Attempting to replace multiple AC parts on my own

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Old Aug 28, 2025 | 05:03 PM
  #11  
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Uncompressed r134a refrigerant at ambient temperature is a gas not a liquid. So the air you were feeling leaking was in fact refrigerant in gas form. When everything is working properly, the compressor compresses the gas and it passes through the thermal expansion valve and is compressed from a gas to a liquid the temperature of which is extremely low. The liquid gets circulated to the evaporator where the air is blown across it, cooling the air. This warms the refrigerant generally back to a gaseous state. It then goes through the condenser where the wind across it and the fan extract a significant amount of heat. It then goes back to the compressor still as a gas and the compressor compresses it..... And the cycle repeats
 
Old Aug 28, 2025 | 08:14 PM
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That system may have been low on oil. We look for evidence of oil to find a leak. There should be oil grime around that area.
BTW You always want to evac the system before filling.
 
Old Aug 28, 2025 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by grcauto8453
That system may have been low on oil. We look for evidence of oil to find a leak. There should be oil grime around that area.
BTW You always want to evac the system before filling.
There was some kind of oil but not near, or at least close enough to the torn part of the hose. I'm not sure but I think it's oil from a leak I have from the engine somewhere.

Evac even if the system was already empty? i checked both high and low service ports and even removed both lines from the condenser and nothing came out at all. Gauges on the manifold bot read 0 as well. I think any refrigerant I put in it leaks out from that hose
 
Old Aug 28, 2025 | 11:29 PM
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After you make the repair it is necessary to evacuate to remove the air and moisure from the system. Then you shut off the vacuum pump and close the guage valves to verify the system holds a vacuum before recharging.
 
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg97SW2
After you make the repair it is necessary to evacuate to remove the air and moisure from the system. Then you shut off the vacuum pump and close the guage valves to verify the system holds a vacuum before recharging.
I'm assuming you're referring to pulling a vacuum when you say evacuate, right?
 
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 12:36 AM
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Yes, that is what I meant.
 
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 07:04 AM
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My response assumed you were able to get the r134a and oil into the system and circulating. Trying to pull a vacuum and bring unable to is what led you to add the refrigerant and dye. Depending on the location of the leak relative to the low side port, as soon as you open the refrigerant can, for it to get into the system, it needs to displace air that's already in the line. The air is being removed through the leak as you are adding refrigerant with dye. I assumed that since you saw dye on the inside of the damaged line that you had successfully gotten some of the refrigerant into the system. However, my statement that what was escaping was r 134a and r 134a only was incorrect. I believe it was a mix of r134a and air. But either way, whatever refrigerant you had added for testing leaked out through the large leak.
 
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 08:04 AM
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@derf

That was my assumption. I purchased all the parts I will replace. Condenser, compressor, expansion valve, radiator, and that hide that's damaged. I was waiting on a seal/gasket kit to arrive which arrives today. I'll replace that then pull a vacuum and hopefully it'll hold. I'll update later

Thanks!
 
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 03:31 PM
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Hey, quick question. Is it possible that there is still some refrigerant in the system somewhere, even with it leaking out in the form of gas out of the hose that goes into the condenser, like in my case? Like, could there be some sitting in the compressor still, or maybe the evaporator? Or does it all leak out once there's a leak somewhere no matter what?

Thanks
 
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 09:28 PM
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The system usually drains completely when there is a leak. After repairing any leaks the first test is a vacuum test. If it holds vacuum then proceed to a pressure test. I have seen many pass a vacuum test but still leak under pressure. I still struggle with a/c repairs at times.
 



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