The bolts serve to ground the ignition components to the transmission bell housing which is also ground for the vehicle. As long as the threads are clean on the bolts and in the threaded bore of the holes, you should be fine.I think you need to find that piece of junk floating around in the lower half of your engine. If you are lucky it sticks to the side of the oil pan somewhere and that's that or it comes out the drain hole when you drain oil. It's more likely however that it will get sucked into the oil pump pickup and partially clog it, decreasing the amount of oil getting to the rest of your engine. The other outcome is it gets somewhere where it should not be like in the timing chain gears, cam gears, the chain itself, stuck in the head, basically anywhere oil goes. Stuck in an oil galley again depriving part of your engine of oil.

 

As for the grommets, it's okay that they are slightly different as long as they are the correct diameter for the cam cover bolts. Follow the correct order of torquing and it should be fine. These cam cover gasket sets are made such that they will cover all models of your engine, which probably in earlier or later generations has another cam cover bolt. As long as you are sure you have gotten all of them including the one towards the back, should be okay. If you have a 95 dohc and a black plastic cover as opposed to the aluminum cover, that would be the reason. The aluminum cover uses an extra cam cover bolt.
Not sure why that gasket doesn't have a section that fits up into the groove around the outside edge of the cam cover gasket. I think some 95s still required a full RTV by hand made gasket. If you have one with the groove, the cam cover that is, get a matching gasket with the groove sticking up on one side and the flat surface pointing down as you have it.

This is an example of what I mean. Note that it is only if your cam cover gasket has the groove to accept the raised portion of this gasket. You need to blow the picture way up to see the ridge on both the gasket that runs around the outside as well as each of the circular seals for the cylinders.

If you do, and you get this other set that will meet your needs better, I'll work out a way to pay you for the felpro gasket, since I'm the one that recommended you buy it. I should have looked it up first, so that's on me. Completely on me. I broke my own rule of flat out telling someone to buy something specific, so this is what I do when I break my own rule. We'll chat offline

The one that you have will work, but there is also a nick in the gasket towards the front. I am not experienced enough to know if that will be a leak issue. It will let oil halfway under the mating surfaces which is halfway to leaking and it will get distorted a bit by tightening down the cam cover gasket so you won't really know what you have under there. so personally I wouldn't take the chance.

 

Stock plug is the

NGK BKR5ESA-11 (NGK Stock Number: 5643 for set of 4.) correct Gap is 0.040.

Not the V power. Change every 36,000 miles as this is a traditional copper plug..

 

They switched from the aluminum cover to the black plastic cover somewhere during 1995 production. If you have an aluminum cover and it is actually original to the car, you should have an extra cam cover bolt which usually is an extra one in the back that the Black cover does not use. Back in the day, everyone sought out the aluminum covers even for the later years through second generation since they had more bolts intended to seal better. You should have an empty hole i in the head to receive that additional cam cover bolt and the extra grommet you already have. I'm thinking someone swapped the black plastic one for an aluminum one but since the black one didn't come with the extra cam cover bolt, they just used as is. See if you can find one of those bolts either for sale or at
a yard. This is before final tightening since you must follow the tightening pattern. It does make a difference.

 

If you look closely at the coil packs, the holes where the bolts pass through have a copper ring around them. This serves to attach the bolt to the bell housing while also creating a conductive electrical path through the bolt to ground the ignition system. So make sure the underside of those bolt heads are nice and clean.

 

Thanks for all advice,

Alright we bead blasted the bolts so nice and clean. Dont worry about the gasket, For now will try the gasket have, the grommets seem good fit

Btw the ignition wires new came weird length.

The two shorter length wires are the same Size as each other, so when comparing to the old wires there is quite a bit difference in length. Will this be an issue ? New ones on left

 

Nevermind. ..

The 2nd shortest one OLD was 18"

The 2nd shortest one NEW is 14"

Doesn't even reach. Anyone know a good brand wires to get? Trying AC delco did not work out , at least from rock auto.

NAPA has belden premium for 37$
Orielly has Ultima 3037-03 for 33$
Orielly has AC Delco for 60$
Rock Auto has all sorts but im afraid to use them now that had this issue... their AC Delco is 30$ but again... shipped with two shortest ones making it unusable.

I'm not sure how important the brands are for these things, if I should just get whatever? What do you guys like to use. I'm just frustrated by all the issues with rock auto lol

 

This is what happens when GM sells fulfillment of their AC Delco gold and professional lines to the highest bidder. I'm sure they were fine and the correct lengths way back when, but whoever has the contract now to fill those boxes is filling them with the ****.
If you look at the picture for the $30 standard replacement AC Delco wires, they are not four different lengths as they should be. The NGK set specified for the silver cover is

Which shows the four wires with four different lengths.

I'm not saying that the picture will always match exactly what you get, but apparently you have determined that we all must scrutinize AC Delco parts heavily before purchasing if they are not ACDelco OEM.

I would maybe try this NGK set.

Advance 24.50 store pickup or free delivery $35 Plus
Ngk.com 22.15 + shipping + 3 wk delay
Amazon 30.00 with Amazon prime
Partsgeek 29.95 including 10 shipping

To answer your question as to whether the brand matters, it seems that it does because not all of the manufacturers are offering the same set of wires. Sad but true. Welcome to the world of aftermarket Saturn support.

 

Alright getting some NGK ones, also getting a gas tank cap because why not? I read that apparently they go bad at some point

BTW while removing the spark plugs, the final plug seemed still very stiff after maybe less than a full revolution. Very different from the others. What should I do? Do I put some penetrating oil in there

feels "wrong" when loosening, afraid to go further. It might have even have been getting tighter feeling?

 

What say you, @02 LW300 , @grcauto8453 ?