I am working on a 2004 Saturn Ion sedan and have just replaced the door window regulator and motor on the front passenger side. Prior to putting everything back together I checked to see if the motor would move the window rack up and down. Unfortunately, there was no movement and I find out afterward from my daughter that none of her windows in the car would go up or down. So, I checked the 30 amp fuse for the window circuit and it's good.

I am writing to ask if any members on this site know of any other places that a inline fuse might be that could blow and prevent any of the windows to work. If there is one, if you could provide the location of it I would deeply appreciate it. It would save me a trip to the local library to see if they have a service manual for the car.

If there isn't a inline fuse, I am thinking that the driver side door switch that can operatoe all four windows may be bad or the power to it has come undone and hanging inside the door.

Thanks for your time taken to read about my issue. And, any help or response will be appreciated.

 

Pretty sure there is a power window relay either under the hood in the underhood junction box (UHJB) or Instrument panel junction box (IPJB) located inside the car. An inoperative relay (defective or poor electrical contact in its socket) would prevent any current from reaching the entire power window circuitry.

Did you check for voltage at the connector to the motor you were working with?

The multiswitch shouldn't be that difficult to remove from the trim. Look it up on ebay to get an idea of where the tabs are so that you can remove it without breaking it.

Check for V at the input to the multiswitch with each window switch depressed, one at a time. If you get nothing, the relay may be suspect. Test for V at the relay input and output terminals.

It could also be an open in the wiring anywhere throughout the circuit. Others have found pinched or broken wires where the wiring enters the driver's door at the front.

If you do measure 12V at the switch input, the switch is suspect. It could also be an open in the wiring anywhere throughout the circuit.


Fuse checks are best done with an DMM set to resistance or continuity. Do NOT judge by eye. Removal and replacement also helps to sweep the contacts clean of any corrosion built up in the last 13 yrs

 

After checking the 30 amp breaker in the junction box, I did a check on the connector to the window motor. Breaker is good, but, no voltage indication at the motor. So, I went looking for a broken ground wire. Since there is no noted location in the Haynes service manual, I pulled the driver side switch to see if there was voltage at that location. There was no voltage at that switch either yet there was voltage at the switch for the door locks. Ended up pulling the out the boot between the door and body. Found that someone had attempted to make repairs at some earlier point and all six wires for the door switch were cut and left disconnected. After attaining a dozen wire splices and adding a few inches of wire I spliced them all together according to their color codes using heat shrink type waterproof splices. That done, all the windows in the car work. Still have issue trying to get the window glass back in place for the regulator that was replaced. The plastic clips that hold the window are proving to be quite difficult to get back into the regulator holding clips.

 

Did she buy the car with inoperable power windows and in need of the regulator?

If so, it may have been the seller's way of ensuring that the broken regulator didn't move, and since they likely had no wiring diagram, they cut all the wires to ensure the entire circuit could not operate.

 

I'm not sure if the windows had worked when she bought the car. At the time she did buy it I wasn't to happy with her as it was in need of a lot of TLC. I worked on it on more than one occasion and had replaced a few suspension parts on the front end including struts. With exception of two wires that had the remnants of wire splices on them the other wires appeared to have broke after continued opening and closing of the door due to poor position between the door and body. I believe that part of the reason the wires had broke was due to a missing inner fender well that prevents road debris and outside elements from getting in the cabin. I had noticed that prior to the window repairs and ordered one. Wasn't to hard to put the new inner fender well in place. Just a dozen push pins to secure it. But, appreciate your insight on where and what may be causing the inoperable power window. All is good now until the next worn out part needs replaced.