Attempting to replace multiple AC parts on my own

Old Jul 21, 2025 | 12:25 PM
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Default Attempting to replace multiple AC parts on my own

I got a couple of quotes on the possible need to replace multiple AC parts on a 2007 Saturn Ion-2 2.2. I was thinking of attempting this job myself. I've done quite a few things myself and feel this wouldn't be so hard. I already purchased a compressor and will get a new condenser (drier/receiver affixed), expansion valve, and may a new suction & discharge line assembly, if necessary.

I will have a professional at a shop, maybe diagnose it and discharge the system, if needed. He quoted me $1600 parts and labor. I've replaced the starter on this car and have also had to remove the serpentine belt a few times to do other things so I know what I'm dealing with as far as the compressor. Also, I replaced the radiator, which is literally right up against the condenser. The expansion valve might be challenging, but if the few videos I watched are somewhat accurate, I think I can do it. Don't think I have to remove the whole dashboard.

Any advice anyone here can give me or anyone with experience can share. Hopefully, someone here has taken on this same task on this same year make and model. Anything you wouldn't replace due to it not being necessary. All the parts I've found are pretty inexpensive, so far. Is it necessary to replace multiple parts when replacing the compressor? Or could evacuating/flushing play the same roll?

Would really appreciate some pointers. So desperately wanna knock this out myself. Am I in over my head?

Thanks
 
Old Jul 21, 2025 | 11:11 PM
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Check the stickies in the ion and S Series sections.
Somebody recently did their own system and was kind enough to create a comprehensive DIY guide.
 
Old Jul 26, 2025 | 03:41 AM
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Default Don’t forget the dye

The instructions from the pinned comment in the S Series category that @derf recommended didn’t list dye as a [recommended] part (I could’ve missed it). You’ll need the dye to locate any leaks using a black light. You can get R134a refrigerant with dye in it or as a separate liquid that you add directly into the compressor.

if you are borrowing a manifold gauge set from Autozone, be aware it may not function properly. I ran into this issue while pulling a vacuum on my ac system last week after replacing the compressor. Also, you’ll want to pull the vacuum long enough to remove any moisture, 45-60 minutes should be plenty if it holds.

Richpin06a on YouTube has several videos working on various Saturn models that have helped me DIY in addition to this forum.

Good luck!
 
Old Aug 11, 2025 | 11:32 PM
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@Hagatha

Thanks. I have watched several of Richpin06a for years.

How did you pull a vacuum? You did it yourself? What equipment do you have? I was thinking of getting one of those manifold gauge set kits that come with a vacuum pump from Amazon. Wanna do as much as I can on my own. Leave evac and recharged to the pros.

Thanks again
 

Last edited by derf; Aug 12, 2025 at 12:18 AM.
Old Aug 12, 2025 | 12:22 AM
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Vacuum pump pulls the vacuum. You buy one
If your system is not empty, you'll need to evacuate the remaining refrigerant and oil. You will create a vacuum to pull it out but you do not want it going through the pump innards. Professional mechanics have a setup that recovers what is left in your system and stores it for reuse. Make sure your gauge set can read vacuum as well as positive pressure, as you need to be sure that the system can hold a vacuum of x amount for y time.
 
Old Aug 17, 2025 | 07:27 PM
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Thanks for the tip. I just tried to pull a vacuum, and it's not even drawing down to the -1 on the low side gauge. I guess there is too big of a leak that eventually happened. I see a few people here and there online suggesting pressure testing the system with nitrogen. Is this the only way? I'm assuming o won't be able to get a hold of any nitrogen tanks or whatever. I see compressed at os advised against becauseofmoisture, but if i'm going to pull a vacuum at some point, before recharging for sure, does it even matter. I can't tell where the leak might ne at. There wasn't/isn't anything in the system. The manifold gauge was 0 on both high and low from the gate. Any advice?

Thanks
 
Old Aug 18, 2025 | 05:53 AM
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honestly if you’re letting the pros evac and recharge doing the labor yourself is the easy part, take it in for evac, do the job and take it back in for recharge, if your skilled in the slightest bit to take some nuts and bolts out when replacing the compressor, condenser and other components it should be a breeze, shouldn’t have issues if it’s been evacuated and they should be pulling a vaccum on your system as procedure before recharging the system! as far as the job itself it’s pretty straightforward hope that helps!
 
Old Aug 18, 2025 | 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by That1dude
Thanks for the tip. I just tried to pull a vacuum, and it's not even drawing down to the -1 on the low side gauge. I guess there is too big of a leak that eventually happened. I see a few people here and there online suggesting pressure testing the system with nitrogen. Is this the only way? I'm assuming o won't be able to get a hold of any nitrogen tanks or whatever. I see compressed at os advised against becauseofmoisture, but if i'm going to pull a vacuum at some point, before recharging for sure, does it even matter. I can't tell where the leak might ne at. There wasn't/isn't anything in the system. The manifold gauge was 0 on both high and low from the gate. Any advice?

Thanks
What have you done so far? you should only pull a vaccum on the system when it is empty to see if there is a leak. have you evacuated the refrigerant
 
Old Aug 18, 2025 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by badecotec
What have you done so far? you should only pull a vaccum on the system when it is empty to see if there is a leak. have you evacuated the refrigerant
It was empty. I checked at both high and low side Schrader valves, used a manifold gauge to check pressure (high and low both read 0), and also removed both lines from the condenser and nothing came out at all.so, I think it's safe to say the system is empty. Should I have gotten it evacuated any way? The only thing I've done is try to pull a vacuum. I was thinking of adding a can of refrigerant that has dye in it to the system to see if I can find out where the leak is, as I'm sure there is one Thanks
 
Old Aug 28, 2025 | 02:49 PM
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I finally found the leak that has been causing a hissing sound. I attempted to pull a vacuum, and it wouldn't hold, straight back to 0 after turning the pump off. I attempted to add a can of refrigerant with dye to see if I could find a leak, and I at least got the readings on the gauges to go up a little. I then started to hear a hissing sound I heard last year when trying to recharge on my own. I'm sure that's when the hissing initially started. There had to have been a leak before that tho and that's why i was trying to recharge. At that time, the ac worked for months and then would only work for an hour or so before blowing warm air. Let the car sit from an hour to as long as overnight, and the ac would be back blowing cold for an hour or so again before going back to warm, but that's another story.

So I got under my car and rubbed around on the compressor and hoses and found there was a tear on one of the hoses that came out of the condenser to the compressor. Happy I found it! I initially thought it was near the firewall and could have possibly been the evaporator core.

Anyway, what could be the reason I only feel air when placing my hand against the torn part of the hose? Shouldn't it be leaking with refrigerant? When I point the black light at it, I can see it glowing green but only on the inside of the hose, on the mesh/net looking part. None leaking on the outside. So, where's the refrigerant going? Or am I missing something or not understanding something about how this works? Maybe me manually pouring the dye in through the low side hose on the manifold gauge has something to do with it? What's the reason for only air if refrigerant is supposed to leak in the form of liquid/oil?

Thanks

Edit: The hissing sound only last but so long. Maybe like a minute before it stops from refrigerant running out, so I had to move fast. Glad I found it on the second try since I only had purchased two cans
 

Last edited by That1dude; Aug 28, 2025 at 08:33 PM.

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