a performed (thank you)
a1 not addressed
a2 not addressed
a3 not addressed

e not performed

b Coils are fine does not indicate whether you performed the recommended test or are assuming they are good. Which was it?

d Not performed
c Performed (thank you) . My apologies. F5 is the position for 1st gen S cars; F2 is for 3rd gen.
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By the way, what plugs did you put in, gapped at what? I missed that... Old fashioned NGK coppers (search forum for SOHC version) are what you need to run.
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It is EXTREMELY difficult to assist in the diag of your vehicle if you are not willing to perform the suggested tests to rule out major portions of the vehicle as the problem.

You came to us for help with solving your Saturn issues, but you seem unwilling to move forward very far with the diagnostic steps suggested.

If I had to guess:
1) the IPBATT 12V is not getting to the inside fuse panel and therefore nothing there works at all, including the fuel pump relay
2) if the dash idiot light fuse is getting 12V (or maybe 5, I can't remember), then it is likely a BCM issue.
3) Security system. If BCM is messed, security signal from IGN LIKELY never gets to the PCM and car will never start. Passlock II can be bypassed but not very easily.

And so concludes my contribution to this thread. My thoughts are listed above.

Suggesting things you are unwilling to do for whatever reason is a waste of time for me to type and a waste of time for everyone to read.

 

New to the Forum and really appreciate any assistance. I'm following this thread and "Saturn will not start" thread. We have a 2002 SC 3 door w/108K miles. We're snow birds and leave the SC garaged in Florida. It ran fine when we left in May 2019 but in Feb 2020 it's just cranking and will not start - we never had this problem. Before I detail symptoms and trouble shooting so far, I wanted to provide any OBD error codes using the 'paper clip' method by jumping 8 and 16. BUT the only ports active are 2,4,5,16 - if port 1 is top left and 16 bottom right.

What do you suggest?
Thanks!

 

Paperclip method only works up to 1995 OBD1 vehicles. To loan a tool from AutoZone or similar for a code reader. Postcodes as pxxxx where x is a number. Not the description of the code just the code.

Is your car parked anywhere where critters can get to it? Rube knows what I'm thinking

 

Well, I called AutoZone and Advanced they won'l loan or rent and I'm hesitant to buy. The car is garaged and little geckos run around but that's about it. I need to step away from this for a little then I can send symptoms i.e. gas gauge goes negative after I put 4 gal in. As always, thanks.

 

Wal-Mart sells a code reader for like $20

Nothing fancy, but it'll give you the basic

 

Wow, I'll buy one, I thought they were expensive. I'll post with results hopefully today.

 

Where are you Doug? I have an OBDII code reader. I doubt you're anywhere near where I am, though. First things I'd check is for a blockage in the air box caused by nesting critters. If that's clear, I'd remove a spark plug and check for spark. If that's okay, I'd try a 2 second shot of starting fluid in the intake and see if it fires. If so, you'll know it's a fuel related problem. All GM products after 1996 have to use a code scanner. The paper clip won't work on them.

 

Went to Harbor Freight and bought a Cen-Tec model 64981. It would not link. Spoke with tech support and they said the unit will not link unless the check engine light is ‘on’. It’s not, so I can’t get codes with this unit. Are there other OBD’s that will?

Thanks!

 

That sounds bogus as hell

A code reader shut always link if it can read the OBD2 protocol that the vehicle is using to communicate the diagnostics port.

If what they said was true oh, you would never be able to read a car to verify it had no codes. Unless this is some bizarre mutated version of a code reader but I doubt it.

If the service engine soon light is off, or shall I say not on, the reading should come back with no codes.

Did you turn the key to the on position and have the dash lights lit up before you plugged the reader into the port? Vehicle power must be on first so that the PCM can power up and be ready to receive the request from the reader

 

OK guess I got the runaround from Cen-tech. I plugged the unit into our '06 Acura MDX and it linked fine. Still not linking to the SC. The instructions specifically state Caution do not plug the unit in with the ignition on. Also, the "service" and "service soon" are both lit, this car doesn't have "check engine". I'll see if I can get better tech support from Cen-tech and report back. I'm ready to return this unit.

In the meantime this seems to be a fuel pump/electrical issue. I did check the air intake and it's clear. With the key 'on' i don't hear the fuel pump. The gas gauge is on E and actually goes a bit more negative.when turning key 'on'. I would never store the car for months with out gas and always put Sta-Bil in. But just to be sure I put 4 gal in with no change. The 'gas pump' light stays on with the key on. So far trouble shooting limited to fuses:

Under Hood – all 30A fuses are good – including IP Batt
Inst Panel – Fuel Pump – 10A good, Fuel Pump Relay (12193602) didn’t know how to test this so I swapped with the same (12193602) HVAC relay. No change.

I am having a battery problem - it's not holding a charge and know I need a new one. I keep having to charge it to 70-80% and overnight it drops to 30-40% with nothing 'on'. In FL with hot weather I've found contacts get corroded quickly, i.e., contacts for the power windows. Thinking the ECM may be 'hung-up' I charged the battery to 80% disconnected it and reconnected hoping something would change, it did not.

A quick review - the car ran fine when we left and now it just cranks. The odds of a fuel pump failure seem low. I saw a you tube checking fuel pump voltage in the trunk but not sure if this is valid.

As always, I'm so impressed and thankful that you help me and many others solve Saturn problems. Hats off!

I have to ask.....my cousin Chuck had a good friend they called Derf.....is it possible?