Loosing oil problem
#1
06-14-2010, 06:14 AM
Loosing oil problem
Ok here is the problem i am having with my 01 sc1. The car is using 2 to 3 quarts of oil between oil changes. Its not leaking on the ground its not burning it and there is no oil in the coolant. what could posable be the problem i am out of ideas.
#2
06-14-2010, 04:07 PM
Valve guides is my best bet. Check your computer readout - bet you find some stored codes for the O2 sensors
#4
06-14-2010, 05:48 PM
Oil usage of the S series seems to be a common claim. I have seen it, although mine does not. Opinions run the amuck as to why! I have never been able to prove or personally observe a valid reason for it. My personal opinion is the factory recommended oil light weight oil is too light leading to running hot and oil consumption. I live in the dessert, I have see the running hot. My solution to this is to use a summer or high heat weight oil such as a 20 W 50 and have since new and have had no problems. I am not concerned with the ultimate in fuel mileage which is the intent of the lightest possible oil recommendation.
Many people have observed the oil rings carboned up and stuck when an engine is diss-assembled. Makes sense to me.
I suspect valve guides BUT a classic symptom is puff of smoke when starting. Never seen it. AND
I have seen the consumption decrease or dissappear when an oil additive such as Z-MAX is used which may free up the oil rings. You can try, won't hurt. High mileage, excessive heat all = oil consumption. Standard backyard fix, run heavier weight oil to decrease consumption. It has worked for me.
If something is worn out, nothing short of a rebuild is going to fix it permantly. As long as you can feed it oil and not have a problem, oil is cheap.
Many people have observed the oil rings carboned up and stuck when an engine is diss-assembled. Makes sense to me.
I suspect valve guides BUT a classic symptom is puff of smoke when starting. Never seen it. AND
I have seen the consumption decrease or dissappear when an oil additive such as Z-MAX is used which may free up the oil rings. You can try, won't hurt. High mileage, excessive heat all = oil consumption. Standard backyard fix, run heavier weight oil to decrease consumption. It has worked for me.
If something is worn out, nothing short of a rebuild is going to fix it permantly. As long as you can feed it oil and not have a problem, oil is cheap.
#7
01-23-2011, 04:45 PM
Well -- 60W oil seems a bit extreme. Valve guides are part of a head rebuild process.
First step would be a compression test on the cylinders, to see if there's an issue with the piston rings. A treatment with an additive product such as Z-MAX might help, but like UnclJohn said above -- feed it a quart every 1000 miles or so ... that's the least expensive option ........
First step would be a compression test on the cylinders, to see if there's an issue with the piston rings. A treatment with an additive product such as Z-MAX might help, but like UnclJohn said above -- feed it a quart every 1000 miles or so ... that's the least expensive option ........
#8
01-24-2011, 09:14 AM
I'm not on another automotive forum. I can't speak for what is happening with cars that have lasted past the warrentee period from other manufacturers other than AMC which is out of business and my own personal drivers.
I have had a Mitsubishi that went 300,000 miles with zero problems other than tires and brakes. If you don't count the head gasket that blew at 250,000 miles and a bunch of Chrysler products either new or used that non-consumed oil except my Junk Yard Dodge Carvan that I bought running from a junk yard with working A/C with 300,000 on the clock. Never did determine if it burned oil, it leaked it out the front main seal to the tune of a quart/per tank of gas.
My exeperiance with 90's and early 2000 cars where the manufacturer put in the and recommended the lightest possible oil they could get away with for the purpose of the most possible gasoline mileage and no reguard for engine reliability was through fleet cars I was responcible for at a company I worked at and my own.
For my own, personally thinking the policy of light oil = best gasoline mileage, seemed stupid at face value so I used the oil weight I considered best for the car, climate and usage at the time, and done most of my life.
As I lived then and still do, in the south west where 100+ temperatures were the norm and something below freezing was an occaisional trip to a skee resort, 20W50 fit the bill. I drive them hard and high mileage. My street racers demanded oil of that weight, my daily drivers lived on it and the oil weight vs temperature charts approved of it.
And my drivers when I backed them into a corner and forced them to do it on their company cars basically all told me that their cars quit running hot.
A bunch of years of doing the same and experiances at the time told me it worked.
Now is later, GM and others got pissy about using light weight oil, the buying public quit careing.
Now our Saturns are consuming oil when they get high mileage. There has to be a reason and it is not the design. Mine does not use a drop. It runs fine, has proven to be reliable and a fun car to own. I have restorated it once, it looks almost new, I just noticed the clear coat I painted 3 years ago is letting go on the roof and I think I will re-clear coat it.
