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I got it completetly clean now! It just took a few more hours of rubbing. I will follow advice and try get as much out as possible.
RockAuto never sent half the order and I got a refund. Going to get the rest of the parts. I will try see if can find a different gasket.
By the way, I was thinking to do oil change while the valve cover is off. Would it be helpful to pour oil over the timing chain? or is that bad idea ! otherwise I will pour it just where it usually would drain onto. Was thinking if I can pour it lots of places while the drain plugged is pulled and cover is off, it would help remove any towel debris/dust. Would waste some oil but idk.
Also for life of me cannot remember if I was using synthetic or not. Lately I avoided synthetic for last few oil changes, so if it was synthetic it is now not. I was thinking maybe is it okay to switch to synthetic, because its actually hard to find any selection of non-synthetic oil at my local stores now...! besides a single lower price brand
It doesn't matter if you run synthetic or dino. The key is keeping an eye on the level by checking it frequently and doing regular scheduled oil AND FILTER changes. I change my oil every 5,000 miles and I'm running Valvoline Restore and Protect 10W-30 in my 2017 Kia Forte. I have over 187,000 miles on it and it runs great. I wouldn't dump oil over the timing chain as it gets oiled while the car is running. I doubt that you left enough towel debris and dust behind to make any difference whatsoever. That's just my opinion as a guy who IS NOT a mechanic, but has been doing all of my own work on my own cars for 50+ years.
I just looked at an aluminum cover I have and I don't think it matters either way. I'd probably just leave them in place to help keep them located. I think the reason the bridges look like an after thought is because the factory used sealer in place of an actual gasket for the aluminum covers. The oil pan and timing don't have a gasket either.
I know this to be true....which is why I was shocked to find premade gaskets existed for this engine when I finally needed to do mine. The bridges help to keep the seals around the cylinders lined up.
Please trust those who collectively have replaced many more than your father (no disrespect intended).
Does the cleanliness of the mounting bolts for the coil packs matter much? Youtube video said helps grounding. Was thinking I'll bead blast these bolts because even after cleaning still pretty bad at head. Or does it not matter much? Weirdly one coil pack had bolts that had threads all the way up and a washer, while the other had two bolts with smooth surface for threads only half way through and a wider flat part of head without washer
I'm also curious if I have good new coil packs. The old ones had metal contact in the bolt holes that go to the behind of the pack, while the new ones don't.
I'm kinda confused of the point of the two flat metal surfaces on the coil pack mount, on my new coil packs there is no metal surface anywhere on the back ? New one pictured on left. Old on right.
So there was some kind of solid piece of material in this crevice below the timing chain. About size length of a pumpkin seed but more narrow. Couldn't tell what it was, gasket or what. I tried getting at it with a tweezers but it fell further down and now out of view. Not sure what to do!
this was one reasons asked if viable to pour oul around, while draining to "flush out" anything around but idk if it actually would work that way.
Am I doomed ? Shop vac worked well with a small tube to get the towel fuzz bits out
For some reason there is an extra grommet. And the new grommet (on top) is lot thicker on its top, is this an issue ? Do I have wrong grommets
Hand tightened atm but the gasket is loose still, I wonder if it's too thick , probably going to just tighten for now to the torque spec... any opinions?
