Sorry been working over time. I tried the paper clip trick and got bothing because the dashboard is not working bo lights or gauges are working. And no i dont have spark what do i do now?

 

Since you have no spark, start with the basics. Check your battery cables for good, clean connections. If you're satisfied with that, then you might try replacing the coil and see if it sparks. If not, it could be an ECM problem. I long for the old days of four barrel Carter AFB's and distributors with points and condensers. I could usually figure those out pretty quickly. Damn computers are taking over the world!

 

Well i did change the ignition module already and wires and the coil packs i did look at the battery connection and it looks good. How can i get the ECM tested to see if thats the problem?

 

I don't have a clue how to get one tested. Perhaps derf has some information. Or SOMEONE else? Anyone know how to help her out here? I'm one of the old school guys and if I suspect an ECM is bad, I'm going to the junkyard and grabbing another one. That's just me.

 

But i can take any ECM out of another saturn? Cuz i do have a parts saturn that has just a blown motor that i have been using for parts.

 

As long as it's the same model. I once took an ECU from a 4-door Mitsubishi Diamante and put it in my Diamante Wagon, even though everyone I talked to told me it wouldn't work. Hell, it fit right in and everything worked great. Never missed a beat and started right up after I installed it and reconnected the battery cables. Sometimes I wish I still had it, even though the 3.0 is a pain in the *** to work on. If you've got the same one, I'd suggest you give it a try. What do you have to lose at this point in the game? Neither one runs anyway. And on the no dash lights, how about swapping the instrument clusters?

 

Well the thing with the dashlights i think has something to do with the ECM because not even the fuel pump is coming on so i believe its all connected. So i will give a swap to the ECM when i get a chance. Thank you for all your help i appreciate it alot.

 

2000 and up s cars had a BCM (Body Control Module). That is probably the issue w the dash being messed up, the diag port not working.

a) get batt load tested for free at autozone or similar.

a1)As for the CPS -- how did you test it and what were the results? I believe that interfaces directly to the PCM. Test it INSTALLED. If there is an internal issue it may be flaking out when installed but not when pulled. PITA I know.

The CPS can be within Resistance spec but if it is putting out a distorted signal that the PCM cannot understand, that counts as no signal and

BAD CPS=No SPARK and KILLS FUEL INJECTORS

If you have no spark:

a2) remove the battery terminals, clean the ends of the cables and check for corrosion up the pos cable by cutting the red insulation back a bit. If the cable end is crunchy, replace the cable.

Be sure to clean the surface that the ground wire connects to on the chassis. Poor ground = a big electronic confused mess.

Measure the battery V at rest (cold). should be about 12.6 V
Measure the battery V while cranking and report back.
Have you tried jumpstarting it? Do you get any dash lights when hooked up to jump start?

a3) Are ICM and coils new or used?

b) Coil test: At night pull all plug wires from the coil towers (LABEL THEM FIRST).

Crank engine. You should see a nice arc across the two terminals of each coil pack, alternating between each coil pack.

If you do not see the arcing, the problem is further back in the ignition system.

Are the ICM and coils new or junkyard/used parts? Does the ICM have the identical connections as the one you removed? They are not all interchangeable.

c) Does the chime go off when you leave your headlights on and remove the key?
Does the dome light work? How about the cigarette lighter?

I ask because the power for those three comes from the same distribution point on the interior fuse panel as the fuel pump. Usually referred to as the "F5" issue. Heavy continuous usage of the lighter as a source for phone chargers e.g. overheats the terminals at the junction of these wires and can lead to intermittent or no fuel pump operation.

d) I don't remember where the BCM fuse is, but if it is in the inside fuse panel, it is possible that the 12V that comes straight from the underhood junction box labeled IP BATT is not getting to the interior panel, thud disabling all fused circuits controlled there. Find the IP BATT wire under the hood so you know what color it is coming into the inst panel junct box. with the key in the ON position, measure the IP BATT voltage vs CHASSIS ground -- if it is not battery voltage you have found part of the problem.

e) Passlock II security came to saturn in 2000, so the "security light" status questions are relevant here. The security system may have triggered--problem is you cant see the security light on the dash -- or can you? If so, what state is it in before you get in the car, and what state is it in when you crank the vehicle (Solid or blinking)?

There is a passlock II relearn procedure but you will need to have the battery connected to a charger -- which in your case is likely another idling vehicle hooked up jumpstart style. Turn the radio off.

Here's the link -- I know you can't go by the light status necessarily.
Follow the Passlock II section to the letter or it will not work. Do not remove the key from the ignition during the relearn.

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Sorry -- that was train of thought--how my mind works. Not in the right order.

Correct order to check is:
a0 get batt load tested for free at autozone or similar. doesn't matter if it is new.
a1 remeasure resistance of CPS while installed

a2 (remove clean inspect battery terminals, cables, and chassis ground points, check batt V reconnected, cold and cranking, jumpstart attempt)

a3 pls answer

e) Security system relearn.
Note that the security system is embedded within the BCM and therefore if this is a BCM problem the car will NEVER start without replacing the BCM as the key info is sensed by the ignition switch, sent to the PCM via the BCM.

b) coil test
d) Check for IP BATT V getting to IPJB (Instr Panel Junct box)
c) F5 issue (more rare but can and does happen)

I'd back off on the PCM swapping until we see if we can squeeze some more diagnostic info out of this puppy and determine what works, what doesn't, what is talking to what , and what is not talking to what.

For the record, my intuition says battery, security/BCM, wiring

what year and model are is the blown engine car?

 

So i had both my batteries tested they are good. Coil is good. I dont know what passcode is because i dont think this car has security i believe previous owners disengaged it i changed the cps when i got the car because thats what my ex believed it was in the first place i have changed all fuses and relays that were in both the fuse box under the hood and in the car i even checked the f2 fuse issue and its perfect not burnt up or shorted out i dont have an f5 on this car and i have no clue what the bcm looks like or where to even look for it

 

Maybe this link will help. I hope so. Read thru the entire thing. He's pointed out various pins and colors that may help you figure out what's going on with it.

https://www.saturnforum.com/forum/sa...l-module-1813/