Stalling out wont idle have to stay on throttle

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  #21  
Old 05-05-2023, 12:48 PM
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That's how I understand it also. And I agree he should be getting a code if it is not going into closed loop. He should also be getting a code (P0172) with the really rich mixture that his scan tool is showing. I think the ECM is not playing nicely.

If the O2 sensor is not providing a varied output -- bad sensor, or, as you pointed out, not able to accurately sample the exhaust gas because of missing cat -- the ECM may not be going into closed loop. OP should be able to see which mode the engine is in on his scan tool, open loop or closed loop.
 
  #22  
Old 05-05-2023, 10:08 PM
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The car doesn’t care about the cat until it does a cat efficiency test. The first oxygen sensor controls the mixture, the second sensor looks at the cat efficiency only.
It sounds like this car has not run right since the head has been off. But it ran well before the repairs other than the water use. Quit throwing parts at it.
It could easily be anything at this point. Start by looking at what was changed. The valve grind, the head surface was shaved, the main chain and kit? was replaced, guides?, tensioner?, torque to yield bolts replaced?
Is the ground wire that goes between the valve cover and the head back where it goes? This grounds the icm since the valve cover is rubber mounted.
I agree this is a pain to diagnose but I cannot see your car. Have you checked the compression yet?

 
  #23  
Old 05-10-2023, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by derf
I'm sorry, but the air-to-fuel mix must also depend on the front O2 sensor. If the sensor is there, it doesn't seem to be sensing any oxygen so I would get the reading off that. I'm thinking it's near zero. That would tell the ECM to richen the mixture.

If you don't have a cat, you probably don't have any back pressure either in the exhaust, which means the exhaust will not spend enough time around the front O2 sensor for it to read properly.

Did you have a cat before you started the rebuild?

Suspect the ECM as the last option.

Andy's comment about the fuel regulator is something you must check. There is a Schrader valve on The fuel line leading to the fuel rail. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge. The average fuel pump will put out 90 to 100 PSI into the regulator which brings it down to the 40s or '50s. The regulator for these third gen cars is integral to the fuel filter. So checking fuel up by the engine will tell you if it has failed.

Is there anything else about this build, component-wise not on the car extra on the car etc, that you have not told us about? Does it have a muffler or is it straight piped? Are you bypassing anything? Have you adjusted anything on the throttle body?

Please share the information now so that we may help you. Otherwise we're chasing a ghost with three arms, two heads, and an ****
sorry to be gone so long ive been poking the bear with a stick looking for results and got something kinda. So when the car first starts it is in OL for like 3 seconds then kicks into CL unless i floor it. Heres the weird part to me, when i start the car and have my foot on the throttle to start i use the scan tool to see my pressure on the pedal. I sit at about 10% throttle and the car starts in OL sputters for a few seconds kicks into CL then the short trim goes straight to -50 and the car runs a bit better. I never move my foot off 10% throttle that entire time. Im thinking the system is over pressured and thats causing the rich issue. Not ruling out a bad pcm cause there are definitely signs of it. And i had no cat pre rebuild nothing changed except the fact i rebuilt it and put all new seals in it. I had this power loss/ rich running issue before but it was barely noticeable outside a bit of smoke. The previous owners said the issue has been going on for about a month prior to the sale. The pump sounds good and strong so im thinking if there is a regulator it is bad.
 
