2-3 Shift
#21
10-23-2020, 11:05 AM
There are shift solenoids located on the valve body. You can try replacing these first as I did. Unfortunately that did not solve my issue. What I read was that, in addition to the solenoids becoming weak, the shift valves bores can become worn which means having the valve body rebuilt with sleeves installed inside the bores. I did a lot of shopping, and was able to find a rebuilt valve body on eBay for under $200.00. It was easy to change, the valve body was actually located on the top side of the transmission. I removed the air box and ductwork and a few other small items to get to the transmission cover. Make sure not to let any dirt or debris fall inside. Its a good idea to powerwash the engine bay or get a bucket of hot soapy water and a scrub brush and clean the area thoroughly. Its been a few years since I did mine (I have since sold the car) so I don't remember all the details, but it was fairly simple. I had to do mine twice, at first I replaced the solenoid, then had to take it apart again to replace the entire valve body and I didn't have any major issues or difficulties doing it. Solenoid was fairly cheap - $46.44 with tax and shipping at Rock Auto - and even if you do end up replacing the valve body, new solenoids wouldn't be a bad idea anyway.
Have a great day , stay safe--- Harv
#23
04-27-2021, 01:39 PM
HI -
First time on the forum. Apologies in advance if I trip .... Please correct me.
My 2002 SL1 suddenly, as in one cold morning, began similar trans issues. 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift jerky in traffic. One possible difference, or additional observation that's different from above: Placing in drive or reverse take a long time to engage, then jerk in. This happened in February an its now April. Have not wanted to drive it much for fear of doing more damage. Now getting to work on the problem.
Just checked all solenoids via the connector .... (Valve body still in car.) Readings were: 6.4 Ohm on line, 6.3 TCC, 8.3 2nd, 8.2 3rd and 7.7 4th. I know these are all out of spec but not by the large amounts like I have seen in various videos. And they are all close together. (Will check digital ohmmeter calibration to rule out instrument error) Assuming all readings are true, is this excess ohms enough to matter? I have not serviced the filter, etc on the trans but in pulling the top cover, fluid is pink and with no burned smell noticeable. Vehicle mileage = 165K. The weirdest part to me is that the car went from working just fine to having all this trouble literally overnight. I have read this entire post. Any additional thoughts for next steps, or experience with these ohm values will be much appreciated. Read the learn in procedure. Wondering if it could have "forgotten" its settings.
Many thanks.
First time on the forum. Apologies in advance if I trip .... Please correct me.
My 2002 SL1 suddenly, as in one cold morning, began similar trans issues. 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift jerky in traffic. One possible difference, or additional observation that's different from above: Placing in drive or reverse take a long time to engage, then jerk in. This happened in February an its now April. Have not wanted to drive it much for fear of doing more damage. Now getting to work on the problem.
Just checked all solenoids via the connector .... (Valve body still in car.) Readings were: 6.4 Ohm on line, 6.3 TCC, 8.3 2nd, 8.2 3rd and 7.7 4th. I know these are all out of spec but not by the large amounts like I have seen in various videos. And they are all close together. (Will check digital ohmmeter calibration to rule out instrument error) Assuming all readings are true, is this excess ohms enough to matter? I have not serviced the filter, etc on the trans but in pulling the top cover, fluid is pink and with no burned smell noticeable. Vehicle mileage = 165K. The weirdest part to me is that the car went from working just fine to having all this trouble literally overnight. I have read this entire post. Any additional thoughts for next steps, or experience with these ohm values will be much appreciated. Read the learn in procedure. Wondering if it could have "forgotten" its settings.
Many thanks.
#24
04-27-2021, 10:50 PM
Hi,
I think the valve body solenoid resistance readings are a bit too varied for my liking.
If they are not functioning as designed, you will likely see it in the shifts.
They are all subjectively inconsistent with 2, 3, and 4 near 8 ohms but line and TCC near 6.5.
If you keep track of their original location, you can swap positions, 1 at a time, to do some troubleshooting.
Ideally you do this with a known good solenoid.
You can buy a single one or just give in to one of the known consumables of S series auto trans cars and purchase a rebuilt valve body (ebay and elsewhere). Be SURE the solenoids are Sonnax brand and that the seller specializes in valve body rebuilds, hopefully for TAAT transmissions. A few hundred bucks I believe.
The pause going into drive may be related to the liner pressure solenoid. Only one way to tell. Or the fluid. Or I'm wrong. Not a transmission guy.
The pause and jerk into reverse is known in the Saturn community as "reverse slam" and begins to happen when the nut on the input shaft begins to loosen.
The longer you let it go, the further the nut backs out and the harsher the slam. It can be fixed without opening the trans. Saturn highly recommends using a NEW input shaft nut if you're going to bother with the repair, since if the one on there right now is backing out, what's going to stop it from doing the same if you just tighten it back up?
There are DIYs all over the place for these repairs.
Search youtube for "Richpin06a Saturn." He has hundreds of Saturn DIY videos
I think the valve body solenoid resistance readings are a bit too varied for my liking.
If they are not functioning as designed, you will likely see it in the shifts.
They are all subjectively inconsistent with 2, 3, and 4 near 8 ohms but line and TCC near 6.5.
If you keep track of their original location, you can swap positions, 1 at a time, to do some troubleshooting.
Ideally you do this with a known good solenoid.
You can buy a single one or just give in to one of the known consumables of S series auto trans cars and purchase a rebuilt valve body (ebay and elsewhere). Be SURE the solenoids are Sonnax brand and that the seller specializes in valve body rebuilds, hopefully for TAAT transmissions. A few hundred bucks I believe.
The pause going into drive may be related to the liner pressure solenoid. Only one way to tell. Or the fluid. Or I'm wrong. Not a transmission guy.
The pause and jerk into reverse is known in the Saturn community as "reverse slam" and begins to happen when the nut on the input shaft begins to loosen.
The longer you let it go, the further the nut backs out and the harsher the slam. It can be fixed without opening the trans. Saturn highly recommends using a NEW input shaft nut if you're going to bother with the repair, since if the one on there right now is backing out, what's going to stop it from doing the same if you just tighten it back up?
There are DIYs all over the place for these repairs.
Search youtube for "Richpin06a Saturn." He has hundreds of Saturn DIY videos
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