed to be one. Get some more feedback before screwing with that.
#4
i seem to have not read all of your post ---the part about getting stuff to come on for 5 sec -- that's what happens at 1 am after too much tequila. Could indeed be an ignition switch issue
It won't hurt to check the stuff I mentioned in my initial post.
Sorry for the oops
It won't hurt to check the stuff I mentioned in my initial post.
Sorry for the oops
#5
With the key in the start position, power is cut to all parts of the car so that the full battery is available to the starter and ignition. Do your lights work with the key off or in the run position?
Just because the battery is new and measures 12.6 volts when everything is off does not mean that it is not the problem. Sometimes the connection between the battery post and the internal grid develops an crack. It will pass voltage in a no load, but will not pass enough current to do anything.
If you have a volt meter, put it across the battery terminals and then turn on the lights or have someone turn the key to start. If the battery voltage drops to zero or close to zero, the battery is bad. If it does not drop at all or very little, then the problem is external to the battery. It will probably be the main fuse. Look at where the + battery cable enters the underhood fuse and relay panel, the big fuse at the entrance point is the main fuse.
Just because the battery is new and measures 12.6 volts when everything is off does not mean that it is not the problem. Sometimes the connection between the battery post and the internal grid develops an crack. It will pass voltage in a no load, but will not pass enough current to do anything.
If you have a volt meter, put it across the battery terminals and then turn on the lights or have someone turn the key to start. If the battery voltage drops to zero or close to zero, the battery is bad. If it does not drop at all or very little, then the problem is external to the battery. It will probably be the main fuse. Look at where the + battery cable enters the underhood fuse and relay panel, the big fuse at the entrance point is the main fuse.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
saturns_moon
Saturn S Series Sedan
2
01-24-2014 11:20 AM