  #24  
Old 05-10-2023, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 02 LW300
The car doesn’t care about the cat until it does a cat efficiency test. The first oxygen sensor controls the mixture, the second sensor looks at the cat efficiency only.
It sounds like this car has not run right since the head has been off. But it ran well before the repairs other than the water use. Quit throwing parts at it.
It could easily be anything at this point. Start by looking at what was changed. The valve grind, the head surface was shaved, the main chain and kit? was replaced, guides?, tensioner?, torque to yield bolts replaced?
Is the ground wire that goes between the valve cover and the head back where it goes? This grounds the icm since the valve cover is rubber mounted.
I agree this is a pain to diagnose but I cannot see your car. Have you checked the compression yet?
slight correction this issue was present before the rebuild however the rebuild sped up the progression. Cant remember the exact number but i think they were all around 170. There is a ground wire i am unsure of where it goes but i believe where it is should still do the job. The ICM ground wire is also grounded properly. Timing is correct i had a master tech run through my work and it all checks out the issue is not within the motor anymore. As the motor runs exactly the same as before when i unplug the injector harness and use starting fluid instead. I confirm this is either electrical or a fuel pressure issue. Ill run a fuel pressure test when i get paid unfortunately i havent had the time nor funds to get more test tools.
 
  #25  
Old 05-10-2023, 07:51 PM
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For all wondering this is a completely stock motor no cat, has a muffler, both functioning O2 sensors, TB hasnt been adjusted, running 87 octane with fuel system cleaner, all new injectors, new ignition module, head had a valve job and resurfaced, new rockers all around the old ones were loose, new timing set, didnt touch the water pump and balance shaft as those were replaced in the last 30k, no fuel pressure test but will get one soon, even compression all around, new oil pump and all new seals. All sensors are the same a pre rebuild nothing has changed except injectors.
 
  #26  
Old 05-10-2023, 10:34 PM
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Preexisting rich car, please check pressure when you can. Starting to make sense. The pumps put out 90+ psi, the regulator is the saving grace. If the pressure is where it needs to be, unplug the front oxygen sensor and see how it runs.
 
  #27  
Old 05-10-2023, 11:08 PM
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So running rich was an issue before the rebuild?

(Sigh.....)

AutoZone or similar will do loan a tool for just putting down a security deposit so that you return the tool. Total cost equals amount of gas to get to store.
 
  #28  
Old 05-14-2023, 01:02 PM
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Replaced the fuel filter that allegedly has the regulator in it and no dice still running the same. The fuel pressure tester didnt fit the valve and i have to go clear across town to get a different one. Im genuinly at a loss is there anything between the pump and the rail aside from the filter???

(Edit) Im wondering if the little nub at the end of the fuel rail is a sensor or regulator of some sort idk what it does or if its literally an end cap but at this point im open to try anything.
 

Last edited by Clapped.out.ion.9; 05-14-2023 at 01:12 PM.
  #29  
Old 05-14-2023, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by oldmarine
That's how I understand it also. And I agree he should be getting a code if it is not going into closed loop. He should also be getting a code (P0172) with the really rich mixture that his scan tool is showing. I think the ECM is not playing nicely.

If the O2 sensor is not providing a varied output -- bad sensor, or, as you pointed out, not able to accurately sample the exhaust gas because of missing cat -- the ECM may not be going into closed loop. OP should be able to see which mode the engine is in on his scan tool, open loop or closed loop.
im of the opinion head back to investigating an ecm issue until i can find a proper fuel pressure tester but i no longer think this a fuel pressure issue if the regulator is actually built into the filter. Unless there is a generation where the regulator is built into the pump i dont think this is a fueling issue anymore. So to bring all past investigation into the ecm back there are no codes, the car certainly doesnt wait until the motor is at temp to switch to closed loop it does it after 3-5 seconds under any condition even if the car is at operating temp. The car clearly has control and its cutting back 50% of fuel unless at WOT. Cooling fans dont come on even if the AC compressor is on. When driving unless at WOT the car looses power as if a crank sensor was failing. My guess is when the car is running the ECM is just dumping fuel into the motor and doesnt have a proper fuel map. The battery was unplugged for a few months not sure if this has any bearing on anything.
 
  #30  
Old 05-14-2023, 09:05 PM
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I wish I had a set of factory manuals for an Ion. I suspect that you can marry a used pcm to this bcm with three learning cycles like the other cars. I have learned that the airbag module and bcm have to come from the same car when working on L series cars. Do not buy any computers from a car without major accident damage at the wrecking yard. Sometimes that is why they are there.
 


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