Maybe the radio has a defect.

 

that could be, but this is the second one i have tried. i have exchanged it once before for the same reason for an identical model. is it possible that i got two defective units in a row from the same supplier?

 

One of the things I have noticed about trying to install electrical items with out proper instructions and no idea what should be hooked up is you blow them up thus causing defects where none were before.

 

so i've been doing some research on this issue i have. i have looked at the radio diagrams i've been given. i have checked and rechecked my wiring over and over. i have redone it entirely time and again, only to yield the same result. so i called a professional that happens to be 100 miles from me asking about the stereo. it turns out that the manufacturer (JVC/Kenwood) put a chip in them that keeps them from playing with even the slightest defect in the wiring. keeps the stereo from burning down the car, they claim. the pro told me to test the speaker leads with a 9V battery, i should hear a pop from the speaker... if it sparks and pops, there is a short...

i tested right rear, got pop, no spark that i could see
tested left rear, got a whining noise that sounded like it was coming from the front of the car, maybe horn? no spark...
tested right front, no pop, no spark...
tested left front, no pop, no spark...

based on this test, i have come to the conclusion that i am not going to make the aftermarket stereo work with the factory wiring, so i am going to run my own wire and do it right.

my new questions are...

1. how does one take off the door panels to access the front speakers?

2. how does one get to the rear speakers?

 

I can tell you from experience that the factory speakers don't last very long with an aftermarket head unit. Mine lasted about a month, but I had the power limiter setting on in the head unit. I replaced them with Polk Audio, but they run about $100 pair. I think you can get some speakers at WalMart now that fit the 6.75" openings. Couldn't then.

Now, to get at the speakers. First get a door panel tool. They cost about $8 at an autoparts store and this is a good investment. You can easily do a lot more that $8 damage if you don't use one. Trust me on this.

For the rear speakers, first pop off the covers for the child seat anchors. Remove the rear seat cushion by pushing to the rear, then up. Then fold the seats forward and remove the Body lock pillar lower trim molding (them plastic pieces that run up the sides behind the seat backs) start at the bottom. You can use a screwdriver or the panel tool to remove the clips.

Now remove the 4 plastic clips that hold down the rear window trim molding aka package shelf. You can access the bottoms of these clips and push up or out so you are less likely to leave scars on the package shelf. The speakers are right there now.

There are two screws in the door panels, one in the handle trim and the other at the bottom rear corner. If you have power windows, there may be another screw located in the trim for that. If you have manual windows like I do, then push in on the panel around the handle so you can see the clip that holds the handle in place.

Rotate the handle so that the clip is oriented this way Ω. Then put a shop rag or washcloth over the top and draped down the sides. Push in on the sides, then pull the rag up from the center top. It will catch the ends of the clip and pull it out. Don't do this if you are parked on the grass unless you have a large tray under the door.

Now close the window all the way and pull the handle off and put the clip back in place on the handle. When you replace the handle, all you will have to do is just push it in place. Just remember the orientation of the handle, it should point forward when the window is up or it will kill your knees when driving. Trust me.

Now go around the edge of the panel with your panel tool to locate each of the blind fasteners. Make sure that there is one tine on each side of the fastener, then pry outward. When all the fasteners have been released, the panel is removed straight up.

Now you can verify all your speaker wiring with an ohmmeter. Besure to use dynamat between the speaker frame and the door frame or a good quality double sided tape. Foam or thick rubber double sided tape should do.

 

wasn't planning on replacing the speakers but i might give a thought... you know, tell the wife that they're about junked(even though they're good) and swap 'em out...

what size are they? 6.5" round? 6x9"?

 

6.75" all of them. It's a PITA to find speakers that fit. There are 6.5" speakers that have either a second set of holes or elongated holes for the GM spacing, but make sure before you buy that they say they can fit the GM 6.75" pattern. Even some of those who claim that (Polk Audio for example) do not fit all that well. I got mine from Crutchfield and they sent adapters, but even though they worked, they were universal adapters so they weren't that easy to figure out.

This is another example of GM engineering, there is nothing so easy that they can't find a way to make it difficult.

The Polk Audio's sound great though. but the inside of a car going down the highway is never a good listening environment. If I were doing it today, I would use the cheaper speakers available at WalMart instead, but that was not an option when I did mine. Just make sure they can handle the 22 watts RMS that the JVC head unit puts out.

 

That sounds good... Ill probably use some pioneers from wal mart if any...

 

You may want to check these out. I have used this company before and been satisfied;
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...uctSearch.aspx
well I can see that did not get where I wanted to go, but it got close enough. Type into the search field;
6.75 speakers and it will list them out for you.

 

The ones i seen were pretty expensive... Dont wanna pay $89 for a pair of speakers in my wifes car...