I would have bought a second one if the designers had not decided what I needed with a coupe was more doors.
Which in my opinioned uglied the car up and did nothing for it except make me not want to buy one. So I kept the one I had.
When I wanted a new Van I went to the Saturn Dealer and found that the Saturn Van was a rebadged Chevy and I could buy a Chrysler with stow and go interior at 2/3 the price. So much for fixed price Saturn phylosophy.
I'm not sure what I am going to do when my Saturn quits. I like it. I am not sure I am going to worry about it. I like the new Caddy coupe. A couple of years old will be a good car and priced right.
And when I do, I will do as I have done in the past, change the oil to 20W50 like everything else I own including my Chrysler bought new and not worry about oil mileage.
As far as the problems now on 10+ year old Saturns and maybe many other cars.
As stated before, some people have found oil rings carboned and stuck in the grooves in the pistons. As far as I am concerned, point the finger at light weight oil used since new. And if rebuilding is not a viable solution because that is the only true way of getting the job done, try running a steady diet of Z max and see if the oil rings will work free. After changine to a heavier weight oil hopefully to forstall further problems. 10W40 in colder climates, 10W30 in the snow belt, this time of year.
If there is no other solution, feed it oil and watch the usage it. Oil is cheap. That used to be the way to deal with things before engineers figured out how to make engines last and oil companies made good oil
and then marketing felt they knew how to make and sell cars.
I have had a Mitsubishi that went 300,000 miles with zero problems other than tires and brakes. If you don't count the head gasket that blew at 250,000 miles and a bunch of Chrysler products either new or used that non-consumed oil except my Junk Yard Dodge Carvan that I bought running from a junk yard with working A/C with 300,000 on the clock. Never did determine if it burned oil, it leaked it out the front main seal to the tune of a quart/per tank of gas.
My exeperiance with 90's and early 2000 cars where the manufacturer put in the and recommended the lightest possible oil they could get away with for the purpose of the most possible gasoline mileage and no reguard for engine reliability was through fleet cars I was responcible for at a company I worked at and my own.
For my own, personally thinking the policy of light oil = best gasoline mileage, seemed stupid at face value so I used the oil weight I considered best for the car, climate and usage at the time, and done most of my life.
As I lived then and still do, in the south west where 100+ temperatures were the norm and something below freezing was an occaisional trip to a skee resort, 20W50 fit the bill. I drive them hard and high mileage. My street racers demanded oil of that weight, my daily drivers lived on it and the oil weight vs temperature charts approved of it.
And my drivers when I backed them into a corner and forced them to do it on their company cars basically all told me that their cars quit running hot.
A bunch of years of doing the same and experiances at the time told me it worked.
Now is later, GM and others got pissy about using light weight oil, the buying public quit careing.
Now our Saturns are consuming oil when they get high mileage. There has to be a reason and it is not the design. Mine does not use a drop. It runs fine, has proven to be reliable and a fun car to own. I have restorated it once, it looks almost new, I just noticed the clear coat I painted 3 years ago is letting go on the roof and I think I will re-clear coat it.
I would have bought a second one if the designers had not decided what I needed with a coupe was more doors.
Which in my opinioned uglied the car up and did nothing for it except make me not want to buy one. So I kept the one I had.
When I wanted a new Van I went to the Saturn Dealer and found that the Saturn Van was a rebadged Chevy and I could buy a Chrysler with stow and go interior at 2/3 the price. So much for fixed price Saturn phylosophy.
I'm not sure what I am going to do when my Saturn quits. I like it. I am not sure I am going to worry about it. I like the new Caddy coupe. A couple of years old will be a good car and priced right.
And when I do, I will do as I have done in the past, change the oil to 20W50 like everything else I own including my Chrysler bought new and not worry about oil mileage.
As far as the problems now on 10+ year old Saturns and maybe many other cars.
As stated before, some people have found oil rings carboned and stuck in the grooves in the pistons. As far as I am concerned, point the finger at light weight oil used since new. And if rebuilding is not a viable solution because that is the only true way of getting the job done, try running a steady diet of Z max and see if the oil rings will work free. After changine to a heavier weight oil hopefully to forstall further problems. 10W40 in colder climates, 10W30 in the snow belt, this time of year.
If there is no other solution, feed it oil and watch the usage it. Oil is cheap. That used to be the way to deal with things before engineers figured out how to make engines last and oil companies made good oil
and then marketing felt they knew how to make and sell cars.
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