Hello all! I looked up most of the info but was wondering if there's any tools in particular y'all would recommend?

 

Metric Deep socket and regular depth socket set (18mm and 16 ring a bell for the LCAs.

If you are replacing the front sway bar, replace the bushings that hold it in the front of the car as well. Don't know if they are still available on Amazon but that is where I got a few pairs of GM OEM bushings.
You cannot tell visually that they are done with, but they are compressed with no springback left. The last time I went to change my LCA's, it was physically impossible to get the swaybar, the LCA to frame bolt, and the ball joint lined up and in ant the same time..

The issue is that when those front mounts compress, the sway bar shifts backward on the car, and dueto the geometry, THe LCA's don't fit. MAke sure to mark the sway bar bushing mounts so they go back in the same place.
When you go to reassemble, put the sway bar back in but don't torque it down all the way. This leaves you ample play to get both LCA's in THEN start torquing down. The sway bar should end up centered so there is no uneven stress on it from side to side.

No idea why you want to replace this.

If you're referring to the rear sway bar, I've never replaced one. But you will likely destroy the sway bar end links trying to remove the fasteners. Get under the car and look at them. They may have changed the design but the oem ones for the 1st and 2nd gen it was easier to just cut them off. Moog makes some nice ones. Can regrease them.

Shocks: If they are still under the rear window, you'll be building a contraption of extensions, ujoints, wobble adapters, and wobble sockets as there is no room to work. Maybe a pass through thin ratchet would work. Damn, wish I thought of that 15 years ago.)

Do NOT use Monroe mounting hardware, don't replace the rear bumps stops, they are fine, probably get new OEM GM front strut mounts, DEFINITELTLY get new bearings which will disintegrate and throw ball bearings all over your garage, , use a torque wrench or you WILL twist the studs right off.

Thart's it for now

 

I had to replace the sway bar bc it broke from the control arm when I hit a curb unfortunately. Really appreciate your advice and was able to get the sway bar along with front quickstruts (what I meant to say before, sorry) installed in addition to new control arms. The sway bar was by far the hardest part and took the longest. Luckily I had a Haynes manual in addition to your advice. Apparently you have to put one of the wheels on when you are redoing the sway bar, mainly bc of the amount of pressure it requires to put the control arm back in once it's attached to the sway bar. I'll try to write a bit more later.

 

I know this is an older post but If anybody else is replacing control arms sway bar stuff there a video by Richpin on YouTube shows this type of repair or replacement was pretty interesting on procedure. I'm planning on doing mine soon and going to use his method seemed pretty straightforward.

 

Richpin is the go to guy on youtube for Saturn repairs. I used several of his videos over the years. Have fun with that project, Tim.

 

Thx, It should be a piece of cake.

 

I wish I had a dollar for every time those 7 words have bitten me in the ****! LOL

 

A big prybar a BFH, and a giant Impact,,,,,,,,,what could go wrong?

 

Haaaaaah! You can't go wrong with a BFH. I've been using one for over 45 years. A fire wrench comes in handy from time to time too!